Well, what should I do with the T1RVT

[capnjuan]

Nice .... can you get them in black? Once you get your fresh speakers in and broken in, you can try your new 6GW8s and see if you like what you have. Yes; you'll soon have the most expensive T1 out there but ... if you decide to sell, you can always put the old speakers back in or offer them on the side for an up-charge.

 

[zulu]

Nice .... can you get them in black? Once you get your fresh speakers in and broken in, you can try your new 6GW8s and see if you like what you have. Yes; you'll soon have the most expensive T1 out there but ... if you decide to sell, you can always put the old speakers back in or offer them on the side for an up-charge.

actually, those monster feet seem pretty rare in any color, but I could always paint the tolex to match the feet.

I have no idea how I've managed to not try those tubes yet, but I agree,new speakers, broken in, then I'll finally put the mullards in and hear the real potential. Ugh, I suppose I should put some higher end 12ax7 in.

 

[capnjuan]

... Ugh, I suppose I should put some higher end 12ax7 in.

Yupper ... at least in V1. Wait though for everything to settle down ... speakers ... output tubes ... otherwise if you glom them ...

 

[zulu]

Hi guys,,
I've removed the original speaker baffle. If you'd be so kind to tel me how to safely remove the Guild logo. It seems to be attatched at the G and the d, but I'm afraid to start prying away, knowing me I'd end up with a Guil amp. Or an uild, possibly just an uil amp.

Thanks!

 

[capnjuan]

Hi Zac; if you don't see any nuts in the back then it's friction fitted. The mounting studs are tapered and the logo is tapped in place from the front. You need to either see if you can spot the tips of the mounting studs from the back and push them out ... a little on one side, then a little on the other side so the logo doesn't bend.

Alternatively, if the tips of the mounting studs don't poke through the back of the baffle, then you need something like a putty knife ... wide, flat blade to slide under the logo from the front and gently lift ... one end at at time ... good luck ... I don't think there are any U-Toob vids on this ... just go slow. John

 

[zulu]

thanks John.

 

[zulu]

take a veer if you have a moment.
Nice photos of cars, (not mine)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24796741@N ... 346008881/

 

[fab467]

take a veer if you have a moment.
Nice photos of cars, (not mine)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24796741@N ... 346008881/

Very clever - very cool! 8)

 

[capnjuan]

Fine veer and fine cars! Makes models for Hollywood... films .. video games? I don't think those are from the old kits they sold in the drugstores in the '50s/'60s are they? Fascinating!

 

[zulu]

Fine veer and fine cars! Makes models for Hollywood... films .. video games? I don't think those are from the old kits they sold in the drugstores in the '50s/'60s are they? Fascinating!

actually, baffling!


hey, speaking of the baffle:

and a mini tele?!?

 

[Default]

Take a short solo in the second chorus...

 

[zulu]

:lol:

 

[capnjuan]

Dang ... nice work and a strong collection of hydraulic jacks. Couldn't get the grillcloth in a wide enough width? The seam is nicely done ... I mean you notice it and then it quietly fades ... material from one of Coastie's sources? Coastie's logo was mounted with threaded studs ... was yours or was it friction-fitted?

I chased this Guild amp/case badge on eBay however I sent a boy to do a man's job ... was under by a buck but the wiener could have had $50 or more on it ... they are pretty rare. Speakers en route? I bought one of those old Bell & Howell-badged Jensen P12Ns I posted earlier in this thread but the speaker never made it ... casualty of the winter weather? Seller peacefully refunded.

Speaking of speakers, yours on the way? Mighty fine Z 8)

 

[zulu]

Dang ... nice work and a strong collection of hydraulic jacks. Thanks capn, that aint half the jacks in an airplane shop. Couldn't get the grillcloth in a wide enough width? The seam is nicely done ... I mean you notice it and then it quietly fades ... material from one of Coastie's sources? dont think it is a seam, capn, if so its a mill seam, photos highlight it. source same as you ferlingheimer link i believe, I got a sq yard, wanted to use the very edge in case of re-try. :roll: Coastie's logo was mounted with threaded studs ... was yours or was it friction-fitted? threaded studs. now the 'd' is threaded in and the G is friction.

