Capos

West R Lee

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I'm always wanting to try a new capo for whatever reason. Some people collect cars, others stamps........I like capos. For whatever reason, I've always preferred what most refer to as a "cradle" capo, or one that actually clamps around the neck, with support on both sides, and generally a screw adjustment to control pressure on the neck.

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Left to right are an Elliott (all the rage and very expensive), a Thalia (gift from my wife who thought it was pretty), a D'Addario cradle capo, an old "Fretspanner", and a G7th.

As most of you know, capos come in a variety of fretboard radius or radii to match fretboard radius. The Thalia comes with interchangeable inserts to accommodate varying radii for use with a variety of guitars, and also with partial capo inserts. The Elliott was ordered to match the radius of 3 of my guitars.

I'm well aware that some will simply say, "buy a $10 Shubb". And yes, I hear what you're saying. But my observation is this. Money or reputation do not make the capo, fit does. The capo in the middle, the D'Addario, is probably best suited to all of my guitars, regardless of radius. Strangely, the Elliott was twice the price of the D'Addario. The D'Addario seems to be just flexible enough to accommodate all of my guitars, regardless of radius. The Thalia is the most unique in accommodating various radii, and seems to work fine with all of my guitars, though an insert change is required when switching from a couple of guitars to another. The Thalia also seems to add an almost metallic sound to whichever guitar it is on. So though in my view, the Thalia distorts sound a bit, it's not really unpleasant, simply different. The old Fretspanner, second from right is old and worn, but it offers not one, but two pads which contact the fretboard, offering sort of a double hold on the strings. Though worn, I can't bring myself to throw anything, including the Fretspanner away. The G7th, on the far right is probably my least favorite, though a very popular capo. I simply don't care for the gear clamping method it uses.

As expensive as the Elliott was (gift from Mrs. West), G7th makes a cradle capo at the identical price of around $150, though I now see Elliott now run over $200. So I guess my point is that they all offer something just a bit different, but price doesn't correspond with performance in my view. In fact, though I own an Elliott, and they are made here in Texas, I don't fully understand the mystique, price or reputation of Elliott, when compared to say a D'Addario for half the price?


Thoughts? Other than go buy a $10 Dunlop?

West
 
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hearth_man

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West, you certainly have explored many options. I'll have to say I have not tried near as many but I do like Shubb capos on my 6 string Guilds, of varying neck shapes. As well as a Shubb classical capo for my Guild Mark IV and CCE-100.

Now when it comes to my 12 string Guilds, acoustic and electric, I do not like the Shubb 12 string capo. I use a G7 12 string capo with the ramp shape rubber sleeve to match the octave strings. Great design.

But I would agree that any of these capos are a compromise in design. None are perfect.
 

West R Lee

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Do any of you own capos that may work great on one guitar, but buzz on another? Or that do not buzz on the first few frets, but do buzz on say the 4th?

West
 

West R Lee

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West, you certainly have explored many options. I'll have to say I have not tried near as many but I do like Shubb capos on my 6 string Guilds, of varying neck shapes. As well as a Shubb classical capo for my Guild Mark IV and CCE-100.

Now when it comes to my 12 string Guilds, acoustic and electric, I do not like the Shubb 12 string capo. I use a G7 12 string capo with the ramp shape rubber sleeve to match the octave strings. Great design.

But I would agree that any of these capos are a compromise in design. None are perfect.
Collings guitars have what they refer to as a "compound radius" Heath. I would assume, more radius as you travel up the neck. One of those guitars capos great thru the first 3 frets, then begins to buzz on the 4th. Interesting because that is with the Elliott capo, yet the less expensive D'Addario does not buzz, regardless of where it is positioned on the same guitar. :unsure::) I can only attribute that to a changing fretboard radius. But what do I know?

