Help with D25 please

[roughdiamond]

Hi

This is my first post here and I'm looking for any info on a Guild D25. The seller says it's a ' Solid mahogany bowl back brown sunburst 70's model'. I got the serial no. 103353 and a few pics only (hope they show up!)

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/2183/1fc1c1c2db5852e08ffc380s.jpg
[url="http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/1388/1fc1c1c2db5852e08ffc380.jpg"]http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/1388 ... ffc380.jpg[/url]


http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/2183/1fc1c1c2db5852e08ffc380s.jpg
[url="http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/1388/1fc1c1c2db5852e08ffc380.jpg"]http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/1388 ... ffc380.jpg[/url]


Other than that I don't know any other basic info and would like to learn more about it for possible hands on viewing.

Thanks again

 

[roughdiamond]

Sorry - serial no. is DA103353

 

[hansmoust]

Sorry - serial no. is DA103353

Hello roughdiamond,

Got your e-mail. That particular D-25 is from 1980.

Hope that helps!

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl

 

[twocorgis]

Welcome roughdiamond! That serial number would date the guitar to 1980 according to Guild's not-always-accurate dating chart. It should have a laminated mahogany arched back, solid mahogany sides, and probably a dark stained or perhaps natural spruce top. Lots of love for D25s around here. 8)

 

[roughdiamond]

Thanks a million Hans and Sandy!

Reason why I'm asking is that I'm hoping for a nice aging flatpicker D18 type that does not muddy up when attacked...or is this model more renowned for finger pickin'? I'm not looking for a bluegrass canon either, rather an accompanying song shape picker. I know a test drive is a must of course but the seller is asking a handsome price! Is there any discernable sonic diff's between the stained and natural top? Also would this be made in the Westerly RI plant? The more info I have the better I can deal an offer with him!

Thanks

 

[GardMan]

Roughdiamond,
First, welcome to LTG!

The D-25 is sort of a "cult" guitar... and entry level model with a sound far surpassing it's cost. They're known for incredible projection and sustain, and have great bass. A great place to begin... I wouldn't expect the finish to affect the tone at al.

However, if possible, I would try out a D-25 with your style of playing. The D-25 tone, volume, and projection isn't for everyone. Sometimes I think mine rings so long, it can muddy up the chords when strumming. I tend to fingerpick mine in DADGAD tuning for a couple tunes I sing, but also capo up 3-5 frets, and she rings like a 12-string.

Good luck in your hunt for the Guild that suites you!

 

[valleyguy]

Lots of love for those old D25s around here. I recently bought a '81 that I have been playing to death (Use it for accompanying my singing). Great strummer, great flatpicker, tons of sustain, more than a D18. In fact, it's different than a D18, but it is loud.

What's the price on this?

No picture of the front?

That's my D25 on the left.

 

[Ross]

Sounds like a good one, Rough. As others have said, yours is mahogany/spruce, with a laminate arched back, made in Westerly.
Lots of love for D-25s here (mine's a '83 sunburst). I use it for all styles - it's my only acoustic.
When you examine the guitar, take its age into account, ie look at neck angle, fret wear, saddle & bridge etc - all of the things that an older guitar can suffer from.

 

[roughdiamond]

Thankyou Gardman for the welcome. I've only played one Guild dread a very long time ago. It was owned by a Scotsman who looked twice at me with a grazing sneer! I have a couple of Martins and now have 'hog' GAS after my recent 2nd Martin hog purchase! Anyways I'll try my best.

Hi Valleyguy, here's the front pic - sorry first timer syndrome!

Yours looks similarly very nice. The pic of one I'm looking at seems more glossy finish?

Am I allowed to list prices on here?

