Buying used (online), what are your personal rules that guide you?

Coop47

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Several people have purchased vintage instruments from remote GCs and evaluated them locally. The variable, over time, has been whether there is a non-refundable shipping charge associated with that. The return policies have varied, both across time and between "used" and "vintage" but it is a reassuring process for people who prefer not to commit before inspection.

GC tends to be pretty responsive, as returning your first call indicates. But lots of businesses don't play telephone tag well so I wouldn't hold it against GC. it is also possible that if the instrument sold or is in route to another store there's no point in calling you back. You will eventually see the absence on the website.
Regarding the shipping charge, the only way I've gotten around it is if the guitar is seriously damaged in transit, or if I've had it shipped to the store and there's a obvious condition experience from what was described. That said, it's usually under $30 and I'm usually willing to pay it if I'm fairly certain I won't otherwise get a chance to try one anytime soon and/or if I'm fairly certain I'm going to keep if it's as described. I have a GC fairly close by and can return it there to avoid the return shipping.

Their return policy on guitars is fairly liberal, but double check the 15 day thing on Vintage. I believe it's much, much shorter than that!! Like four days or so? Be careful.
I think it's five days for vintage. Definitely not 15. I'm sometimes surprised at what is considered vintage now - by that's me issue, not GC's.
 

RBSinTo

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By the standards of this site, I am guitar-challenged as I currently own only six. Of that half-dozen, one was used and purchased from a store in a previous century (1974 Martin D-28 bought in 1979), and one was a DIY kit purchased new last year.
The other four were used instruments, and all advertised on Craigslist or kijiji.
My policy is to never buy any guitar sight-unseen or not personally played before consummating the deal, so I will never buy anything that is so far away that I can't conveniently drive to try, and if suitable, pick up.
Of course, there is the usual email back and forth with photos and descriptions before we get to that stage.
I've purchased one about 18 months ago that needed repairs, (2001 Guild GAD jf-30) but all this had been disclosed before the sale, repair estimates received and factored into our agreed-upon sale price.
I am not so obsessed or suffering from that GAS silliness that instruments to be found in other distant parts of this world, or indeed on any other world that need Fedex, or the Space Shuttle for shipping, will ever be considered.
In a nutshell, my rules: See it. Try it. Like it. Buy it.
RBSinTo
 

fretless

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I've been looking for a D25 (first early flat back and now mid 70s arch back). Obviously, you cannot find them at every local GC. I cannot tell you how many Reverb sellers have a no return policy and also don't list detailed information about the action or bridge/saddle. With a neck reset potentially adding 50%-70% to the cost, I am limiting myself to guitars with at least a 1 day return policy. Some ads say "low action", but when asked either don't respond or will come back with 7/64" or 8/64" (not what I'd call "low"). I'm one of those sellers that lists neck widths and thickness at the 1st, 5th, and 12th fret and the action of the e strings at the 12th. And I give a 3 day return window. But I feel like I'm an outlier.

Anyway. So what do you look for? What risk are you willing to take? Am I being unreasonable is messaging and asking sellers about this?
You sound like a super thorough Seller! Communication with the Seller is key, also reviews. Also maybe avoid 1st timers... That was where my mistake was, but even then I still wound up with a very cool 1960 F20 SB (Ghost Label) that I could never get my $ out of, but I never intend to sell it! I have stopped buying without a return policy (in most cases). I know whatever I buy I'll probably have it set up, so I probably don't ask all the right questions...
 

Br1ck

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Thanks, the Frets.com article was very useful.

Does anyone know how tall Guild bridges generally start off at? My Martin bridge is 3/8" tall.

Martin has three different bridge heights. They use the best one for each guitar as it comes down the line. Don't know about Guilds, but I suspect a few shaved bridges on the more inexpensive models. My D 35 sure had one. A travesty since it was Brazilian. My luck Hans had one he could sell me.

I would not worry much if a guitar was less than 20 years old, older and I'd be wary, buying from long time LTG members or guys like Mr. Fixit. A business with a reputation to protect is reassuring to me.
 

