S 100 74 restoration project
- Thread starter Ppolfeldt
- Start date
ForrestGeorge
Junior Member
Fantastic to see this come together.
SFIV1967
Venerated Member
Yes, a common issue, read for instance here:
early 70's S-100 bridges
So whats the best solution to keep them from rocking back and forth? Maybe silicone tape? That might snug it up some? I'm tempted to remove the whole damn thing and replace it with a post '76 version. I know this probably has been discussed before... tuff! LOL
letstalkguild.com
Ralf
For the headstock, which he wasn’t too keen on working with, he suggested I make a hard wooden block w sandpaper, and sand the laminate down until even and thin enough.
He gave me piece of 0,7 mm dyed maple veneer to then shape and attach.
Plus a load of advice on how to go about it and wich tools to use..
He gave me piece of 0,7 mm dyed maple veneer to then shape and attach.
Plus a load of advice on how to go about it and wich tools to use..
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Guildedagain
Enlightened Member
Old worn parts can and do move around. Watch the effects of hard G string bends on the roller saddle, there can be movement if the threaded barrels are loose.
Wooden nut looks pretty rough. Chisels, saws and files will take care of that. I'm guessing acoustic tone will be impressively improved with bone.
With one single Filtertron in neck position, this would be a Malcolm Young tribute ;]
Wooden nut looks pretty rough. Chisels, saws and files will take care of that. I'm guessing acoustic tone will be impressively improved with bone.
With one single Filtertron in neck position, this would be a Malcolm Young tribute ;]
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BradHK
Senior Member
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Another option is to finish with Renaissance wax. I built a rosewood partscaster about 10 years ago and just used this wax. It feels great, doesn’t leave finger prints all over when you use it like some wax does and it just gives it a certain organic vibe. I really like it. Pictures below after 10 years. Still looks good! (Sorry, no Guild content
)
Made an mdf block with high quality sandpaper glued to it. 60 grit and 180 grit.
Apparently the sandingmachines usually have too soft pads, these follow the surface ”hills and valleys” and don’t give the desired flatness.
Worked the plywood on the headstock even, using the brown layer of glue as a guide.
Apparently the sandingmachines usually have too soft pads, these follow the surface ”hills and valleys” and don’t give the desired flatness.
Worked the plywood on the headstock even, using the brown layer of glue as a guide.
Attachments
Nilfisken
Junior Member
I had the same issue and solved it with some copper tape. Check this thread for some pictures: https://letstalkguild.com/ltg/index.php?threads/my-1974-s-100.200805/page-2#post-1894389
Cheers,
Oskar
Ok, all coloring is done..
Added a layer og oilbased paint today, after the body repairs..
Time to glue the veneer on the headstock, white wooden glue ofcourse.
Final touch w 180 grit paper, plastic wrapped stick of wood for alignment…
Tomorrow the clamps come off..
edit: clamps off, cutting to shape, looking at the levin acoustic for answers on how to treat the edges, w. Holes and subtly beveled edges, first clearcoat…
Added a layer og oilbased paint today, after the body repairs..
Time to glue the veneer on the headstock, white wooden glue ofcourse.
Final touch w 180 grit paper, plastic wrapped stick of wood for alignment…
Tomorrow the clamps come off..
edit: clamps off, cutting to shape, looking at the levin acoustic for answers on how to treat the edges, w. Holes and subtly beveled edges, first clearcoat…
Attachments
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