 

[adorshki]

This is my first post here and I'm looking for any info on a Guild D25. The seller says it's a ' Solid mahogany bowl back brown sunburst 70's model'. Other than that I don't know any other basic info and would like to learn more about it for possible hands on viewing.
Thanks again

Hi Rough, welcome aboard!
The fact that the seller says the back is solid raises flags to me. No arched Guild backs are solid, they're all laminated. Nothing wrong with that, it's a very strong and light construction method.
What makes me cautious after seeing many examples of this type of inaccurate description, is that it usually indicates someone who's probably trying to "flip" the guitar, looking only to make a quick profit.
I wouldn't expect them to be a player or owner, and therefore would excercise extra caution in evaluating its condition. Many small or large problems may not even be evident to such a seller. Assuming you're a little more experienced than the average Joe, things to look for are: neck angle and saddle height, fret wear, cracks in wood, bridge lifting. The original finish is gloss lacquer. Is there a case? It's almost a crime against art not to provide the protection of a HARDSHELL case for a good guitar. Some people here like to leave 'em out but I'm a firm believer in "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" and store mine in their cases.
Let us know if you need more advice on these subjects. Or just cruise the thread archives, there are multiple threads on these subjects.
NOTE ALSO Gardman nailed it when he said that archbacks can sustain so much they can in fact "muddy up" the sound. You gotta push 'em pretty hard to do that though.
But I can't remember ever hearing from a D25 owner here who didn't love their guitar!
By all means post the price, we'll letcha know if it's "sensible" according to our scotts value ratings! :lol:

 

[roughdiamond]

Thnx Ross will try. I seem to always get caught up in the sound, techy bits take a back seat as long as it stays in tune! Then the luthier's bill!! Which leads me to another question - is the neck glued on or bolt-on on the D25? I'm converting myself to bolt-on necks lately due to recessionary trends, colder than usual winters, central heating etc...

 

[GardMan]

Neck joint will be a glued dovetail. Resets on Guild can run a little more expensive than most, purportedly because Guild finishes AFTER the neck is mounted... which thus requires more restoration of the finish after a reset.

 

[adorshki]

Neck joint will be a glued dovetail. Resets on Guild can run a little more expensive than most, purportedly because Guild finishes AFTER the neck is mounted... which thus requires more restoration of the finish after a reset.

Not to mention a couple of remarks I've seen about the sheer strength of the glue bond. :shock:

 

[roughdiamond]

Thnx Adorshki for the heads up and wise 'been there' words. I will try tee up the meeting with my luthier (whom is well respected and I suspect he already knows as he is also selling one of his hand made guitars). At least if it goes 'out-a-shape' in the near future I'll have some form of agreement in place. It does come with a case, not sure it's original though. Anyways I'm in euroland dubland city and it's listed at 800 o.n.o. Don't know what that's in US notes but I'm assuming it's a little pricey even across the pond here?

 

[Ridgemont]

Welcome RD,

If you end up getting an archback D25, you won't be disappointed. They are cannons with a huge bottom end thanks to that archback. Good tone. The added sustain and extra low end makes them a tad messy for some fast fingerstyle, but outside of that, they are a good inexpensive overall guitar. I see you are slowly switching to bolt-on necks. Out of curiosity, what Martins do you have that have bolt-on necks?

 

[roughdiamond]

Welcome RD,

If you end up getting an archback D25, you won't be disappointed. They are cannons with a huge bottom end thanks to that archback. Good tone. The added sustain and extra low end makes them a tad messy for some fast fingerstyle, but outside of that, they are a good inexpensive overall guitar. I see you are slowly switching to bolt-on necks. Out of curiosity, what Martins do you have that have bolt-on necks?

I just got a D15S 12 fret slot that has mortise tenon join. I've fallen for its huge deep woody tone. I take it that the price is fair then?

Anyways the plot thickens. Just received message from seller re: the D25 - "purchased by me in 1978..excelent condition.... bone nut an bridge saddle ...ebony bridge pins an guild original open back tuners..all original,mint condition"

??? Any 1978 D25 owners outhere like to chip in?

 

[ratcab]

I've got a 1978 D25, bought from the original owner about three years ago. Had been sitting in a closet for about thirty years and looked like a new guitar. Surprisingly beautiful and loud sound that really didn't fully develop until after a couple months of aggressive flatpicking. Surpassed the Martin D35 I had by a significant margin- the Martin sounded dull by comparison. OK they are completely different guitars but I finally got sick of trying different strings on the Martin to improve the sound and traded it for a Guild 12 string (plus cash). No regrets.