West
 

Rocky

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I don't think there is a perfect capo so they are all a compromise.
True enough. I usually prefer a Shubb, but you can't stick them on a headstock, so it's a Kyser for live performance. Although I was gifted a G7 for the holidays. It works well, but when I install it, I live in fear it's not tight enough, even though the tension is perfect. But you can't stick it on a headstock either.
 

lungimsam

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I use Shubbs but I like that Daddario and the Elliot. They look like you can just roll them up and down the neck. Cool!
I only use a capo for bass though.
Been thinking of using one on fret 2 of my Fender Precision and detuning to D tuning to make it an effective 30” scale bass.
 

banjomike

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I prefer to call the cradle capo a stirrup. I also like to call the other design an open throat.
Of the two, I have always preferred the second- an open throat capo is much faster to set, and they never get bound up on the neck like the stirrups do.
hubb
Most of this comes from the banjo, where most players live or die by how good their capo is. I only use the deluxe Shubb with the little roller on the clamp gizmo. I have several, with some equipped with flat pads and others curved for radiused fingerboards.
So far, no Shubb has ever carved a hunk out of the neck finish, and none have ever let me down onstage. Or have broken.

I keep one stashed in my banjo's flange holes, and one I keep stashed on a slot on my favorite guitar strap.
 

hearth_man

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Collings guitars have what they refer to as a "compound radius" Heath. I would assume, more radius as you travel up the neck. One of those guitars capos great thru the first 3 frets, then begins to buzz on the 4th. Interesting because that is with the Elliott capo, yet the less expensive D'Addario does not buzz, regardless of where it is positioned on the same guitar. :unsure::) I can only attribute that to a changing fretboard radius. But what do I know?

West
I think another piece of the puzzle is the softness or hardness, durometer, of the rubber sleeve. The softer more pliable rubber would be better able to contour to any radius differences as you move up and down the neck without you having to add more force.
 

West R Lee

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I think another piece of the puzzle is the softness or hardness, durometer, of the rubber sleeve. The softer more pliable rubber would be better able to contour to any radius differences as you move up and down the neck without you having to add more force.
Oh for sure Hearth. I also thing nowadays, capo builders focus more on radius than they did years ago. At least I don't recall 30-40 years ago ever reading anything regarding radius built into capos.

West
 

West R Lee

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I've learned to attempt to suit my voice with capos Wood. Long ago, I discovered with my very limited voice range (though I very rarely sing these days) to use a capo in order to find a key that I was comfortable with. These days I simply play around with a capo, but do it often.

West
 

Westerly Wood

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I've learned to attempt to suit my voice with capos Wood. Long ago, I discovered with my very limited voice range (though I very rarely sing these days) to use a capo in order to find a key that I was comfortable with. These days I simply play around with a capo, but do it often.

West
ah, for the voice, of course. I don't sing, so for me, I only used capo when I played in worship bands and sometimes the hymns are in the most jacked up keys lol...capo 2nd or 3rd frets to survive.

And when I get bored of my acoustic, I will throw a capo on 2nd fret cause the BR sounds great like that. There is a big capo footprint on the neck at the 2nd fret, as the BR was first owned by a Bluegrass guy.
 

West R Lee

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ah, for the voice, of course. I don't sing, so for me, I only used capo when I played in worship bands and sometimes the hymns are in the most jacked up keys lol...capo 2nd or 3rd frets to survive.

And when I get bored of my acoustic, I will throw a capo on 2nd fret cause the BR sounds great like that. There is a big capo footprint on the neck at the 2nd fret, as the BR was first owned by a Bluegrass guy.
Yea, sometimes I'll just play capod at the 4th in standard tuning simply because it makes it easier to fret and play and I like that sound up the neck. Just fun stuff for playing around. I love to capo in Open D.

West
 

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I have a variety of capos kicking around. Some are of the old elasticised band variety. One is an antique brass one with a thumb screw with an ivory knob-the heavy leather strip inside the bar and the felt that rests against the neck at the end of the thumbscrew have more or less disintegrated so it can't be used without doing some repair.

My favourite for the few times I use a capo is a Kyser. With medium gauge strings on a guitar, it never seems to put things out of tune.
 

West R Lee

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I have a variety of capos kicking around. Some are of the old elasticised band variety. One is an antique brass one with a thumb screw with an ivory knob-the heavy leather strip inside the bar and the felt that rests against the neck at the end of the thumbscrew have more or less disintegrated so it can't be used without doing some repair.

My favourite for the few times I use a capo is a Kyser. With medium gauge strings on a guitar, it never seems to put things out of tune.
Oh man, I forgot about the elastic band types. I actually had a couple of them years ago. Maybe some of the easiest to use.

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West
 
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