I chased this Guild amp/case badge on eBay however I sent a boy to do a man's job ... was under by a buck but the wiener could have had $50 or more on it ... they are pretty rare. Speakers en route? I bought one of those old Bell & Howell-badged Jensen P12Ns I posted earlier in this thread but the speaker never made it ... casualty of the winter weather? audiophile ups driver?Seller peacefully refunded.

Speaking of speakers, yours on the way? Mighty fine Z 8)

thanks again John, speakers are due for delivery tomorrow, wed. I'm hoping they'll fit next to each other in the baffle without mods, we'll see.

 

[capnjuan]

... wanted to use the very edge in case of re-try. I know the feeling well. audiophile ups driver? Yes :evil: I'm hoping they'll fit next to each other in the baffle without mods, we'll see.

Hi Zac; if the shortest distance from one hole to the next is 1" ... you are at the rock bottom / edge-of-a-do-over minimum clearance. Most modern speakers seem to have deeper lips ... I think it's supposed to help with mid-range tone ... or is it Q? Looking good. John

 

[zulu]

Hi Zac; if the shortest distance from one hole to the next is 1" ... you are at the rock bottom / edge-of-a-do-over minimum clearance.

15/16"

I suppose it's probably criminal in some counties to put a brand new Weber on a grinder.

 

[capnjuan]

Hi Zac; if the shortest distance from one hole to the next is 1" ... you are at the rock bottom / edge-of-a-do-over minimum clearance.

15/16" ... I suppose it's probably criminal in some counties to put a brand new Weber on a grinder.

Hmm ... well ... according to our BBer Squawk's siggie: ""In Jersey anything's legal - as long as you don't get caught" ... (he's quoting a poet of some reputation ... )

If each hole is 1" less than the nominal 12" and 8" sizes and since wide lips don't contribute materially to better tone, and further since Weber knows this, there's at least a reasonable chance that they sold you speakers that are not wider than nominal ... <taking a breath> ... if so, then each is only 1/32" too wide.

It's been a while since geometry class but words like arc and tangent are in play ... I mean you'd only have to file enough steel away to slightly flatten the edge to a depth 1/32" ... (all things being equal which they almost never are). I suggest filing because unless you have a vacuum shroud around a grinder, it's going to spray steel frizz all over the place including inside the web of the speaker. With a file, you could wrap the speaker in a towel or something leaving only the edge to-be-filed visible.

Are you foreseeing the boo-boo or living boo-boo ... are the speakers there and bumping?

 

[zulu]

good tip on the file, if needed. Going to pick up speaks/run errands now, will report back.

 

[zulu]

ok. I'm a bit giddy right now, if you want to know why, skip to the part below about tone.

The speakers were too big to fit in the baffle together, overlapping by about 1/4". They were also right at the edge on the far left and right sides, so building a new baffle with wider spacing was not an option.

Unhappily, I took my brand new Weber alnico 8" speaker to the grinder :shock: Good news, no structural damage, and now it fits. (thanks to your tip, John, I put tape across all the openings and the front while the sparks flew)

My typical cosmetic blemish effect I add to all my projects. Maybe the guys at Weber will shoot me a little can of touch up paint.