I don't think there is any way you would be unhappy with a '78 D25.

 

[roughdiamond]

I've got a 1978 D25, bought from the original owner about three years ago. Had been sitting in a closet for about thirty years and looked like a new guitar. Surprisingly beautiful and loud sound that really didn't fully develop until after a couple months of aggressive flatpicking. Surpassed the Martin D35 I had by a significant margin- the Martin sounded dull by comparison. OK they are completely different guitars but I finally got sick of trying different strings on the Martin to improve the sound and traded it for a Guild 12 string (plus cash). No regrets.

I don't think there is any way you would be unhappy with a '78 D25.

Thnx ratcab for the tip of the hat. I might have to let go my D28 for this one! Only regret will be not being able to hear her after 30 odd years! Will try dealing a little lower as things here are not so good and keep the D28. I still don't know what to offer for the D25 if it's reported condition is true without insult. How old was your D35 when you let it go? I understand the dull in D35 when I played it before going for my D28 over it. I think if your pickin' wrist is sturdy and stiff the top opens a little quicker? Funny now because I don't mind my D28 becoming a little more of a D35 in terms of that natural bass thump hence my current joy of my other martin hog acquisition plus a little more wiggle room on string spacing. Is the neck a little more chunkier on the D25 than the D35's if you can recall?

 

[adorshki]

Anyways the plot thickens. Just received message from seller re: the D25 - "purchased by me in 1978..excelent condition.... bone nut an bridge saddle ...ebony bridge pins an guild original open back tuners..all original,mint condition"
??? Any 1978 D25 owners outhere like to chip in?

NOTE Hans Moust dates this guitar to 1981. He is THE undisputable arbiter when it comes to Guild dating. When the Westerly factory closed, he procured as many of their records as he possibly could, and is the author of "The Guild Guitar Book" which coincidentally covers the period just up to '77. So the purchase date appears to be a little off, but we've seen people have poor memories for such things and will let that slide. An original purchase receipt might quell any doubt. People who buy guitars as keepers for 30 years tend to keep such things. I have all my original receipts, in case I ever need warranty work..see what I mean?
Bone nut/saddle and ebony bridge pins were NOT original equipment on these (I could be wrong about the bone but as an entry level guitar I don't think they got bone even back then) So that negates the "all original, mint condition" statement, and credibility is slowly ebbing away...
Let's allow that he's simply being a little too casual with his condition statement...it COULD be used to your advantage since although these details are normally considered "upgrades" they're not original, and you're one of those "factory original" purists like me, right? Wink, wink, nudge-nudge?
Finally, at 800 euros it's pretty high by US standards. Most people here would probably say too high. If it was truly all original and mint (like unplayed condition) we'd like to see it around 6-650 euros with a good case too, tops. Based on 1 eu=$1.40 US
I can't think of any reason a '78 would be more or less desirable than an '81 in equal condition.
I understand scarcity plays a role in pricing over there, and finally, if you discover it's truly in very very good condition and you just flat out like the sound, it may be worth it to you personally.
I'm sure I speak for everyone in wishing you luck and hoping a deserving Guild finds a loving new owner!
If you like bass thump you'll LOVE the D25.
Guild necks can vary widely since each one was actually finished by hand on a belt sander. I think MY '25's neck is wonderfully slim, and I've got pretty small hands.
After many discussions here I came to realize that the feel of a neck is very subjective and "Chunky is in the hand of the holder" :lol: What's your glove size? :lol:

 

[valleyguy]

Woa, not sure I'd sell a Martin D28 to get a Guild D25, as much as I love my D25. That D28 will only appreciate over time.

If you're used to a Martin neck the D25 is chunkier, thicker.

My '81 D25 does not have open tuners. I can't imagine the factory changed from open back to closed from 1978 to 1981, but who knows. Anyone with a '78 D25 can add what tuners they have. Maybe they were replaced

Price in U.S. $ for a D25 of that age is anywhere from $US400 to $700 depending on condition, sunburst a little more. Not sure what your exchange rate is.