NGD ( not a Guild - sorry ) Martin Custom D ( also known as special D )

D30Man

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Been over a month since my last entry. I was locked out - my fault - because I have changed jobs and the account was linked to my former email address - couldnt remember password etc.. So, Gary to the rescue and here we go.

So, I picked this up in a trade with a guy here in Rockwall who was looking for a strat. I traded him my Lake Placid Blue strat that I built about 10 months ago for this. I had read some reviews before making the trade and they were favorable. As far as I can tell it is comparable to a D-15 except this model has the sitka spruce top and dot inlays as opposed the more decorative ones found on the D-15. I have to say well done Martin. I have played D-18's, D-28's and owned a D-16.. This thing has that Martin sound for sure. It also has a 1 7/8 nut width which feels pretty good to me. This is just a super guitar and can be found often for well under $1k used. It was made in 2013 and it boasts:
- All solid wood construction
- Made in Nazareth PA
- Fishman blended p/u ( which sounds really good )

I believe this model is now called the "Special D" and is made in Mexico. Based on what I have seen.

The good:
- super light
- super responsive
- action is superb - put some Martin 12.5's on there - sound even better
- tight grain on the spruce with some nice bear claw
- really nice hog on the back with some nice figuring
- sounds and feels like a martin to me
- no weird Martin cost-saving features like richlite FB or formica back and sides - all wood and you can hear it

The not so good:
- someone replaced the pickguard for a smaller one - see tan lines
- The tortoise binding at the waists is coming undone - Likely due to humidity - I am thinking wood glue here, but would love suggestions
- I don't own a D-18, D-28, D-35, D-41 to give this sucker a real Martin comparison :)

The verdict:
I am pleasantly surprised with how fun this thing is to play and I look forward to doing some shows with it!!!


custom d1.jpgcustom d2.jpgcustom d3.jpgcustom d4.jpgcustom d5.jpg
 

GGJaguar

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Nice score, congrats! I still have one foot firmly in the Martin camp so nothing bad as far as I can tell. Enjoy!! :)
 

D30Man

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For such a young guitar (10 years) I wonder why the pickguard was changed. That would bother me, but otherwise it's a very nice and workman like guitar and that mahogany is really nice! Congrats. Martin makes some really nice guitars.
Yeah Tom that was a bit of a head scratcher for me as well. I asked the guy and he told me he bought it like that. Oh well. I will probably never know.
 

GGJaguar

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The only reason I know some players changed pickguards was due to the pixelated pg's that Martin used from the mid 1990s through about 2005. My D-18VS had one and it was awful looking.
 

davismanLV

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The only reason I know some players changed pickguards was due to the pixelated pg's that Martin used from the mid 1990s through about 2005. My D-18VS had one and it was awful looking.
Yeah but wouldn't you get or make one that was at least the same size and shape?
 

GGJaguar

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Yeah but wouldn't you get or make one that was at least the same size and shape?
Well I would, but you know... some people. :LOL:
Most of the folks replaced their pixelated guards with Delmar guards and the were a really good fit. In fact, Delmar is what Martin ended up switching to and still uses AFAIK. The one this D dread doesn't look like Delmar guard to me.
 

jfilm

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Are you sure it's 1 7/8 at the nut? I thought those custom Ds would be 1 11/16 back in 2013. Just surprised that a "budget" model (below standard series) would offer that wide a nut. Maybe it is a bit better than a standard Custom D... you can email Martin with the serial number and they'll email you the exact specs within a week or so.

Anyway, I had an OM-1 with that same binding issue. I used Titebond II and it worked well- the binding fit back in this case, no shrinkage or anything, so an easy repair. Apparently there are still wood fibers stuck to the binding when it peels away, and the titebond can latch to that. I used blue painter's tape. If the tape leaves any residue, you can wipe it off with Naphtha. Martin had a lot of issues with their binding from I believe the early 2000s on, not sure if it has resolved. People have different opinions on this though, depends on the value of the guitar, etc., on whether or not it's worth it to you to have a guitar tech do it. My OM-1 was a beater so I didn't mind attempting it myself, and it was fine.
 

bobouz

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From the numerous reports I've read at UMGF, Martin's systemic loose binding issue started around 2012, and continued into the 2020s. I think the jury is still out on whether or not they've got it fully rectified. To the dismay of many owners, it has occurred on high-end models such as Authentic Series instruments, and the fix sometimes gets a bit more tricky with gloss finishes. And some owners have had a repair done, only to have another area of binding pop loose. Bottom line - a lot of frustration has been expressed regarding this issue.
 

D30Man

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Are you sure it's 1 7/8 at the nut? I thought those custom Ds would be 1 11/16 back in 2013. Just surprised that a "budget" model (below standard series) would offer that wide a nut. Maybe it is a bit better than a standard Custom D... you can email Martin with the serial number and they'll email you the exact specs within a week or so.

