Modding Limited Edition Guitars

[GSFV]

I have a D’Angelico Brighton in a limited edition color (rose gold). It’s #22 of 50 made. Think about it as an SG shape with an insane neck join. You can make B shape barre chords on the 19th fret with ease.

I love everything about this guitar. Color. Finish. Satin neck. Well…every thing except the neck dive (any fix for that?) and the pickups. The neck sounds good, and the bridge sounds good, but the middle position has this odd quacky sound. It’s almost like it’s out of phase. Except it’s not. I’ve checked it and had a tech check it. They’re in phase.

So here’s my question. Given that it’s limited edition and all that, should I be hesitant to change things like pots and pickups? I tend to keep everything I take out so I can return to stock if I so desire. But I am nervous because it’s one of 50 and no longer in production.

Would you hesitate to make a change? Should I?
Thanks in advance!

 

[nmiller]

I would not hesitate to make reversible changes like swapping pickups and pots, just holding on to the original parts.

For neck dive, you may be able to hide some weights under the pickguard or in the control cavity. The closer to the tail they are, the more effective they'll be.

 

[GSFV]

Thank you!
I have heard that automobile weights are helpful. Thoughts on these?

 

[walrus]

Neck dive might be cured by simply using a cotton strap. A slippery smooth leather bottom will make neck dive "easier".

walrus

 

[GSFV]

Ive got a “hybrid strap”. Leather on the front, but cotton on the back. And the cotton is what’s up against my shirt. It’s by Franklin Straps. It works beautifully in my Les Paul. But maybe I need something different for this one. I’ll try out one of my others and see if that helps. Thanks!

 

[GAD]

I've modded $5000 Historic Les Pauls, and I mean "drilled into the top" kind of mods.

When it comes to electronics, tuners, frets, and the like, they're just wear and tear items. If the guitar doesn't play well in its original condition and replaceable parts can remedy that, then fix it.

But don't drill into the wood unless you're ready to embrace my special kind of madness.

 

[DrumBob]

Buy a 3" suede strap and make your easily reversible changes. Problems solved. I'd like to see a photo of this guitar.

 

[GSFV]

Yeah. I had a feeling that I was “fretting” over nothing.
GAD, that’s wild!! I don’t think I have those kind of cajones. Hopefully the drilling was good with no regrets. Were you installing a bigsby?

it’s a cool guitar. I haven’t gotten around to getting an image sharing account. But here’s a legacy listing on Sweetwater. Mine is a little more coppery than rose gold. But it’s really nice. Ebony board, real MOP/Abone inlays. It feels COMPLETELY different than what I’m used to. But it’s fun, and SO easy to play.

 

[GSFV]

Buy a 3" suede strap and make your easily reversible changes. Problems solved. I'd like to see a photo of this guitar.

I thought suede would be worse? Does it “cling” better than cotton helping the neck dive?

 

[walrus]

I thought suede would be worse? Does it “cling” better than cotton helping the neck dive?

Suede could work fine, I think the "3 inch" idea is a good one, too - more area to grab it. Trying a few straps is a relatively cheap experiment, anyway!

walrus

 

[GSFV]

Fair enough. I’ll definitely look into it. Thanks!! Any recommendations? My first stop is usually Franklin Straps. Just because.

 

[DrumBob]

I thought suede would be worse? Does it “cling” better than cotton helping the neck dive?

Yes. A wide suede strap will cure neck dive.

 

[fronobulax]

I thought suede would be worse? Does it “cling” better than cotton helping the neck dive?

The width of my strap is what makes it work well for comfort and to counter neck dive. It is 100% leather but finished on only one side. The rough side is on the bottom and it definitely keeps the strap from sliding. I mention it just because it is less finished (to me) than what I think of as suede.

Reversible mods and retaining the parts needed to undo the mod is a fine way to go. If you have to sell you can reverse the mod and your lawyer can tell you how to describe the instrument so that there is no deception about originality.

 

[Nuuska]

.... and your lawyer can tell you how to describe the instrument so that there is no deception about originality.

HAH !

Unfortunately that has been spreading from USA to all over the planet . . .

 

[fronobulax]

HAH !

Unfortunately that has been spreading from USA to all over the planet . . .

I worry about descriptions. My '67 Starfire was purchased used. The case was purchased, from Guild, new, in the 70's. The case has different shape and dimensions from what would have been a period correct original. Can I call it an OHSC because it is the case Guild sold me to fit the bass or do I call it a Guild HSC? Does it matter since the case would contribute less than 10% to the sale price? Does anyone who isn't on LTG really care?

