What strings do you use on your Guild?

[kydave]

Ador:

Re:

I always went with the Guild mediums (.012-.053)

Does Guild really call lights mediums? Is that their own brand?

Anybody who's played for a long time would consider mediums for acoustic guitar to be .013-.056. Lights are .012-.054 and heavy is .014-.057 or .058. (we won't even mention the girly electric guitar string gauges that some folks attempt to use on acoustics - things below .012... :wink: )

Ah, I feel better. I google Guild Strings and found that Guild M450 phos/brnz are a true medium at .013-056. What .012-.054 set do they call "medium"?

 

[JerryR]

AND JUST TO GET BACK ON TOPIC...

:shock: :shock: Must be new here. :wink:

Welcome adorshki!

+1

 

[kostask]

Funny you should mention those, kostas, they're made right here in Battle Creek, Michigan, not far from where I live. Maybe I should give them another try & support what's left of the local manufacturing sector :roll:

To follow up on my posting above, I think the added stiffness or tension of the GHS Signature Bronze Lights (SBL) drives the guitar top harder, yet the smaller diameter of the treble strings still allows for good treble tone. What I think is happening with my cedar/mahogany (all solid wood, by the way) dread, is that the extra tension is putting too much tension on the top, and damping the vibration. This might be an indication that this particular guitar top was actually tuned for light strings, and the higher tension of the GHS SBLs just doesn't work on this guitar. I have tried the SBLs on a Simon and Patrick cedar topped/wild cherry laminate back and sides guitar, and they worked really well.

Kostas

 

[adorshki]

HI KYDAVE you got me, I always considered the L350's (012-.053) to be mediums 'cause they offered a lighter set (Like came on my F65CE) but yeah technically I realized they're actually Lights.
BUT have you seen a set with .025 G string lately? And Kostask mentioned the issue of how different tops/necks are designed with an optimal string tension in mind to which I can only say "second that". My understanding is that you actually want as much looseness in the top as possible to enhance movement.
Thanks for all the welcomes, guys, and I can take a little flamin' and I'll loosen up a little more once I got a couple beers in me!

 

[kydave]

Adorshki,
I'm not sure what you're saying. Do you specifically want a .025 on the G for some reason?
Dave

Koshtask,
Re:

...this particular guitar top was actually tuned for light strings...

What guitar make & model are you talking about? None of the major manufacturers other than those that are closer to the boutique makers "tune" their tops.
Dave

 

[kostask]

Adorshki,
I'm not sure what you're saying. Do you specifically want a .025 on the G for some reason?
Dave

Koshtask,
Re:

...this particular guitar top was actually tuned for light strings...

What guitar make & model are you talking about? None of the major manufacturers other than those that are closer to the boutique makers "tune" their tops.
Dave

It is a 1980-1982 Lys L10 guitar built in La Patrie, Quebec, Canada. This eventually, after a number of twists and turns became what is now known as Lasido or Godin guitars (makers of Norman, Seagull, Simon and Patrick, and Art & Lutheries guitars on the acoustic side, and Godin and a couple of other brands on the electric side). Can't say for sure that the guitar was tuned for light strings, but it sure is reacting that way.

Designer of this line of guitars was Claude Boucher (look up Boucher Guitars, he's one of the principles). I have 8 of these Lys guitars, in various wood combinations (the only cedar topped one is the L10, and the L10-12 12 string), and the only one that doesn't like the GHS Sig. Bronze Lights is this cedar topped one.

