Neck Block crack appearing on '71 D35

Norrissey

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Best of luck with it Norrissey
Thanks @bobouz ! Your suggested repaired combined with the diagrams/images from @GardMan will be great info to take to the luthier. Hopefully he will be able to have a close look at the neck block area of my guitar, assess it, and make a final decision has to how best to reinforce the top in that area. I will for sure suggest your additional braces-that sounds like the solution to me.
 

davismanLV

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Thanks West. I may try that and just keep a close eye on the area where the crack is developing and take the tension off the strings when I'm not playing it.
Yeah good but you can't live like this. Get it to someone.... I've actually seen this type of injury be helped by a popsicle type brace behind the crack!! And that will help because I doubt you have serious neck block issues but if you have access to a luthier.... then THAT!! It's diagnosis versus panic repairs. Did I just say that??? Holy crap! :ROFLMAO::LOL:
 

Norrissey

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Get it to someone.... I've actually seen this type of injury be helped by a popsicle type brace behind the crack!!
Thanks Tom! Yeah, now that I've seen the bracing diagrams from @GardMan it all makes sense. A brace/cleat behind the crack and between the popsicle brace and the neck block and between the popsicle brace the the first brace just above the sound hole sounds like it should stabilize things and hopefully stop the crack from getting worse. I will get the guitar to a good luthier soon!
 

kostask

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As has been written, remove the strings, and keep them off until an evaluation has been done. This is to avoid a displacement of the top into the sound hole.

Have a luthier look at it. If the guitar came with a popsicle brace, have him look for a failed glue joint between the popsicle brace and the bottom of the soundboard, or even if it is cracked (very, very rare). Have him look at the upper transverse brace glue joint with the top as well. You may want to have him verify the neck angle as well, a neck that is tilting upwards can put some downward stress on the soundboard, and cause a crack under some circumstances.

If it doesn't have a popsicle brace, you may want to consider adding one. I am of the opinion that this area of the guitar is acoustically dead, making no contribution to the sound of the guitar; others do not agree, and I am not going to get into an argument over it. One of the best ways of addressing this is with a popsicle brace, however. If it already has a popsicle brace, and the glue joint integrity is addressed, the only thing that can be done is to add one or more cleats to the underside of the top to make sure that there is no displacement.
 

bobouz

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Or send it to Bob! 😊 Interesting Bob. The "popsickle" brace is somewhat of a topic among Collings owners. Some claim that to omit the brace adds responsiveness to the top. Collings themselves won't commit to whether the omission of the brace adds to the responsiveness of the top or not, they only contend that one of their guitars, strung with no heavier than medium gauge strings, should go 50 years without an issue (and that's pretty much a direct quote from Collings). I chose to omit that brace in the guitar I ordered last year. Having said that, that "50 years" is about up with a '71.

Good luck with this Norrissey. Keep us posted.

Edit: From Collings:

Design Options​

What is a tongue brace and why would I want to leave it out?​

The tongue brace is a flat, thin brace that runs across a guitar's upper bout underneath the tongue of the fingerboard. String tension is always pulling the neck and fingerboard towards the body of an acoustic guitar and a tongue brace helps to reinforce this area to prevent the top from cracking along side of the fingerboard tongue. This cracking is only a potential problem and one that most likely wouldn't be an issue for 40 or 50 years. The tongue brace was originally developed in the late 1940's after cracking occurred on some popular pre-war instruments.

There are a few reasons why people order guitars without tongue braces or remove them:

1) Some players believe that the absence of the tongue brace allows the top to vibrate more freely, and therefore produce a subtly more open sound.
2) Some players like to try and duplicate pre-war bracing designs as much as possible.
3) Clarence White's 1935 D28 didn't have a tongue brace. Many builders offer "Clarence White-style guitars" like our CW model in which we leave out the tongue brace.

In the past 25 years that we've been building the CW model, we've never had a problem with the top cracking along the edges of the tongue. In the long run, a tongue brace is a good safeguard against tension cracks, however if you would prefer to have it left out it should not appreciably affect the structural integrity of the guitar for many years.

West

West, I had no idea that the popsicle brace was a source of controversy among Collings players. I can only say that any structural repairs I've ever made next to the soundhole (such as a pickguard shrinkage crack) or north of the soundhole (per this discussion) resulted in, to my ears, no discernible difference in tone. In this region of the instrument, my primary objective is structural stability first, closely followed by maintaining originality to the greatest extent possible.

However, I do run completely in the opposite direction, the closer you get to the bridge. Imho, and in particular with rare vintage instruments, repairs below the soundhole require the utmost thought & care in order to preserve the original structural design, and thereby the original tone, of the instrument as constructed by the builder. Unfortunately I've learned the hard way that in this region there's a very fine line, and structural overkill can easily lead to a disappointing tonal outcome.
 
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plaidseason

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I've been here and it's a drag. In my case, the neck block did shift and my luthier basically said, "that neck block is where it wants to be now." He does full-on restoration work, so I'm sure he'd have been willing to do an extensive repair, but it was a Westerly DV4, and I wasn't up for pushing for that.
In your case, I'm hoping, and suspect like some others that it's just a matter of adding a brace
 

West R Lee

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West, I had no idea that the popsicle brace was a source of controversy among Collings players. I can only say that any structural repairs I've ever made next to the soundhole (such as a pickguard shrinkage crack) or north of the soundhole (per this discussion) resulted in, to my ears, no discernible difference in tone. In this region of the instrument, my primary objective is structural stability first, closely followed by maintaining originality to the greatest extent possible.

