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Both the The Mark 2 and Mark 3 write-ups in that catalog specifically say "mosaic inlay"; however, this only reminds me that we've seen old specs in catalogs before. So there's yet another variable as to when the decals were actually introduced, since it looks like the "evidence pics" show they did in fact stray from Mr Greco's ideals by the late '70's.The catalog has some ambiguity in my opinion about whether the statement applied to the entire Mark line and it was also a 1976 catalog so something may have changed.
Yeah, I'm mortified.....is nothing sacred anymore?See Sal's message above...
Many plastics would be durable enough to hold up even at thicknesses less than a sheet of copier paper: PVC's and polypropylenes in particular, if it's actually a pressure-sensitive adhesive decal, which I'm beginning to suspect it is.
I think that's inlay. When blown up, the edges of the top around the circumference show the tell-tale signs of routed edges among other details, but still, need a better close-up to be sure.
I didn't say (or mean to imply) Greco did the inlays himself, just that as an old school craftsman he was an expert at it, and I didn't believe he'd build (or supervise) building a guitar with decals. Pg 134 of the Guild Guitar Book says: ..."conform proudly to the Classic tradition in every detail." (My emphasis, attributed to a '62 catalog and inlaid rosette still explicitly stated for the 2,3, & 4 models in the '76 catalog linked in the OP)I think the argument about Carlo Greco doing fancy rosette handwork here on the Marks is not borne out by reality.
So there's yet another variable as to when the decals were actually introduced, since it looks like the "evidence pics" show they did in fact stray from Mr Greco's ideals by the late '70's.
I think they did use marquetry on all Mark models at first (after all they date back to '61) and then cheaped out at some later point, but not on the high-enders.
Another famous crash-and-burn on my part.Nope and nope. The decals were on the Mark I and Mark II models from the start. My Mark II example above is a '63.
In hopes to help the question at hand I've taken a more hi-resolution photo of the rosette of my 1977 Mark II, which is a different rosette from the ones immediately above. Its a 5 MB photo so to assist in getting to the image I have it at the bottom of my story about my first public performance, and click on the thumbnail for the hi-res copy to see a much better detailed viewing. If I can be taught of a way to display a photo inside a post with a hyperlink to the hi-res copy rather than my unwieldy way described, I'd appreciate it.
I knew there was a way, I just needed a guide, said the blind man to his deaf son.In the row of editing icons there is a rectangle that is supposed to make you think of a picture. Press it and you can choose to link to an image hosted elsewhere or upload an image from your device to LTG.
One question, if I may. It is the 5.5MB hi-res file is this large: 3207 x 2860, which will show the detail I intend to offer for evaluation, and relieve the Forum's servers of the file overhead since it is already on my website. Your reply has the picture but not the hi-res version, so I'm not sure I comprehend the instructions to create a thumbnail and a link to a hi-res off site. I'm reading the post How to Use Attachments so maybe there is what I need in there. If this post should be relocated, please feel free.In the row of editing icons there is a rectangle that is supposed to make you think of a picture. Press it and you can choose to link to an image hosted elsewhere or upload an image from your device to LTG.
Yes an inlaid rosette would normally be finished over just like it was plain top wood.I have no clue how the a rosette mosaic is finished in spite of watching people do install them in New Hartford. So...
Is the finish applied over the rosette? Specifically if there are things that look like scratches could they be scratches in the finish or are the evidence in support of the decal hypothesis?
Marquetry rosettes aren't a full circle, there's usually a gap under the fingerboard to allow some leeway in fitting it after the top is routed for it but yes the gap'd go under the board.I would assume that the fingerboard is covering a portion of the rosette.
Good question, I'm thinking a decal may be marginally easier to work with, only in not having to worry about possibly pulling up rosette when taking off 'board. In fact a decal may not even go under the fingerboard at all, as it might be a lot easier to cut to precise fit along the fretboard edge, I'd think.In the event that the fingerboard has to be removed would that be easier or harder with a decal, as opposed to a mosaic?
Does it even matter if there is a layer of finish between the rosette and the fingerboard?
Oh I accept a lot of 'em got decals now, still think at least some of 'em got real marquetry, but now believe I know why Greco left Guild:Well, it was nice just playing my Mark for a little while.
I still think it's a decal, Al. And, at least after Dave's restoration, it's definitely finished over.
Yeah, the primary reason I believe at least some of 'em did get inlay, but the catalogs have had errors before......Well, without cutting into it, I think my Mark VI Artist Special has a decal. I will admit it is very hard to tell one way or the other though, parroting what Fronobulax said earlier. The marketing literature clearly disagrees with me.
Higher magnification? Try to see if there's visible grain in the blocks? (Wouldn't expect 'em to try to reproduce that on a decal.)Mrs. Fro's Mark IV-R is from 1978 and I can't tell by inspection, for certain, whether it is a decal or inlay. Magnifying glass and extra lighting didn't help. I compared it to another guitar that did have a definite inlay and by comparison a decal might be more likely. The MK IV rosette is "busier" which suggests "more work". But I don't have any non-destructive ways to get a definitive answer.