Anyway, I had an OM-1 with that same binding issue. I used Titebond II and it worked well- the binding fit back in this case, no shrinkage or anything, so an easy repair. Apparently there are still wood fibers stuck to the binding when it peels away, and the titebond can latch to that. I used blue painter's tape. If the tape leaves any residue, you can wipe it off with Naphtha. Martin had a lot of issues with their binding from I believe the early 2000s on, not sure if it has resolved. People have different opinions on this though, depends on the value of the guitar, etc., on whether or not it's worth it to you to have a guitar tech do it. My OM-1 was a beater so I didn't mind attempting it myself, and it was fine.
I have some titebond II and will do just that. Thanks for the insights. Easy fix for sure and It just so happens - due to a major home remodel that is just about done - I have painter's tape laying around too.
 

D30Man

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Well I would, but you know... some people. :LOL:
Most of the folks replaced their pixelated guards with Delmar guards and the were a really good fit. In fact, Delmar is what Martin ended up switching to and still uses AFAIK. The one this D dread doesn't look like Delmar guard to me.
GG I wouldn't know a Delmar pickguard from a Laguna Del Mar... :) But IMO the guard they put on there is no daisy... Again, why I love this place. You guys bring the goods. We're not even talking about a Guild here and I am getting some good insights. Thanks!
 

D30Man

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And don't strike me down, but I am thinking of staining the top.. I am noodling on either a cherry stain or something to darken it up some - maybe give it a more aged look. I figure I got essentially $430 in this guitar ( what it cost in parts to build the strat that I traded for it ) so may be a good opportunity to get experimental.
 

davismanLV

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A Guild PG on a Martin?? :eek::eek: Could really screw you up if you ever wanted to sell. Not sure how likely that is, though. And I'm kinda weird (okay, a LOT weird) about keeping things original.

As far as staining the top, that bothers me as well. But again, that's just me. It's YOUR guitar. Do you know what type of finish is on it? Might make staining a bit difficult and you'd want to know what you're working with before you'd start.
 

D30Man

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A Guild PG on a Martin?? :eek::eek: Could really screw you up if you ever wanted to sell. Not sure how likely that is, though. And I'm kinda weird (okay, a LOT weird) about keeping things original.

As far as staining the top, that bothers me as well. But again, that's just me. It's YOUR guitar. Do you know what type of finish is on it? Might make staining a bit difficult and you'd want to know what you're working with before you'd start.
Yeah I'm kind of a nut. If this were a collector's item or a family heirloom or a D-18, I would absolutely not tamper with these elements. This one would be something I would consider experimenting with. I am really enjoying playing it and I am going to give it a real test drive at a gig on the 12th. Even more than the unoriginal pickguard the top is so pale. I don't like it. It is satin finish all the way around. I will do my homework for sure before anything drastic.
 

D30Man

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I found the specs. I was off about the nut width, JFilm.

Features​

  • Solid Sitka spruce top
  • D1 A-frame bracing pattern
  • Solid mahogany back and sides
  • Modified low oval solid mahogany neck
  • Mortise-and-tenon neck joint
  • Indian rosewood fingerboard
  • Solid Indian rosewood bridge
  • Solid Indian rosewood head plate with raised gold foil decal
  • Small dot position markers
  • Inlaid single-ring rosette
  • Tortoise top binding
  • Tortoise pickguard
  • Adjustable truss rod
  • White Corian nut
  • Satin finish
  • 25-2/5" scale length
  • 16 in. fingerboard radius
  • 14 clear frets
  • 20 frets total
  • 1-11/16 in. width at nut
  • Includes Martin hardshell case
 

jfilm

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Yeah I'm kind of a nut. If this were a collector's item or a family heirloom or a D-18, I would absolutely not tamper with these elements. This one would be something I would consider experimenting with. I am really enjoying playing it and I am going to give it a real test drive at a gig on the 12th. Even more than the unoriginal pickguard the top is so pale. I don't like it. It is satin finish all the way around. I will do my homework for sure before anything drastic.
The top color will darken eventually when exposed to UV light... if you plan on keeping this one for some years. The satin finish is very thin, seems like a lot of work to stain it in the traditional way, which I think would involve stripping the finish first. I used gel stain on the back of my D-40 after finishing with tru-oil, and I liked the results. Gel stain can go on top of finish with just a light sanding. But a lot of work! Took a lot of coats of the gel stain to get the red I wanted. Then I had to go back over it with tru-oil. I don't think I'd attempt this on the top of a guitar, personally, and not on an otherwise great sounding Martin, without maybe practicing on a beater. I was fixing a very bad refin on my D-40 which is why I didn't mind trying it on that guitar.
 
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