Starfire 1.5 (Starfire 1 Mod Project)

Matt R. · May 10, 2021

mellowgerman said:
DarkStar template should work just fine. The only difference is that the Novak (like the vintage bisonic) has rounded height adjustment paddles underneath, whereas the DarkStar's paddles are kind of a clipped, squared-off design so they dont extend out quite as far. I dont think that would make a difference though as long as you have the DarkStar "swimming pool" template, which has a big centered rectangle cavity cut-out like the Novak one and is intended to give you enough room to rotate the pickup 180degrees, so that extra 2 or 3mm of the rounded paddle shouldn't matter

Great. Thanks! I’ve placed my order for the Novak.

fronobulax · May 10, 2021

Matt R. said:
Great. Thanks! I’ve placed my order for the Novak.

Now that it's too late, I hope you got the coil tap.

Matt R. · May 10, 2021

fronobulax said:
Now that it's too late, I hope you got the coil tap.

Ha! No, but I’m gonna mod a Warmoth single coil PBass with a BS/DS, and may include that.
I know what the coil tap is supposed to do, but I’ve never used one.
How does it install? Is it a switch or a push/pull pot type situation?

fronobulax · May 10, 2021

Matt R. said:
Ha! No, but I’m gonna mod a Warmoth single coil PBass with a BS/DS, and may include that.
I know what the coil tap is supposed to do, but I’ve never used one.
How does it install? Is it a switch or a push/pull pot type situation?

Mine is a toggle switch. I have no idea which side emulates a vintage Bisonic and which emulates a Darkstar but there is a difference. One position feels more open/less dense than the other. My ears say the biggest effect is in the midrange frequencies. I consider it a wise investment if only because sometimes I get tired of a tone and I can address that with the flick of a switch instead of swapping basses

Minnesota Flats · May 10, 2021

Another, outboard way to exert control/nuance:

mellowgerman · May 10, 2021

Matt R. said:
I know what the coil tap is supposed to do, but I’ve never used one.
How does it install? Is it a switch or a push/pull pot type situation?

It's essentially just an extra lead coming from the pickup that you can run to ground, to eliminate a portion of the coil. The full coil is the vintage Hagstrom Bisonic voicing (higher output, warmer, woodier, bassier) and once you reduce the number of winds by running the extra lead to ground, you get the DarkStar voicing (lower output, more articulate/clear, more treble frequencies). You can wire this up with a push/pull pot, toggle switch, rocker switch, slider switch, etc.
Sidenote! I have yet to try this, but in theory, you should also be able to wire it up to a traditional potentiometer, which would act like a volume control, effectively allowing you to pan between the two voicings. I never ordered a Novak direct with the coil tap, though I kick myself for not having done so. My Serek Midwestern, which showed me just how cool and useful the tap feature is, has it wired to a push/pull pot, but I plan to keep that bass all original, so won't be messing with the wiring there. Next time I find myself with a project in need of a Bisonic type pickup, I will definitely be ordering a Novak with the tap feature and I will try the potentiometer roll-off approach.

Matt R. · May 10, 2021

mellowgerman said:
It's essentially just an extra lead coming from the pickup that you can run to ground, to eliminate a portion of the coil. The full coil is the vintage Hagstrom Bisonic voicing (higher output, warmer, woodier, bassier) and once you reduce the number of winds by running the extra lead to ground, you get the DarkStar voicing (lower output, more articulate/clear, more treble frequencies). You can wire this up with a push/pull pot, toggle switch, rocker switch, slider switch, etc.
Sidenote! I have yet to try this, but in theory, you should also be able to wire it up to a traditional potentiometer, which would act like a volume control, effectively allowing you to pan between the two voicings. I never ordered a Novak direct with the coil tap, though I kick myself for not having done so. My Serek Midwestern, which showed me just how cool and useful the tap feature is, has it wired to a push/pull pot, but I plan to keep that bass all original, so won't be messing with the wiring there. Next time I find myself with a project in need of a Bisonic type pickup, I will definitely be ordering a Novak with the tap feature and I will try the potentiometer roll-off approach.

Got it, thanks!
I assume it’s basically the same thing that came stock on my Starfire that I’m modding here?

mellowgerman · May 10, 2021

Matt R. said:
Got it, thanks!
I assume it’s basically the same thing that came stock on my Starfire that I’m modding here?

