CE-100

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This is the 1956 example with the delaminating top. Someone might be interested in looking at the process I'm going with.
The victim:
 

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Clamped up. I have a layer of foil between the top laminations and the attached bottom veneer. I sprizted some boiling water over the foil and clamped it down. It's gradually flattening out the warped section, but I'm not sure if it will completely. Binding channels are nice and clean, and there is a tiny piece of the original w/b/w binding in place, so I know what to copy.
Not sure if the number "34" written on the rim has any significance.
I have some highly sophisticated tools ordered, as well as some placeholder hardware.
 

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You're "all in" on this one! I'm sure you'll restore it so it once again makes great music. :)
 

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Steve, do you have any "before" pictures that show what de-lamination is? I'm not seeing the actual problem (but I'm also extremely ignorant).
 

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The last pic, around the cutaway shows some, but the top two layer of wood are loose on both sides of the top plate.
The pic with the spool clamps has I single sheet of aluminum foil running through the side of the top, past the f hole and into the pickguard area.
 

chazmo

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The last pic, around the cutaway shows some, but the top two layer of wood are loose on both sides of the top plate.
The pic with the spool clamps has I single sheet of aluminum foil running through the side of the top, past the f hole and into the pickguard area.
I think I see what you're talking about on the treble side of the pickup cavity in that last pic. And perhaps above the holes in the cutaway... I presume you made those holes while steaming off the binding, Steve?

Anyway, good luck with the repair. It's hard to understand why these laminated layers could separate. If they were joined with hide glue, do you think maybe the top was subjected to some extreme heat or something that would weaken the glue?
 

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It is some other type of glue, if the information I read on the internet is correct. Apparently some of those glues just deteriorate over time. I'm pretty sure it's not hide glue, but I'm going to be using fish glue to hold it down because that stuff is pretty strong, as long as there isn't any moisture.
 

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Fwiw, reissue Kluson Wafflebacks (ummm, waffles) fit the tuner holes for the original open back Klusons perfectly. They also hide most of the finish ghosting as well. Maybe they aren't original to the guitar, but they look pretty good on there.
 

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Fwiw, reissue Kluson Wafflebacks (ummm, waffles) fit the tuner holes for the original open back Klusons perfectly. They also hide most of the finish ghosting as well. Maybe they aren't original to the guitar, but they look pretty good on there.
Oh, you can hide the ghosting, but, ahem…er…um…, it’ll come back to haunt you!

😏😆
 

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Good news! Plenty of appropriate Dakaware knobs on eBay! Bad news! The Kluson tailpiece looks like it would fit, but does not match the old tailpiece holes.
Still waiting for my sophisticated tools to show up.
 

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The Kluson tailpiece looks like it would fit, but does not match the old tailpiece holes.
Would a Waverly tailpiece have possibly been original on these? They seem to have been common on T-100s.
 

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Wow. Pretty loose. I wonder if I could pop it loose and reglue the whole thing?
 

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Basically, the entire top is loose and the neck and some adhesive by the endpin is holding it on. Those are fairly large pallet knives.
 

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Top two plies, Walter.

Half of the job done and clamped up.

Second pic is what I used to squirt fish glue under the top. A dental syringe and some Teflon tubing for bicycle brake cable. Worked pretty well, although it was hard to judge where and how much the glue covered. Right now, it's got to stay clamped up overnight.

I'll get to the treble side in the middle of the week, energy allowing.
 

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