Seiki Yoshida

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hi

i have bought 3 guilds acoustics on reverb from america 2 japan.

i asked the seller to send me close up pictures like : rest of the saddle height, guild sticker inside (westerly era), asked if they ever have turned the truss rod or not, the size of the strings they ve put, and lastly if possible, movie that the seller play several simple chords to see the playability.
not to mention, i check the evaluation from other buyer :)
do understand to be cautious because of the distance and unknown condition.

thanks
 

NM156

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I bought a Fender MIA Jazz bass from the Guitar Center online used section. It did have a few issues that were not listed. The descriptions are usually too brief, and you only get 1-2 frustrating pictures. The price was fair though, and I kept it.
For a long time, I was watching the used Guild D25 guitars that GC usually has a few of online. If I got one, I'd could buy it and have it shipped to my local GC for free. Then if I didn't like it, I could return right then and there. Not a bad way to go. Why haven't I? Because I liked the detailed pictures on Ebay and saved over $100 compared to GC. I knew the guitar wasn't perfect, but I knew what I was getting, and the pictures spoke to me. I'll keep watching GC. You never know when GAS strikes again.
 

ReevesRd

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Only if the guitar is from a reputable brick-and-mortar store or from a reputable individual seller. So far this has worked out well for me. I own four Guilds all bought online. One from an individual and the other three from brick-and-mortar stores. Good luck.
 

D30Man

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Pictures pictures pictures. If on GC.com, call and have them evaluate and send better photos. Often times they will. At least that has been my experience. I have purchased several guitars on line with really good results because I ask questions, I ask for additional photos and I typically have a pretty good idea of what the condition will be before it hits my hands. However, tone ( like others of said ) may be a reason for you to re-sell it and try to re-coup, but not one for returning and I agree with this policy.
 

D30Man

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Caveat emptor, do your homework and be careful. That pretty much sums it up.
Yes and try to cover every base aside from the obvious fact that you wont be able to hold it in your hands. I read reviews, I look at specs, I go on LTG and look for any threads related to said guitar ( as it's usually Guild I am buying save for the odd Eastman or Epiphone ). I have them send photos of frets in the cowboy chord area, close up of the saddle and bridge, and action at 12th fret.
 

twocorgis

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I get wanting to try a guitar before you buy, but by doing so you're severely limiting your available choices, especially if you're out in the country.

In my experience, and I have probably had a hundred or more guitars pass through here, every one of my favorite guitars was bought without the luxury of playing it first. Every one. And here's the trick; if you buy them for the right price, you can sell them and rarely, if ever, lose money on the deal. In all my gathering, I think I've only lost money on one or two, and it was less than $200. You might not be so lucky, but for really rare guitars like my Martin D18 David Crosby Signature, you're never going to find one of them locally. In fact, they're near impossible to find online, as they only made 250 of them, and they're so good that owners just don't let them go. I have saved searches on both eBay and Reverb for this model, and you only get hits once in a blue moon, and then they're 2-3x what I paid for mine. I think we're starting to see the same thing with Guild Orpheums, but at least there's somewhat more of them out there.
 

D30Man

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Agreed. Or even more so the rare Guild Morpheus Matrix Revolution Edition.. :)
Seriously all but one of my Guilds was bought on the interwebs.
My F-55 Reverb / CME
My F-130 guitarcenter.com
My DCE3 Reverb
My recently acquired F47M - Reverb / Grassdog- LTG'er - came to me in stellar condition well packed and as advertised 100%

I bought the D-35 on CL from a guy in East TX whose shoulder was giving out.
 

Stonehauler

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I've been looking for a D25 (first early flat back and now mid 70s arch back). Obviously, you cannot find them at every local GC. I cannot tell you how many Reverb sellers have a no return policy and also don't list detailed information about the action or bridge/saddle. With a neck reset potentially adding 50%-70% to the cost, I am limiting myself to guitars with at least a 1 day return policy. Some ads say "low action", but when asked either don't respond or will come back with 7/64" or 8/64" (not what I'd call "low"). I'm one of those sellers that lists neck widths and thickness at the 1st, 5th, and 12th fret and the action of the e strings at the 12th. And I give a 3 day return window. But I feel like I'm an outlier.

Anyway. So what do you look for? What risk are you willing to take? Am I being unreasonable is messaging and asking sellers about this?
I am not saying these apply to the people here but for the majority of others on the internet...
If the offer is too good to be true, it probably is.
The guitar is almost never as good as the seller claims.
The pictures posted will always show the instrument in it's best light. Not saying the pictures are doctored, but for listings with 3-4 pictures, it's guaranteed that they are glossing over something.
For instance, someone posts a Guild F512 from 2020 for 500 dollars claiming it's "mint or excellent condition" but only has 2-3 photos with low resolution, it would be red-flags galore to me.

