I dropped my "new to me" D25 off with the luthier for an eval and setup before I went on vacation, and was able to pick it up yesterday afternoon. The only corrective fix that it needed, was some shimming of the nut to bring the string height back to where it needed to be. The neck is in good shape, and there is nothing structurally wrong with the guitar -- not bad for a 43 year old instrument. Other than a couple of minor fret dings that can be dealt with later, a really good cleaning/polishing was the only other thing that it needed. Pictures to come this weekend when the sun comes out.....
Back from the shop
- Thread starter Brick
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Br1ck
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You are reaping the rewards of a post 72 guitar. Play it for a while but let me tell you my story. I had my 70 D 35's neck reset, a new bridge, saddle nut and frets installed at the same time seven or eight years ago. I was hearing an undefined something that had changed, a tonal difference if you will, primarily on the high E. I took it in and got a what are you talking about responce. Finally they said they could do a fret level and crown, with an It's your money attitude. They really found nothing wrong. I told them to go ahead. When I got it back it was my superb guitar again.
It is my belief that any guitar that has not had a level and crown after five or so years should get one, particularly if it is a new to you guitar. I've had this done to various guitars four or five times now, and it has never failed to make a guitar better. In fact it is this very luthier that won't do a setup without a level and crown. It's a shop policy. I laughingly told them it was al their fault I'm now so picky. Primarily it is a clairety of tone. I don't like low action, but if you do it becomes necessary.
I had my Weber mandolin worked on by the same guy. A month later, something wasn't quite right. Another look like what are you talking about, but he went in the back and did something to it that solved the issue. Probably a nut slot clean up, and all is well. After the are you nuts thought, I think they appreciate a discriminating customer and their ability to please them. Anyway a $150 or so very well spent IMHO.
It is my belief that any guitar that has not had a level and crown after five or so years should get one, particularly if it is a new to you guitar. I've had this done to various guitars four or five times now, and it has never failed to make a guitar better. In fact it is this very luthier that won't do a setup without a level and crown. It's a shop policy. I laughingly told them it was al their fault I'm now so picky. Primarily it is a clairety of tone. I don't like low action, but if you do it becomes necessary.
I had my Weber mandolin worked on by the same guy. A month later, something wasn't quite right. Another look like what are you talking about, but he went in the back and did something to it that solved the issue. Probably a nut slot clean up, and all is well. After the are you nuts thought, I think they appreciate a discriminating customer and their ability to please them. Anyway a $150 or so very well spent IMHO.
Still sounds awesome, and even better than before. Going to be messing around with strings for a while to figure out what sounds best to me. Playability is much improved with the nut correction.
It's something I'm keeping an eye on, but thanks for the reminder of how important this can be. I've got a 60 day window if anything else needs to be done.
zulu
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Oh that's a beauty!
Great looking guitar!
Boneman
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Oh yea! (said in the Kool aid guy voice)Now I know why you were jazzed, that is a killer looking dread right there. I got one just like it and it is great to look at 
The tight grains and the burst, Then you strum it and boom! You become Guildstruck.
The tight grains and the burst, Then you strum it and boom! You become Guildstruck.
Rich Cohen
Senior Member
A fellow singer-songwriter plays his D-25 regularly at a local mic here in Charlottesville. I also play my Guilds there. He always sounds good, rocking out with his sunburst D-25.
I'm still amazed how good this sounds for an "entry level" instrument. Aged wood helps of course, but still.
Next thing to keep an eye out for (long term) is a 12 string dred to upgrade from my existing (not a Guild) 12'er.
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That's the definition of a Guild guitar.
Br1ck
Senior Member
Look, a D 25 is an entry level guitar like the Dino was an entry level Ferrari. I think the pressed backs are one of the most misunderstood features Guild ever offered. I think most view them as a plywood cost saving feature, when it was in fact a sonic design. The main differences between guitars as price increases are decorative. Better looking wood, pearl inlay, and five ply binding have little sonic effect. An entry level guitar is a Stella.
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In May 1991, when I was about to graduate from law school (and had just started playing in public), my dad took me to what was then Music Row in NYC (now sadly gone) to pick out a graduation present. After a day of playing Martins, Gibsons, and others, I picked a D25. I was happy because it sounded and looked great, and my dad was happy because it was the least expensive guitar I played that day. I haven't once regretted my choice.
Interesting way to look at it, and it makes a lot of sense. I guess from my point of view, "bling" is not a priority.
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Heath
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To be fair, Stella’s also went though many phases. The originals (made by Oscar Schmidt) are wonderful, well made guitars. When the name got sold to Harmony is a completely different story
Boneman
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I think entry level may refer to its price point of the manufacturer’s line of products, not necessarily quality of instrument. The D25 might have been Guild’s lowest, i.e; entry level priced dreadnought, but it is certainly not a “beginners“ guitar.
The guitar is WAY better than I am, that's for sure.