Not exactly, since the Novak coil-tap affects the one and only coil of the pickup, reducing the number of winds. The new Starfire I bass's push/pull is most likely a series/parallel switch between the two separate coils of the Precision-style pickup. The series/parallel allows you to run one coil into the other (series and humbucking, like a normal precision pickup) for stronger mids or both coils separately/independently (parallel) which creates a sort of mid-scoop and overall lower output.
If I'm wrong about it being a series/parallel switch though, then it's just some kind of choke circuit, which doesn't really do anything but take away frequency from your signal.

With the Novak's coil tap engaged actually results in more treble frequency coming through. In that sense it's adding to the top end, while simultaneously sculpting off some low-end; in a sense giving you the choice between two different single coil pickups.

Default · May 10, 2021

Since it's "today", you can probably shoot Curtis an email and modify your order.

lungimsam · May 10, 2021

He will also wire it up humbucking for you if you ask.

Matt R. · May 17, 2021

The Curtis Novak is on the way to me already. I just paid WD for my custom pickup surround, so that’s underway too. I hope this all works out.

Matt R. · May 17, 2021

Oh yeah- can someone be kind enough to recommend the correct type of push/pull pot for the coil tap on a Curtis Novak pickup?
It’s not for this project, it’s for a single coil PBass that I’m gonna modify for the BS-DS. It needs to be solid shaft. I haven’t decided on 250K or 500k yet though.
Thanks!

mellowgerman · May 17, 2021

Matt R. said:
Oh yeah- can someone be kind enough to recommend the correct type of push/pull pot for the coil tap on a Curtis Novak pickup?
It’s not for this project, it’s for a single coil PBass that I’m gonna modify for the BS-DS. It needs to be solid shaft. I haven’t decided on 250K or 500k yet though.
Thanks!

I would go with 250k linear. This will give you the smoothest and most gradual volume roll-off. That said, there are some folks who prefer 500k for a brighter tone (or no pot at all so the signal is 100% uninhibited), but the difference in tone is very subtle in my experience

Matt R. · May 17, 2021

mellowgerman said:
I would go with 250k linear. This will give you the smoothest and most gradual volume roll-off. That said, there are some folks who prefer 500k for a brighter tone (or no pot at all so the signal is 100% uninhibited), but the difference in tone is very slight in my experience

Thanks man. I’ll probably go with 250k since I’m used to it. So just any linear 250k push/pull will do?

Matt R. · May 17, 2021

Specifically, I’m confused about the whole “dpdt vs spdt” thing. Which do I need?

Matt R. · May 17, 2021

Ok, did a little research and I found what I need to know. DPDT it is. The Lindy Fralin site has a great breakdown of how these switches work.

Matt R. · May 19, 2021

Pickup is here.
Dumb question- I assume red is hot and black is ground. But does that outer braided portion need to be grounded as well?
I’d email Curtis Novak but that guy can’t be bothered to respond.

mellowgerman · May 19, 2021

Matt R. said:
Pickup is here.
Dumb question- I assume red is hot and black is ground. But does that outer braided portion need to be grounded as well?
I’d email Curtis Novak but that guy can’t be bothered to respond.

If there is only black and red, then red would typically be used for hot. In this case though, since you have a separate shield, and are only using one pickup, it actually doesn't make a difference! Just be sure to join whichever you choose as ground with the shield and then solder to your master ground

Matt R. · May 19, 2021

mellowgerman said:
If there is only black and red, then red would typically be used for hot. In this case though, since you have a separate shield, and are only using one pickup, it actually doesn't make a difference! Just be sure to join whichever you choose as ground with the shield and then solder to unity ground

Thanks! So you’re saying to actually solder the black to the outer shielding, then both to ground?

mellowgerman · May 19, 2021

Matt R. said:
Thanks! So you’re saying to actually solder the black to the outer shielding, then both to ground?

Yup! The shield braid is most likely soldered to the chrome shell of the pickup, so that is grounded. It technically doesn't have to be joined with your ground wire immediately but eventually they should go back to the same ground point. Wasn't sure what the word is... "unity" or "master" ground... you know the big blob of solder on the volume pot that all the grounds go back and join to.
The reason to have the shield and ground separate initially is so that you can do series/parallel and phase wiring freely, without having to worry about the shield (if that makes sense)

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