Kostas

 

[adorshki]

HI Kydave: Yeah I admit this is partial hypothersis/partial experience. Why I like .025's: I used to have a problem with notching on the frets and easy breakage with .024 G's on my first lo-buck steel string guitar. I discovered .025's always lasted longer so I always bought the extra string and substituted it in and got used to them. When I got my D-25 I discovered Guild's L350 set spec'd for the guitar came standard with the .025 (at that time, late 90's,) I thought, "gee maybe they know something the other guys don't." I DO know that the slight extra tension required will make that string a little louder than an .024. Was that intentional on their part to enhance the even string volume balance perhaps? So yeah I specifically look for sets with an .025. Breakage hasn't been a real issue for years though. Notching still is but not as much.
Also I didn't take KYdaves observation about tuned tops litereally as in shaved/carved like violins and archtops, I just thought he meant the thickness was optimzed for an intended string tension which I suspect is another of Guild's intentional design process at least during the Westerly era.
I'm putting this in the forum instead of PM 'cause I think it'll give folks food for thought about all the issues involving strings besides just tone. Also I'd still be curious if anyone knows if Fender changed supppliers or just the string mix after the move to Corona. Hans perhaps?
Al

 

[adorshki]

Whoopsie sorry got Kydave mixed up with kostask re: tuned tops and what's worse it's got the signature I decided wasn't right on it, and I couldn't catch it to edit in tiime. Oh well I'm still learning.
Al

 

[jcwu]

You may also want to try some coated strings.
They will last a lot longer than uncoated strings but I feel that you loose a bit of tonal quality with most coated strings.
The exception for me is D'Addario EXP's in PB.
These strings sound great but they don't last as long as Elixor strings do.

I found myself liking the sound of my strings about halfway between new and the point where they're too grimy to play. New strings just sounded too bright/jangly to me (personal preference).

So I went with the D'Addario EXP's, because people were complaining that coated strings sounded somewhat dull. They're now my default go-to strings for acoustics. I didn't get them for the longevity - I got them for the "broken-in" sound.

 

[kostask]

HI Kydave: Yeah I admit this is partial hypothersis/partial experience. Why I like .025's: I used to have a problem with notching on the frets and easy breakage with .024 G's on my first lo-buck steel string guitar. I discovered .025's always lasted longer so I always bought the extra string and substituted it in and got used to them. When I got my D-25 I discovered Guild's L350 set spec'd for the guitar came standard with the .025 (at that time, late 90's,) I thought, "gee maybe they know something the other guys don't." I DO know that the slight extra tension required will make that string a little louder than an .024. Was that intentional on their part to enhance the even string volume balance perhaps? So yeah I specifically look for sets with an .025. Breakage hasn't been a real issue for years though. Notching still is but not as much.
Also I didn't take KYdaves observation about tuned tops litereally as in shaved/carved like violins and archtops, I just thought he meant the thickness was optimzed for an intended string tension which I suspect is another of Guild's intentional design process at least during the Westerly era.
I'm putting this in the forum instead of PM 'cause I think it'll give folks food for thought about all the issues involving strings besides just tone. Also I'd still be curious if anyone knows if Fender changed supppliers or just the string mix after the move to Corona. Hans perhaps?
Al

You are correct, I was referring mostly to the thickness of the top plate/soundboard. The guitar dates from about 1980-1982, and cedar tops were not in common use for steel strings at the time. I think (just my thoughts) that the cedar top was thinned to the same thickness as the spruce tops, and with cedar having a somewhat lower stiffness to weight ratio, it just can't handle the extra tension of the GHS strings. I can say that the braces are the same in all dimensions between the other spruce topped Lys guitars, and this cedar topped one.

Kostas

 

[curt]

I'm a bit surprised I didn't see many using John Pearse Strings. I really like them on all my Guilds and seem to hold the tone longer compared to many brands I've tried.

 

[chazmo]

Curt, I like JPs too. In general, I'd have to say that I stick mostly with D'Addarios.

I don't play my guitars a ton, and I find that even the coated strings get gritty and smelly over time, so that's not a big factor for me. Even so, I have mostly EXPs on my guitars right now.

I really do enjoy trying new strings on each guitar to see what takes best.

 

[bighouse]

While I do like John Pearse and D'Addario EXPs, my hands have such acidic(?) sweat that I can kill a set of uncoated strings in half an hour, a set of EXPs in one set. So I've settled on Elixir nanowebs (med) as the most cost-effective solution. In terms of longevity, in my hands, nothing else has come close, and while they do sound different than D'Addarios and JPs, I have come to appreciate their sound. They've come along way since those first generation, condom-wearing strings of yore.

