Latest in progress from AHG

AcornHouse

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Scraped and sanded (mostly) flush. A light wash of shellac brings out the true colors of the Buckeye burl.

67FEB55E-D5EB-47EB-B042-4B3928A9B2E2.jpeg
 

JohnW63

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All this handmade stuff made me look over at the Fylde guitar site. He makes some pretty guitars, but I'll never be good enough to justify the price. I'm sure he's a good deal in the custom guitar price range, but....

He only has a few guitars in the shop to buy as most everything is build to order.
 

AcornHouse

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Westerly Wood

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I find it fascinating he went from his beloved Gibson J200 to this tiny little thing...You couldn't go more 180 from a J200. Well, maybe a Uke.

He began using this guitar in 1979 as his “on the road” guitar in place of his 1968 Gibson J-200.
 

GAD

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I find it fascinating he went from his beloved Gibson J200 to this tiny little thing...You couldn't go more 180 from a J200. Well, maybe a Uke.

He began using this guitar in 1979 as his “on the road” guitar in place of his 1968 Gibson J-200.
Dude is 77. Maybe his shoulder hurts.
 

AcornHouse

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I find it fascinating he went from his beloved Gibson J200 to this tiny little thing...You couldn't go more 180 from a J200. Well, maybe a Uke.

He began using this guitar in 1979 as his “on the road” guitar in place of his 1968 Gibson J-200.
It suits his finger style work better when he doesn’t need the power of the big jumbo. In this concert he played both (as well as his Guild 12 string).

 

Westerly Wood

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My shoulder hurt for about that long. :)
Oh yeah. My dread sits and I only play the F30r. I just remember how cool his acoustic guitar sounded on who’s next and I know that was the Gibson.
 

AcornHouse

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Prepping the fingerboard. On the typical classical, there are 19 frets, with the 19th fret cut in the middle to follow the contour of the soundhole. But more and more, builders, driven by the music and the players, are adding a partial 20th fret to allow guitarists to get up to a C. This allows any number of design options on how to incorporate it, from the extremely curvy to a linear approach to the gentle curve I’ve opted for. It still allows decent access through the soundhole. (Some of the overly “creative” soundhole shapes in the steel string world seem to offer little, if any, access inside. I pity the tech who has to repair something down the road.)

74C61F55-8DD9-422F-AE80-CECBC2AC31BF.jpeg
 

Nuuska

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Or - since the top is thin and flexible - just a hole through bridge - and a whammy bar bolted w washers will do the trick.
 

AcornHouse

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I sanded the end and edges that would be over the body to 1500. Got my locating pins fit and the position locked in (makes the whole procedure SO much easier. I wish I’d known about it for my early builds. (Hint, glue is slippery when wet!).) Slap some glue on (but not too much over the body. Don’t want squeeze out there.), find the pin holes, position the cauls, and erect the forest of clamps (or, forest of cramps or my UK friends).
Nothing more to do on it today except watch the glue dry. 😒😴

6FB3CC3D-30EB-473B-B86F-31E88EECF395.jpeg
 

JohnW63

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The picture of clamps is an historical record of his progress in building things. If they all matched, I'd be worried.
 

AcornHouse

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The clamps don’t match. I’m going to need to go lie down.
It’s only those TV shops that have all matching clamps. Real folk buy them in dribs and drabs as we can afford them or find them on sale. Notice the squeezy ones aren’t even the same. Some are before Irwin bought out Quik-Grip, some after.
 
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