I have to take a moment to tell you about my lovely, observant at all the wrong times, wife. She happened to notice that I was so anxious about getting the speakers, then shortly after unpacking them, I had one on the grinder. "what are you doing?"
"I have to modify this speaker a little bit so it will fit nicely"
and then, as if to prove she'd been paying attention to all my amp ramblings lately,
"you have to modify your new, custom built speaker so it will fit into the new baffle you made?"
see, observant, right? She was even kind enough to make up a simple little tune for me:

"I got to modify,
I got to modify,
I've got to modify my new custom built speaker."

in just a catchy enough time and melody that we've both got it firmly stuck in our heads and can't stop singing it to each other. :evil:

Back to the amp: a little final cleanup on the tolex, etc. and I'm in love all over again:

note the scratches around the inputs; a previous owner must have had some serious "bad aim"!

The Tone
I know these speakers have to break in, but immediately a huge, glorious blast of brightness, tightness and punch. Clear, full, just insert any positive amp tone adjective here, here, and etc. to boot.
Really, a big boost, and I liked the amp before! 45 minutes with the Starfire went by in 5. I actually rolled the tone back on the neck pickup which would have been a silly mud bath before.
Money well spent and I'm the newest Weber devotee.

Please Capn can I put the Mullards in????

 

[capnjuan]

... The speakers were too big to fit in the baffle together, overlapping by about 1/4". They were also right at the edge on the far left and right sides, so building a new baffle with wider spacing was not an option. I guess this is really a sequence problem; the thing is that once the cloth is on, you (we) are locked in re/ location of the ferlingheimers ... I see your point about no more space side-to-side but had there been and if the cloth hadn't been on, you might have been able to channel the ferlingheimer holes and still have enough threaded neck to bite allowing you to nudge the speakers out of each other's way ... assuming the overlap hadn't been more than an 1/8th or so. (Memo to file: hold on the cloth until the speakers are test-fitted to their ferlingheimers.)

My typical cosmetic blemish effect I add to all my projects. Maybe the guys at Weber will shoot me a little can of touch up paint. My work often features these; my wife's most common response: "Gee honey, it isn't really that noticeable" ... but you might contact them about some touch-up paint; like asking a girl out in HS ... the worst she can say is 'No'. (Eh ... you might want to avoid mentioning exactly why you need it ... consider something like "..had a minor shop mishap..."

"I got to modify, I got to modify, I've got to modify my new custom built speaker." What key is that in?

note the scratches around the inputs; a previous owner must have had some serious "bad aim"! Dram Shop Laws don't apply to the house band ... at least not if they bring their own booze.

Tone ... Congratulations! 8) 8)

Can I put the Mullards in???? Okay ... but before hitting a note, pour some Scotch or Stoly over ice ... keep it in easy reach. :wink:

I've never known anyone who was disappointed with a Weber speaker ... or ... if they were, they couldn't put aside a brand or flavor prejudice ... when the conversation defaults (sorry Steve) to talking about strawberry v. chocolate, then the discussion about the quality of the ice cream has come to an end (see Weber testimonial at footnote).

Once again, congratulations ... yours has to be the best-sound T1 RVT on the planet. Whatever the virtues of that circuit are, it's been released from the cost/quality restraints imposed by the production-oriented, build-to-a-price-point realities of post-war economics. When you come down from your T1 high ... let me know when you want to sling that Ampeg up on the bench. J



Weber Commercial: a/k/a "Hells Bells" Last year, I was helping the staff at Wuzzatronics Sound Labs NZ rehab a Silvertone (Salivatone in the native language) 1482 including buying/shipping a 230V power transformer. Part of engineering the transformer is orientation; laying down v. standing up ... re/ available chassis space or existing holes. Weber sent the wrong end-bells ... you knock the factory bells off and the replacements include adaptor brackets with feet that are trapped in place when the bells and bolts go back on. At the request of Wuzzatronics, Weber was asked to ship the correct bells ... which they did ... but they again shipped the wrong bells. Because they were causing assembly delays (consternation) at Wuzzatronics, Weber was asked to direct ship the correct end-bells to NZ which they did and without asking for either of the incorrect sets of parts to be returned as a condition precedent to them fulfilling their obligation ... Who says there's anything wrong with small-town values? (Turn it up!)