 

[JerryR]

I guess I average 5 hours playing time a week (mixture of fingerpicking and some hard strumming with a thumb pick) and I'm about to change a set of D'Addario lights I reckon I put on 6 months ago. Elixirs would have gone in a month. OK the tone had deadened a bit on the strings but they are still holding their tuning well and I'm too mean to change them unless they break - except I'm playing in a new venue Monday night so want the guitar to sound as good as it can (even though the guitarist is cr*p). Much of the playing time is practise but when playing live my hands sweat from sheer raw fear :mrgreen:

 

[sitka_spruce]

My favourite strings are GHS Signature Bronze in Light (LJ30L, LJ being Laurence Juber; these were designed in cooperation with him). They are noticeably stiffer than most light strings (D'addarios for example), but I find that they seem to have a wider tonal range. It is probably related to the cryo treatment they get, or the construction (core wire vs. wrap wire ratio), but they do well reproducing both bass and trebles. They also seem to last somewhat longer than other PB strings, but nowhere near what Elixirs do.

I also use the GHS Laurence Juber. I'm a huge fan of those. They have sort of a punch that go well with the fat sound of the Guilds - as well as Larrivees and other Canadian brands.

These are stiffer since they are cryohardened, which makes for a cleaner and more dynamic string.

I would go with Lights on anything up to Mini Jumbos and w. Mediums on dreadnoughts and Super/ fullsize Jumbos.

 

[Appalachian Blues]

I think I'm sold on John Pearse strings for the Guilds. I'm using 80/20 bronze light ga. on both and one thing that stands out for my playing, I haven't broken a single string, not even on the 12er.
Plus, after 3, 3 plus hour gigs, they still sound good.
Yesterday, I took the 12 string to the Athens Farmers Market (Athens, Ohio) and played from 10 am til 1 pm. The sun started baking down and the tops' finish got so warm, it left pick drag marks. I'm using Guild heavy picks that are black. But the strings held up, stayed in tune. By the way, a couple guitar afficiandos made cool comments on the big 12 sound. You know what I said...."of course, it's a Guild". One of them went as far as told me he had once played a Guild acoustic and loved it.....you know what I said....."you gotta get your own man!!"
I'm gigging tonight from 7-11 pm, I'll let you know how the JP's hold up tonight.
Billy

 

[Terry Allan Hall]

While I agree w/ kostask about that the Juber GHS sets are very good, I like Elixer Poly lights even better on my various Guilds/Taylors...they sound like a nicely broken D'Addario set and keep sounding like that for months (one of my JF-4s I left w/ the same set until I finally broke the G-string...after 14 minths! :shock: ).

If I can find neither, the D'Addario J-16 set'll do OK, too.

 

[West R Lee]

I'm a bit surprised I didn't see many using John Pearse Strings. I really like them on all my Guilds and seem to hold the tone longer compared to many brands I've tried.

Hey, they're my main strang.....I just felt folks get burned out on my talking them up. JP's are all I'll use on most of mine.

West

 

[Graham]

I'm a bit surprised I didn't see many using John Pearse Strings. I really like them on all my Guilds and seem to hold the tone longer compared to many brands I've tried.

Hey, they're my main strang.....I just felt folks get burned out on my talking them up. JP's are all I'll use on most of mine.

West

Same here!

Just yesterday though I stung up my F-47RCE with Thomastik Infeld Spectrums.

The jury is still out on the sound, but due to the cost I think these are going to the gallows.

 

[Jeff]

.......
Same here!

Just yesterday though I stung up my F-47RCE with Thomastik Infeld Spectrums.

The jury is still out on the sound, but due to the cost I think these are going to the gallows.

Much the same experience when I put a set of Thomastik Infield Spectrums on my GF 60. GF 60 didn't like them at all.

Lately I've been using "cryogenic activated" Dean Markley Blue Steels. Dunno if freezing them really makes the difference, however to my tin ear they do have a distinctive sound & feel.