Next. Be sure of what you want and what you will accept. Are you willing to accept a top that developed a split and has been fixed well with glue and a cleat or cleats as necessary? What about if they fixed it but they left a lot of glue? What about a bad repair job? Note: Almost no one is going to say it's had a bad repair job or that they made a hash of it when trying to fix it.

If you are buying an antique, how much variation from original are you willing to accept? Replacement tuners? A refinish? One that was destroyed and then had a complete rebuild, including a new neck?

If you are buying something "owned by someone famous" or some other notable example of a guitar, what kind of providence are you willing to accept to "prove" that it was really owned by that person? Example, someone claims to own one of John Denver's 12 string guitars. Yes, you can find out if he owned that model, but what do you need to be sure that he actually owned (and maybe even played on stage) that particular guitar? If it has a signature, has that signature been verified by an independent third party that can be trusted? Do you have the ability to independently verify the signature/providence and return if it's not as advertised?

Ideally, I would also ask for a sound sample, but not everyone will be able to either record it, or be able to even play. Some of these instruments might just be owned by a collector that saw them as an investment and they don't know how to play. They might also be the heirs of an estate that has looked up "grandpa's guitar" and see's money signs flashing.

Finally, remember that the more expensive an item costs, the more likely it is that someone will try and counterfeit it. Again, not talking about people here, but I go back to the first warning...if it looks too good to be true, it is.
 
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musicofanatic

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Buying from private sellers: Was the ad intelligently worded? Were the provided images of good quality and did they clearly show details of the guitar? If it's "NO" to either of those questions, I move on. If "yes", I get the seller on the phone...if he/she is a schmuck, a scammer, a crook, or an idiot, you'll likely know after a short conversation. Specifically, if it's a D-25 you seek...this model is common as a stone...they made a gazillion and if you cannot, through diligence and persistence, find one you can examine hands-on, I'd be shocked.
 

D30Man

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This is an awesome thread, guys. Lots of experience for us to draw from each other, including the OP.
Agreed Chaz. Lots of different philosophies and tidbits. Also different angles from which you can look at this topic.
 

cupric

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New world issues!
I spent decades buying guitars I wanted pre internet. Most transactions went fine. EBay was primarily a auction site. You buy it, you own it. I bought many a great guitar in those days.
I find that most guitar ads are pretty complete. If you have questions, etc., then they are usually quickly answered. Pictures can be quite high resolution. There are most often safeguards for the buyer. Selling can be the sore spot.
If you are looking for a rarer model often times the only question is how badly you want it. I've bought within one minute of seeing the ad. If someone else gets it it is gone forever.
 

Neal

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The beauty of buying online is that you can find literally anything that might strike your fancy.

Recently, I developed an itch for Gretsch guitars. I bought a safe bet, a modern two-tone green Double Anniversary with Filtertrons, online. I like it a lot. But then I naturally started to wonder what a really old one sounds like, aware of the infamous binding rot and bad neck pocket fit of many '50's and '60's Gretschs.

After a bit of patient waiting, I found a great deal on a '56 Electromatic, with its original Dynasonic pickup. I looked at all of the photos and the description, and observed no noticeable flaws except for the wildly inappropriate Gibson tulip-shaped Klusons. I had great interaction with the seller. Decided to take a chance.

It has become my favorite guitar, purchased for $1000, plus shipping.

There is almost no way on this earth that I could have found it locally, or anywhere near that price anywhere other than online. That is the true value of buying sight unseen.
 

Boneman

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I think this is a similar thread to another we discussed batting average of success buying online. I agree with a lot of what has been said already. And as for any losses you may take on a "bought and didn't like it resale", just look at the amount of money "lost" as a rental fee for trying that guitar out.

Seeing as it is an archback D25 you are seeking, you'll be able to find those all day. I would be patient, scan craigslist and GC, and when the right one comes along you'll know. Heck I think we've posted several in the ebay/craigslist section recently that look to be solid. Shoot if you are in so cal, that one in Hollywood is probably still available and can probably get it uder $500. So depending on your budget I'd think you can acquire one of those fairly quick.
 

musicofanatic

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What a 180 degree paradigm shift. 5-10 years back the majority of those on innernet gearqueer forums preached "Oh, no, never buy a guitar sight unseen...my relationship with a guitar is too personal to try to "bond" (everyone was so worried about "bonding"...) with a guitar you buy-before-you-try...never (ever, ever!!) buy a guitar without buying it flowers and taking it out to dinner it first!!" I welcome this more sensible, practical approach demonstrated in response to this thread!
 
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