1974 F-47

Guildedagain

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Yes, you're doing it all wrong ;]

Wax on, let it dry, preferably, then wipe off. There really is an art to this, and it can also be done badly, I'm sure many here got in trouble trying to wax a car, uneven finish.

So while I prefer cotton I do use Scott blue towels cause they are throwaways, and it doesn't hurt to hydrate the cloth a little but you don't have to.

I shake the bottle up real good, and I squirt a dollop in the blue towel, squeeze it together, let it completely impregnate the cloth, no excess, rather the opposite.

By then, you've identified the problem areas, under the arm, around the bridge, etc, so start wiping the wax on, you can feel it cutting for just a second and it mellows out, keep buffing to the point of almost dry but do let it dry eventually. Do the whole guitar. That gives ares plenty of time to dry.

Walk away for a minute.

In good light from a window, start wiping the wax off with a different cloth, cotton preferred, or guitar poishing cloth.

Start at the top by the neck, and start swirling the cloth with decent pressure to wipe the wax off, and the wax will build up on the cloth and become a buffing pad.

Start coming down the guitar looking at the problem areas as you buff, and buff accordingly.

Get all the wax off in this buffing manner.

Re-examine the problem areas.

Do you need to repeat the process to get the gloss you're after?

Load the wax rag with more freshly shaken wax, about a teaspoon I'd say.

Go over the problem areas again, get em as shiny as you can without hurting the finish, and also you've got to recognize when dulling of the finish from years of sweat and neglect has dulled the finish to the point where it will not shine like the rest of the guitar, so be it, don't go through the finish.

I always concentrate on the top first, then the back and sides.

As others have pointed out, Virtuoso and others, there are guitar cleaner/polishes out there.

A bottle of Meguiar's lasts like 10 years for about 10 bucks, you should see what it does to old motorcycle paint.



Gorgomyte


DO NOT LET IT SIT at all.

Start wiping a 2 x 2" square around the frets, eat Wheaties that morning, get the cloth warm, start attacking the frets, here the fewer the better ;] Take your thumbnail, maybe with a nitrile glove on if you care about your health obsessively, and start attacking the topside of the frets across back and forth, each one will feel lumpy at first and immediately smooth out, elbow grease, lots of it.

Find a position that doesn't involve jamming the headstock into other furniture, but I like to hold the guitar on my lap.

Go over all the frets from top to bottom, cleaning the fret and board, it gets harder as they get closer.

Clean the bottoms of the fret wire across the frets, go back up to the top.

When the cloth is pure black and loaded with gunk, flip it over to the other side and repeat.

When the cloth is 100% used on both sides throw it away and start over with a new square, all the way down and back up the fret board until you are satisfied that everything is clean and polished, use both sides of the cloth fully, 2 squares usually do it.

Throw the second square away, these do not reuse.

Make sure to keep your Gorgomyte sealed in sealed bag between uses.

Take a dry sacrificial terry cloth face towel and go over all the frets and fretboard wiping away any residue until it is 100% and reasonably little black comes off the frets.

At this point you'll notice if the fret ends grab and shred the cloth, if they do, it's "fret sprout" and needs to be dealt with, at least for me.

I have a little tiny Swiss file made for this job, square, two filing surfaces, the same, and two blank - smooth - surfaces. You have to stay awake through the job and make sure the smooth surface is always down against the wood.

Every guitar has this problem where we live so I've learned to deal with it.

After Gorgomyte, the frets with feel incredibly smooth, and so will the board.

Tone is greatly improved.

I only say because I can't play a guitar with 20 years of someone's DNA on the fingerboard, so the guitar will be relatively toneless until I remove the crud from the fingerboard.

I used to think it was chic to have a roadworn looking guitar to the point where I had to clean my own Gibson fingerboard of 20 years of ownership to get it up for sale, and I could not get the junk off.

This is before I learned about Gorgomyte.

With Gorgomyte, everything is possible.

