D40 1968 vs. 1978

[valleyguy]

Looking to get a D40 to replace my D18. Two are listed one from1978 the other from 1968.

Any suggestions as to which may be better? They seem in comparable shape.

 

[Br1ck]

The 68 is going to be a much lighter build. I'd like it better, but you might not. I'd sink neck reset money into the 68, and have to think harder about the 78. The 68 will probably have a higher need for work, but that is really a case by case judgement.

Why are you replacing a D 18? I'm kind of backwards on that. I love D 18s but would feel the need to unload my 70 D 35 if I did, so no D 18 for me....so far.

 

[valleyguy]

I bought a 2014 reimagined D 18, after some time I’m not enjoying the scalloped shifted braced sound. Of course it could be that I’ve become enamored with the Guild sound. Long ago I had a early 70s D18, sold many years ago,, that’s more the sound I’m after. You may think me odd, but every Martin with scalloped, shifted braces has an annoying ringy sound on the first string. Most people don’t hear it, but I do.

 

[valleyguy]

Here’s links to the two guitars.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/msg/d/long-beach-1968-guild-d40-acoustic/7332697845.html

https://offerup.com/item/detail/1084042559?q=Guild+guitar

interesting D44 here:

https://offerup.com/item/detail/1099661082?q=Guild+guitar

 

[secndshft]

I get excited when I see neck wear on a guitar like the 68’.

 

[donnylang]

The ‘68, far and away, no contest or hesitation IMO.

 

[Heath]

Must agree, ‘68. I have a ‘66 and it’s one of my favorites.

 

[Br1ck]

I never truly liked the modern D 18. I played one early on. I know exactly what people like about them and have no problem with that at all. But we are all not alike either. There are plenty of non scalloped D 18s out in the world.

 

[valleyguy]

I never truly liked the modern D 18. I played one early on. I know exactly what people like about them and have no problem with that at all. But we are all not alike either. There are plenty of non scalloped D 18s out in the world.

older D18s are pretty pricey compared to an older Guild. Luckily we all have different tastes in what sounds good to us....

 

[chazmo]

That'd be a tough call for me. The newer guitar appears to have a lot less wear. However, that looks like a new HSC, which looks pretty good to me. So, I think it comes down to what you like. I think Brick is right that the older one would be a lighter build, but I'm not sure. Typically, as we got into the late '70s, they were beefing things up a bit.

 

[CLMacPherson]

If you can get your hands on them, which may or may not be possible, I think your ears will steer you in the right direction. Honestly I'm jealous you have the choices. Haha I'm lucky if one or two Guilds pop up locally in a given year.

 

[Russell Letson]

Yes, ideally the deal-sealer should be how they play and sound. Even with my own bias in favor of pre-1970 Guilds, a hands-on evaluation is what would matter--maybe I'd be surprised by the '78.

 

[valleyguy]

Update, the 1978 seller has not responded in 4 days to my inquirie. He’s had it on sale for 4 months and me lives on a marine base, so who knows what’s going on. I went to see and play the 1968. Lot of wear, high action, but very playable. I spent half an hour with it and offered him $1,000, he took it, so its home with me now.

I took it all apart, polished the thing, pulled out the saddle and there are two strips of thick paper in the slot. This thing should have a neck reset, but I put it all back together, put on new strings and the action seems lower than before, am I imagining things? Spent the last hour playing and comparing to my other guitars. It is very playabl, a nice bright clear sound, but a little weak in the bass. Wondering if those paper inserts below the saddle are affecting the sound. I will be debating whether to do a neck reset now… $400 I imagine?

Nice guitar, glad I bought it. Very different sound than my rosewoods, less harmonics from adjacent strings , just what I was looking for.

 

[Br1ck]

Live with it for a while. First impressions are not reliable with most Guilds. If you are used to the typical Martin sound, your ears will need to adjust. What you are hearing is a balanced guitar. It is not a Martin. Over time, I think you will come to appreciate the evenness and the clarity , especially if you record. My Martins have to be heavily EQ'd and they still fill too much sonic space. Those old Guilds do everything well, but never slam you with the first impressions like a Martin will. They are at a disadvantage in a store.

I play three guitars 90% of the time. My 70 Guild D 35, my 07 D 35 Custom and my 65 Texan. The guitar I'm playing resides on a stand. I play it until I get the urge for a change. I play the Guild as much as the others. It's the easiest neck for me. I have to adjust because the bass on both the Martin and the Epiphone are dominant. The Guild is just so steady.

I'd play it until the action bugs you. Certainly long after the newness of having it wears off. Mine was in the shop for two weeks and as soon as it was gone, it was the one I wanted to play.

 

[chazmo]

Awesome, Fred. Enjoy it!

I'm not sure what you're finding in the saddle slot. I might expect to find shims, but why would anyone put paper in there? That's gotta' affect the tone. I assume you're not talking about an old under-saddle piezo transducer system -- sometimes that looks like a strip of paper/metal under the saddle. Anyway, I think what I would do is take out the paper and get a new saddle in there and try to sand it down to a proper height. Maybe even the original saddle will work OK. Maybe that'll make the action perfect for you. Without really looking at the neck angle, you can't really tell what needs to be done. Neck reset is a last / best resort, but may not be what you need.

 

[valleyguy]

Br1ck, I was comparing the sound to my D50 and D55, not Martin. Yes, what I’m hearing is a clear balanced sound , what I would expect from a mahogany guitar, no lush harmonic overtones to compete, it will record very nicely. I will live with it for awhile Before I decide to do anything else.

chazmo, there are two actual pieces of paper in the saddle slot, not a pickup, I removed them. There was a pickup thar was removed, he said it was a K&K, but if it was a under saddle, then two strips of paper were added to push the saddle up. Yes, a new saddle would be the easy fix to this to see how the sound changes. However, that won’t improve the action, right now it is a little harder to play then my other guitars due to higher action.

Ill have to take some pictures to show you. A straight edge comes up below the top of the bridge and the saddle height is about as low as you can get. I don’t have a good ruler to measure action at the 12th fret, but it is higher than I like it, or normal.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[valleyguy]

Some pictures



As you can see saddle is as low as you can get

 

[adorshki]

Some pictures



As you can see saddle is as low as you can get

A-yup. and though it may be due to lens distortion, the first and last pic almost look like the bridge has been shaved and even "scooped" a little in front of the saddle. Ideal combined height of bridge+saddle at their crests, should be 1/2" +/- maybe 5/64 tolerance, with bridge being about 5-6/16 and saddle being about 3/16.

Varied a bit by build period but I'd expect a '78 to be on the thicker side.

 

[wileypickett]

Another thing to check for is bellying behind the bridge. Not uncommon on guitars of a certain age.

Run your straight-edge across the widest part of the lower bout, parallel to the bridge. With the straight-edge balanced on the hump in the center, look for how much space is under the ends of the straight-edge. If there's a 1/4" or more, you may be able to lower the action by installing a Bridge Doctor. It'll flatten the top and bring the action down, perhaps to an acceptable level.

I've rescued several Guilds with these things.

 

[wileypickett]

The saddle doesn't appear to have been sanded to me.

It looks like you do have some lacquer chipping in front of the sasdle however, which is consistent with the bridge having tilted forward, another indicator that there's is likely some bellying going on.

Enough tilt and you may notice the intonation is off. If so, the Bridge Doctor may help that too.