However, I do run completely in the opposite direction, the closer you get to the bridge. Imho, and in particular with rare vintage instruments, repairs below the soundhole require the utmost thought & care in order to preserve the original structural design, and thereby the original tone, of the instrument as constructed by the builder. Unfortunately I've learned the hard way that in this region there's a very fine line, and structural overkill can easily lead to a disappointing tonal outcome.
And I can see that. And I may have put the issue among Collings player a different way. It's not really a source of controversy, it just that some players think it makes a noticeable difference, while other do not. You'll notice in the excerpt I posted above from Collings, they are pretty noncommittal on whether or not the popsickle brace makes a noticeable difference sonically. So given my circumstances being 65, and Collings top integrity estimate of 40-50 years without the brace, I was thinking it would be fine until I'm 105-115, so I took the plunge in hoping the omission of the brace MIGHT enhance the top some small amount. I will say this though, there is actually a $75 charge for Collings to leave the brace out. I had a tough time with that one until it was explained to me that the fee covers any repair they MIGHT have to do to the top in the future, (I think it was the first time in my life I had to pay to NOT get something).

I'm just pulling for Norrissey and hoping he can get his beloved repaired.

West
 
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GardMan

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The "popsickle" brace is somewhat of a topic among Collings owners. Some claim that to omit the brace adds responsiveness to the top.
There is also a large "cult" of Martin players that have the popsicle brace removed from their '70s era (? on the dates) Martin dreads to improve their sound... commonly talked about over on the UMGF.
 

Westerly Wood

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There is also a large "cult" of Martin players that have the popsicle brace removed from their '70s era (? on the dates) Martin dreads to improve their sound... commonly talked about over on the UMGF.
are they flat earthers too?
 

West R Lee

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There is also a large "cult" of Martin players that have the popsicle brace removed from their '70s era (? on the dates) Martin dreads to improve their sound... commonly talked about over on the UMGF.
Well again, with maybe 20 years of playing left in me, Lord willing and the creek doesn't rise, I was looking for the most vibrant, responsive top I could get right now. With the ability to dictate to the builder what I wanted, and knowing some thought omitting that brace "might" help, I also opted for Adirondack bracing with the Adirondack top. I can't imagine a more responsive top. Whether or not omitting the popsickle brace is a factor in that responsiveness is certainly open to debate. I really don't have an opinion on the matter, I was only armed with the "possibility" that omitting the brace might improve responsiveness.

West:)
 

Norrissey

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Thanks for all the help and info guitar masters! I really appreciate your taking the time to share your knowledge!
I took the strings off the D35 and tried to take a photo of the area on the inside of the top where the crack is forming. For some reason I had a hard time getting a good pic. The neck block is bottom right, popsicle brace in the middle, and the "First Brace" is at the top. The sound hole is just out of frame at the top. The pic is on an angle.

IMG_3148.JPG
 

Westerly Wood

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Thanks for all the help and info guitar masters! I really appreciate your taking the time to share your knowledge!
I took the strings off the D35 and tried to take a photo of the area on the inside of the top where the crack is forming. For some reason I had a hard time getting a good pic. The neck block is bottom right, popsicle brace in the middle, and the "First Brace" is at the top. The sound hole is just out of frame at the top. The pic is on an angle.

IMG_3148.JPG
I don't see anything of concern...what am I missing? To be fair I never look inside my guitar.
 

bobouz

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So given my circumstances being 65, and Collings top integrity estimate of 40-50 years without the brace, I was thinking it would be fine until I'm 105-115, so I took the plunge in hoping the omission of the brace MIGHT enhance the top some small amount. I will say this though, there is actually a $75 charge for Collings to leave the brace out. I had a tough time with that one until it was explained to me that the fee covers any repair they MIGHT have to do to the top in the future.
So as need dictates, on your 105th birthday, you can ask Collings to install the brace that’s already been paid for!😃
 

Br1ck

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Frets.com has an explanation of this, and the proper fix. It is not uncommon. A friend let me lose on his Cabellero which had pretty much folded up. The cross brace above the soundhole had failed causing cracks on both sides of the neck to the soundhole. I first put a block of wood under the neck block, clamped the heel block area of the guitar to the table, and put a large clamp on the fretboard and applied pressure, forcing the crack into alignment. Then I reglued the brace. Then I made a large cleat I could glue to both the neck block and the eintire length of the crackfrom the kerfing to the brace. Then I cleated the area under the soundhole. The other side was just a crack, glued and cleated in a few places. Check that the neck block itself is not cracked. It's a good vintage for a D 35. See a pro soon.
 

Norrissey

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I don't see anything of concern...what am I missing? To be fair I never look inside my guitar.
I don't see anything concerning on the inside yet but a crack is forming on the top. So per @bobouz and @GardMan I will likely have a luthier reinforce the top in this area by putting additional braces between the neck block and the popsicle brace and between the popsicle brace and the 1st brace. Fingers crossed!
 

bobouz

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Thanks for all the help and info guitar masters! I really appreciate your taking the time to share your knowledge!
I took the strings off the D35 and tried to take a photo of the area on the inside of the top where the crack is forming. For some reason I had a hard time getting a good pic. The neck block is bottom right, popsicle brace in the middle, and the "First Brace" is at the top. The sound hole is just out of frame at the top. The pic is on an angle.

IMG_3148.JPG
Looks good in there, so preventative steps may be all that’s needed. My own case was similar in that a finish check & slight bulge had formed at the soundhole (visually between the first & second strings when looked at from above), running a very short distance to the end of the fretboard. As with yours, from the inside all looked fine, but the smart bet leaned towards acting immediately to strengthen the area as a safeguard.
 

Westerly Wood

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well, I doubt I will be peeking inside my BR anytime soon, no news is good news...who knows what could be going on in there. lol
 
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