The future is Gorgomyte ;]

Thx GAD
 
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bobouz

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Fwiw - A few years ago, I bought some Gorgomyte, expecting to experiment with it at some point. The packaging said nothing about the make-up of the chemicals used in the product. I thought about it more and just couldn't bring myself to use it, not knowing what it might be doing to the fretboard wood.

Because of this thread, I went online and still can't find out anything about the composition of the product (perhaps the info is out there & I missed it). At any rate, I then went to look again at the packaging of the never used Gorgomyte I still have. When I pulled it out of a drawer, I found that the chemical imbedded in the product had seeped out of the sealed packaging & it got on one of my hands. To my nose, it smells sort of like WD-40. I had to thoroughly wash my hands four times to get the smell off.

Also a note about Nomad's F-1 Oil mentioned above: it actually is not a true bore oil. Nomad does indeed sell another product labeled as bore oil for wind instruments. Fret Doctor (and it's clone, Bore Doctor) is the only fretboard product I'm currently aware of that is fully flower based, which to my understanding is what bore oil is supposed to be. There are many other products labeled as bore oil, but they typically contain a mixture of assorted natural oils (and hopefully nothing else like petroleum distillates, which can be found in fretboard products like Guitar Honey).

To date, Fret Doctor is the best fretboard treatment product I've found. With either vintage or newer instruments, my technique is to first clean the frets and fretboard with fine bronze wool (which is non-magnetic & therefore won't cling to pickups). Once any build-up of gunk is removed, you are down to clean wood which is now ready to accept Bore Doctor's oil. The oil can only soak in so far, and it then essentially creates a protective seal. The oil can also sometimes cure minor cases of fret sprout caused by a board being badly dried out. It also is the best product I've used in fully bringing out the beauty of a fretboard's wood, and typically it results in a somewhat darker appearance. Sorry if this sounds like a Fret Doctor ad, but it's produced the best results I've ever obtained after all these years, and with no downside.

So bottom line, I'm not saying Gorgomyte is a bad product. I'd just like to know what the heck is in it before I consider subjecting my guitars to it. And given that I'm so satisfied with the process I now use, it seems rather unlikely that I'll ever go there.
 

Rich Cohen

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I've owned the F-47 and it has always remained in my memory as one of the best shapes Guild produced.
Welcome to LTG! You've come to the right place. Lots of good conversation, advice, humor and information.
 

Guildedagain

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I think Gorgomyte uses the power of Coconut oil - Lauric Acid - to do the job.

 

Guildedagain

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They say lemon oil, but I smell the coconut.

"Original lemon oil formula.
Specially treated cloth loosens and removes dirt and oxidation fast, leaving frets shining like jewels and feeling great.


Weird name, but it really gets the job done! Gorgomyte® was developed by veteran guitar tech Jimmy Johnson as a nonabrasive, faster alternative to steel wool. Gorgomyte cleans and conditions fingerboards without leaving a sticky residue. Jimmy's proud to say Gorgomyte is used by more big-name touring bands than any similar product.

"I'm so used to great frets now it's hard to remember life before Gorgomyte!"
—Tommy Shaw of Styx

The 6" x 9" size means Gorgomyte is more economical and fresher when you're ready to use it. A new finer cotton weave helps it clean more efficiently, too.

Gorgomyte is environmentally safe, non-toxic and non-irritating to your skin. It's chemically treated with lemon oil to condition and enhance the beauty of fretboard woods. No need to mask off the frets."

So it's Mr. Roboto approved ;]



They do claim it is non toxic, but I don't recommend getting all of that black gunk on your fingers.

For the record nothing but Gorgomyte here since I found out about it, and my boards and frets are nothing short of spectacular, which is great for a one step process.

I've been buying guitars from the 60's and even 50's, some of these still have frets like new and the boards are very very conditioned from age, meaning I don't want to upset the natural luster of the wood, and Gorgomyte does that very well.

When it comes to wood, cleanliness is definitely next to Godliness. Keep it clean, see the grain, feel the wood, better tone.

In the olden days, I used 0000 steel wool when I had to, and then oil and was I surprised to open old cases and find gunky boards with hardened oil residue, but it was over 100 degrees for 100 days here or seemed like last summer, so not surprised oils came up and gunked the top surfaces up.