 

[GAD]

Yeah. I had a feeling that I was “fretting” over nothing.
GAD, that’s wild!! I don’t think I have those kind of cajones. Hopefully the drilling was good with no regrets. Were you installing a bigsby?

it’s a cool guitar. I haven’t gotten around to getting an image sharing account. But here’s a legacy listing on Sweetwater. Mine is a little more coppery than rose gold. But it’s really nice. Ebony board, real MOP/Abone inlays. It feels COMPLETELY different than what I’m used to. But it’s fun, and SO easy to play.

There's a mod for Les Pauls called "The Mapleflame Mod". Basically on most (if not all) of the Historic Les Pauls (at least when I did it) the screws for the bridge only go about 1/4" into the top. If you remove the bridge and drill deeper so that the hole goes down at least into the maple then add a longer 1 1/2" stainless screws and make sure that they bottom out in the wood, you'll get increased sustain. Here's a thread on it from the Les Paul Forum:

Thanks Mapleflame!!

On the Pigtail post here last week, Mapleflame posted that if you replace the ABR-1 posts with 6/30" x 1 1/2" Stainless Steel screws(cut the head off after you get them set to the right height) your tone will really improve. Well.. it ain't no joke! Wow!! I've done a number of my guitars in the...

www.lespaulforum.com

This is not for the faint of heart. It's easy to drill to far and go right through the mahogany, and it's easy to make a simple mistake and damage the top. Of course it's easy to drill incorrectly and ruin the angle of the bridge posts, too. FWIW I think it made a difference, but I'd only do it on a Les Paul that seemed otherwise lacking in the sustain department.

This is the guitar I did it to, and it was a limited 1of25 Scotchburst finish from 2010.

 

[chazmo]

Beauty, GAD!

 

[Nuuska]

I worry about descriptions. My '67 Starfire was purchased used. The case was purchased, from Guild, new, in the 70's. The case has different shape and dimensions from what would have been a period correct original. Can I call it an OHSC because it is the case Guild sold me to fit the bass or do I call it a Guild HSC? Does it matter since the case would contribute less than 10% to the sale price? Does anyone who isn't on LTG really care?

Just to clarify - the "HAH" was not meant to dismiss Frono or his opinion - but to express how I feel about lawyers attackin anything like vultures.

 

[GSFV]

There's a mod for Les Pauls called "The Mapleflame Mod". Basically on most (if not all) of the Historic Les Pauls (at least when I did it) the screws for the bridge only go about 1/4" into the top. If you remove the bridge and drill deeper so that the hole goes down at least into the maple then add a longer 1 1/2" stainless screws and make sure that they bottom out in the wood, you'll get increased sustain. Here's a thread on it from the Les Paul Forum:

Thanks Mapleflame!!

On the Pigtail post here last week, Mapleflame posted that if you replace the ABR-1 posts with 6/30" x 1 1/2" Stainless Steel screws(cut the head off after you get them set to the right height) your tone will really improve. Well.. it ain't no joke! Wow!! I've done a number of my guitars in the...

www.lespaulforum.com

This is not for the faint of heart. It's easy to drill to far and go right through the mahogany, and it's easy to make a simple mistake and damage the top. Of course it's easy to drill incorrectly and ruin the angle of the bridge posts, too. FWIW I think it made a difference, but I'd only do it on a Les Paul that seemed otherwise lacking in the sustain department.

This is the guitar I did it to, and it was a limited 1of25 Scotchburst finish from 2010.

Wow!! I was right. You have serious cajones! Absolutely gorgeous guitar! I’m glad you’re happy with it. And I’m glad you didn’t drill too far.

For years my dream guitar has been a Les Paul. One showed up locally a couple years back for an insanely low price. It is a Traditional in Honey Burst. My wife tried convincing me to buy it, but I wasn’t so sure. She handed me an envelope of cash and told me to go for it! Obviously she’s a keeper. But only thing I did was add a Duesenberg short trem (like a bigsby b5) that has an adapter plate (no holes) and change pickups. I could never drill into that guitar.

 

[lungimsam]

Neck dive helps. Sometimes a lotta little improvements get you there:
1. Dual Design strap looks. They stand so tall as to have a cantilever effect, moving your strap attachment point a few frets more towards the nut. This helps offset weight/changes balance point a couple inches.
2. Sticky strap. Comfort Strapp good. Denim good.
3. Heavier knobs. ( like metal cylinder knobs).
4. Do they make ultralight guitar tuners?
5. Replace bridge hardware with heavier drop in replacements.
Basically, add as much weight as you can to the body nearest the control area.
7. Fashion a steel control cavity replacement plate to add weight.
8. Move the bottom strap button a couple inches up, as in clockwise when facing the instrument.