How deep is the body on this beauty?
AHG octave mando build
- Thread starter AcornHouse
- Start date
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Not including the arch of the top, a little over 3-1/2". Customer requested a deep body.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Well that took more work than I'd thought.
After I'd typed my previous post, I knew the band saw wasn't going to work because of the angle. So after drilling a hole I got to work with the coping saw, threading the blade through the hole I'd drilled. All well and good until I reached the side cuts and found that because of the flex in the blade, there was still some in the middle that was attached.
I have a keyhole saw but it's blade was far thicker than the coping saw blade.
Break out the rip dozuki to cut a couple more side cuts a little further in, hoping to reach past the area of flex. Even with those it required a bit of chisel levering to break the last tenacious fibers and the core finally popped out.
Then I could get the keyhole saw to get through the side bits still attached. Cleanup should be a lot easier, but there sure is nothing weak about this mahogany (Honduran, of course).
After I'd typed my previous post, I knew the band saw wasn't going to work because of the angle. So after drilling a hole I got to work with the coping saw, threading the blade through the hole I'd drilled. All well and good until I reached the side cuts and found that because of the flex in the blade, there was still some in the middle that was attached.
I have a keyhole saw but it's blade was far thicker than the coping saw blade.
Break out the rip dozuki to cut a couple more side cuts a little further in, hoping to reach past the area of flex. Even with those it required a bit of chisel levering to break the last tenacious fibers and the core finally popped out.
Then I could get the keyhole saw to get through the side bits still attached. Cleanup should be a lot easier, but there sure is nothing weak about this mahogany (Honduran, of course).
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
It’s nice to have options. Doable with far fewer tools, I’m sure.
I like the idea of a deep body on a mando once the scale length gets over 16" or so.
Looking good, Chris!
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AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Case in point for tool choice. I used one of my Japanese chisels with a mallet to get the bulk from the backside, then my favorite old Stanley paring chisel (NEVER with a mallet) to finish up with light shavings.
Next comes the tedious process of getting the sides to mate with the neck. But that involves some candlelit dinners, romantic music, and a couple of bottles of bubbly.
Next comes the tedious process of getting the sides to mate with the neck. But that involves some candlelit dinners, romantic music, and a couple of bottles of bubbly.
GGJaguar
Reverential Member
Neck-body joints are so needy.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Worse than pandas.
merlin6666
Senior Member
This is a long thread and the question may have been asked already... but what is an "octave mandolin" i.e. how does it relate to mandola or mandocello?
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
It’s between the mandola and mandocello. There’s no standard on them, so scale length varies; this one will have a 22” scale length. They are tuned one octave lower than the mandolin, G-D-A-E.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Working on getting the neck fitted. Still needs to come down a few millimeters. Not going to rush it; easier to take wood off than put it back.
After it's fitted and glued in, a couple of dowels are inserted from below to lock it in place for all eternity. (Or until someone takes the back off and drills them out.)
After it's fitted and glued in, a couple of dowels are inserted from below to lock it in place for all eternity. (Or until someone takes the back off and drills them out.)
GGJaguar
Reverential Member
Will the dowels be visible? If not, how would a Luthier of the Future™ know how it's constructed to be able to remove the neck?
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
The traditional mandolin dovetail joint has part of the neck on top of the sides.
This V-joint, as developed by Siminoff, has the sides “over” the neck, so to speak. Careful close examination should reveal that.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
One of the big challenges at this stage, aside from the overall concern of keeping things lined up in all directions, is how to hold the body securely while you file or chisel. The luthiery vise is acceptable, but not perfect. It holds it 95% secure so a little bit of caution is called far.
No, I don't know a perfect solution.
No, I don't know a perfect solution.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Getting closer and closer. The fit is pretty good, just need to go down another millimeter or so. My tool of choice is this single cut file I got at a woodworking conference years ago. I'm not even sure what the specific pattern is called but it does a great job of leaving a flat surface.
Edging ever closer to my goal.
Edging ever closer to my goal.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Never! Those are authentic maker’s marks and must be preserved for posterity!Don't forget to erase the pencil marks.
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