Frets are soft, most, and over leveled/flattened frets can be mildly recrowned with the Gorgomyte cloth, by blending the flattened area with the sides, it is pretty impressive stuff.
 

Charlie Bernstein

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Welcome, Lono! Personally, I wouldn't put naptha on nitro. It's a solvent, and it would be a crime to rub away any of that gorgeous finish.

I've used it to finish a few guitars, but once the finish is on, I clean with guitar polish.

Music stores all sell it. My favorite is the Martin polish that comes in a pump bottle. Easiest directions, and it does a nice job.

Just so I'm not talking down or up to you, what's your experience with guitars pre-Guild?
 
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Charlie Bernstein

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Thanks for the advice on humidifying the guitar. I've done the sponge in a travel soap dish I've drilled holes in before. I was unaware of the water beads. Looks like a great solution. I'm going to pick some up. Thanks!
You can also just use a spray bottle full of water to mist the inside when the air is too dry.

If you store it in the case, a wedge of apple is cheap and easy.

I got a humidifier from a drug store and a cheap hygrometer from a hardware store. They both live in the livingroom with all my instruments. When the hygrometer goes below 50%, I turn on the humidifier and let it run until the room is up to 55%.
 

fronobulax

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I'm pretty sure that naphtha is safe on NCL.

Given the number of times it has been recommended for removal of Sharpie signatures on NCL I have to believe if it WASN'T safe, we would have heard about it. But maybe people ask for advice and then don't follow it?
 

Lono

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Welcome, Lono! Personally, I wouldn't put naptha on nitro. It's a solvent, and it would be a crime to rub away any of that gorgeous finish.

I've used it to finish a few guitars, but once the finish is on, I clean with guitar polish.

Music stores all sell it. My favorite is the Martin polish that comes in a pump bottle. Easiest directions, and it does a nice job.

Just so I'm not talking down or up to you, what's your experience with guitars pre-Guild?

Thanks for the welcome! I appreciate your concern. While naphtha is a solvent, so is water. I started using naphtha based on the advice of some touring techs and luthiers I know. According to them it's pretty widely used, and based on my observations I've found that to be true. I've never had any trouble using naphtha for cleaning lacquer. I've also never heard of anyone else having any problems while using it.

My pre-Guild guitar experience is mostly limited to solid-body electrics. Currently I own nitrocellulose finished guitars made by Fender, Gibson, K-Line, and Leclair. They've all gotten the naphtha wipe down.

I've used the Martin polish before. It works really well. I currently prefer the Lizard Spit variety for the longevity of the polish I get.

Here are some post-cleaning photos. It shined up pretty nice!
PXL_20220104_185315976.MP.jpgPXL_20220104_190455499.MP.jpgPXL_20220104_190459499.MP.jpgPXL_20220104_190504158.MP.jpgPXL_20220104_190522181.MP.jpgPXL_20220104_190826465.MP.jpgPXL_20220104_212939705.MP.jpg
 

chazmo

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Gosh darn that's a beauty... I don't think your granddad played that guitar much, Lono. Almost zero fretwear. And if I've ever seen a more pristine soundboard and pickguard from that era, I can't remember it! That's a real keeper, even without the sentimental value.

The wrinkling on the headstock veneer is a normal thing, by the way. Adds character. :)
 

Lono

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Gosh darn that's a beauty... I don't think your granddad played that guitar much, Lono. Almost zero fretwear. And if I've ever seen a more pristine soundboard and pickguard from that era, I can't remember it! That's a real keeper, even without the sentimental value.

The wrinkling on the headstock veneer is a normal thing, by the way. Adds character. :)

There's just a bit of wear in the open chords, but not much at all. The only thing I can find wrong at this point is the 15th fret is popping up a bit on the treble side.

Thanks for the note on the headstock veneer. I poked at it a bit trying to figure out if there was anything loose. Great to know it's to be expected.


Done! 😂🤣 I didn't even notice. Thanks for the laugh.
 
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