AHG octave mando build

[AcornHouse]

When does the neck carving happen?

Almost last. Next will be getting ready for the back (and not forgetting to put in the label and pickup first!) The the back binding. Then, with everything closed up and solid, I can clean up both bindings. Then the neck extension and fingerboard. Then the neck can be carved.

 

[Stuball48]

I am about to convince myself you understand AND have the skills to build with Martin's, Gibson's, Guild's, or any instrument builders best designer and builder. So so impressive.

 

[AcornHouse]

Peg O' My Heart.
Notice that because of the V of the neck, the dowels start almost completely in the mahogany neck block and end all in the maple of the neck, locking everything solid.

 

[GGJaguar]

How far down into the neck block to the dowels extend?

 

[AcornHouse]

How far down into the neck block to the dowels extend?

2-3". Enough so that they are all in maple. No need to go further than that.

 

[zulu]

Couldn't you just drive a couple deck screws in right there to achieve the same result?

 

[AcornHouse]

Couldn't you just drive a couple deck screws in right there to achieve the same result?

Deck screws would bend. (Aside from the obvious sarcasm.)

 

[AcornHouse]

I want to reduce the heel a little, so that the back curves a little along its vertical axis, adding strength and comfort. If you notice the grain on the sides follows that intended shape, which is why I oriented them that way.
The braces will arch a little to add horizontal curves.

 

[AcornHouse]

Japanese saws and wee little plane make short work of it. It's a subtle taper, taking no more than 4.5mm off at the tip, but it'll add a lot, even if it goes unnoticed by the player.



And the cut shows the joinery workings.

 

[AcornHouse]

And with taper faired, the kerfing can go in.

 

[GGJaguar]

Rubber band-powered clothes pin clamps!

 

[AcornHouse]

Kerfing planed flush with the sides. You may notice a couple of anomalies in the photo.

1. The style of kerfing is different from the top kerfing.
Yes, I found I prefer the reverse kerfing much better and, since the binding will go down into the sides more on the non-carved bottom, having it be thicker for most of its length provides more strength.

2. There are a couple of bits of mahogany kerfing next to the headstock.
When I ordered the additional kerfing for the bottom (I underestimated in my original order) I knew it took more than one length, but I had some spare bits of mahogany reverse kerfing from previous builds to fill up the difference.

 

[AcornHouse]

Rather bracing on this grey Autumn morning.

 

[GGJaguar]

If you're happy and you know it, clamp your clamps.

 

[GAD]

If you're happy and you know it, clamp your clamps.

 

[AcornHouse]

Unclamped, cleaned up, contoured, and sanded.

 

[twocorgis]

Unclamped, cleaned up, contoured, and sanded.

That is some seriously beautiful wood!

 

[AcornHouse]

Broke out the mini ryoba to rip some bracewood down to size with maximum use and minimal waste.

 

[AcornHouse]

Back braces notched and arced and center reinforcement notched for the back braces. Some more sanding of the back before glueing.

 

[AcornHouse]

My what a tangled web we weave, when first tight clampage we must achieve.