New strings, cleaning, etc...with photos

[cjd-player]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Looks good, Q.

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

I have a spot on my 1981 Martin D-35 where my arm rests.
I have not been able to make it look like the rest of the top for years.
I looked at the Taylor video and tried the Turtle Wax, and it worked.
I use Roche-Thomas Fingerboard Oil on the fret board and bridge.
This was recommended by a Luthier/Violin maker and I have used it for over 20 years.

I also use lighter fluid [Naphta] to do spot cleaning as needed.

 

[fronobulax]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Best advice is to use products that state they are compatible with your finish.

Probable veer and probably not in the best topic area either, but...

The problem with that good advice is you actually have to know with some certainty what the finish is. I don't. How do I find out with certainty or is there one product that is compatible (i.e. will not harm) with all finishes?

If there is no general answer feel free to be specific about the guitars in my sig

 

[Bikerdoc]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Ya, I use carnuba wax. It works great and keeps the guitar clean and shiny for quite a long time. The less often you have to polish an older guitar the better. Just wipe it down after each playing and you shouldn't have to use it very often (I don't use wax more than once or possibley twice a year). When polishing apply it sparingly though and polish small areas at a time, especially if there's any crazing or finish cracks on the instrument (like with my D-35). Any type of wax can get down into the finish and make things worse. To avoid this I use a paste rather than liquid and an extra fine microfiber cloth, which picks up excess wax more efficiently, rather than cotton.

Have fun. Cleaning up a new/old guitar for the first time is one of the great joys of any serious guitar obsessive.

That's waht I've been doing since I got that tip right here on the forum awhile back; limiting the frequency of polishing. Wiping the guitar down after each session is the best advice I got a dozen years ago. Heck, I even do that before I play as well.
As for polishing:

To avoid this I use a paste rather than liquid and an extra fine microfiber cloth, which picks up excess wax more efficiently, rather than cotton.

However, I use the liquid because the cloth can soak up the excess in lieu of the cloth rubbing the paste into the finish cracks. Just my preference of course.

Peace

 

[chazmo]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Frono, your D-25 is almost certainly a nitrocellulose lacquer finish. I don't know about the others.

 

[Paddlefoot]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

For nitro with a haze, swirl or general crud I have found that an old hot rod trick works well. I use the microfiber cloths though the old times used cotton flannel. Any good pure carnuba wax(Mothers, Mcguires, Classic) that does not list cleaners in it. You want just a straight up wax. For the actual cleaning use an old film canister with a few holes punched in the lid as a shaker for corn starch. Dust the surface to be polished with the corn starch, get a little wax on your cloth and polish until the wax haze disappears. The corn starch will cake up on the cloth as the surface gets cleaned and polished but it's abrasive quality breaks down too and leaves the surface a high gloss and swirl free if you polish in straight lines or very lightly in a circular motion.
I use the 3m greenie scrubbers instead of steel wool. No matter how careful you are you are just about guaranteed to get steel wool some where you don't want it.

 

[adorshki]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

I have a spot on my 1981 Martin D-35 where my arm rests.
I have not been able to make it look like the rest of the top for years.
I looked at the Taylor video and tried the Turtle Wax, and it worked.
I use Roche-Thomas Fingerboard Oil on the fret board and bridge.
This was recommended by a Luthier/Violin maker and I have used it for over 20 years.
I also use lighter fluid [Naphta] to do spot cleaning as needed.

I have that same problem on my D25, visible at certain angles. It's the result of the salts/acids in your sweat on the nitro. Might try that Turtle wax. Thanks TMG!

 

[adorshki]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Best advice is to use products that state they are compatible with your finish.

Probable veer and probably not in the best topic area either, but...
The problem with that good advice is you actually have to know with some certainty what the finish is. I don't. How do I find out with certainty or is there one product that is compatible (i.e. will not harm) with all finishes?
If there is no general answer feel free to be specific about the guitars in my sig

Hi Frono: I've never seen another finish listed or mentioned for Westerly era Guild acoustics other than nitrocellulose, the topic has been covered extensively in this forum. Recently on the electric forum someone mentioned their Westerly era electric was nitro also,so I'd be willing to bet all your guitars are nitro, but a pm to hans should get that question settled with certainty, assuming they haven't been re-finished already. Beyond that there are tests. It's in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15197&hilit=corona
Having given that qualification, I have an old bottle of Martin's that states "safe for all finishes" and lists only water and fine oils in the ingredients. The important thing to look for is silicone. Unfortunately there seems to be some debate as to whether or not it's present in some polishes even though it's not listed. By comparison a lot of "furniture" polishes DO list it. And again the silicone won't damage the finish itself, it's the issue of potentially contaminating the wood through cracks in the finish. Silicone in particular makes refinishing virtually impossible if it can't be completely removed from the surface to be refinished.
Anyway no harm in repeating this info for those who are just starting to get into the subject.

 

[Qvart]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Looks good, Q.

Some pics from cleaning and restringing:

Fretboard grooves:

Marks on the heel from a stand - not too bad. Have to turn it in the light to really make them out:

Back and sides, to show the 'hog:

Side, binding, and top:

Top, all shined up:

Strung up. I guess the turquoise isn't all that bad. Gives it a little hint of color without being gaudy:

Oh yeah - the date stamped on the underside of the top is May 3, 1982. That's nearly a full year before the neck block stamp.

I got to play a bit yesterday - the strings definitely bring out the highs and it's a bit brighter than before. However, it is much more resonate and the sustain is vastly improved. Those were some very dead strings!

Okay, time to put this thread to rest. Thanks again!
-Geoff.

 

[killdeer43]

Geoff,

Great in-depth (no pun intended) photo tour of a sweet guitar. Looks like the two of you did some serious bonding in the process of cleaning, restringing, etc. Gotta love the D35! :wink:

Cheers,
Joe

 

[Bill Ashton]

Q, looking at your fretboard wear, it appears similar but not as bad as that on my '94 Gibson J-30...if that is the only place you find it, then it just means the former user spent a decent amount of time playing with "cowboy chords." Adds a little mojo, not unlike the dark stains you see on the maple neck of an old strat or tele. I will confess as to perhaps not using a fingernail clipper as often as I should, probably it was the same for your D35's former owner. Looks pretty, hope you enjoy her...

 

[bluesypicky]

Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Back and sides, to show the 'hog:

Now THAT looks like hog!!! (Unlike some rosewood looking JF48 recently debated.... 8) :wink: :| )

 

[Qvart]

Looks like the two of you did some serious bonding in the process of cleaning, restringing, etc. Gotta love the D35!

Yep, did a close inspection over every inch of it. When I met the seller to look at it I pulled the strings to the side to check the frets, but didn't notice the grooves in the wood. Ah well, frets are still decent. Just gotta remember not to jam the strings down too far and to let the frets do the work. The guy I bought it from was the second owner, so I don't know if it's from him, the original owner, or both. He had it setup to make it easier for him to play, so maybe he was overdoing fretting the notes a bit. It does take a little more effort to play than the '01. Neck is a bit chunkier. Reminds me of the '70-something D25 I checked out this past summer, which is a good thing because I really dug that one.

Now THAT looks like hog!!! (Unlike some rosewood looking JF48 recently debated.... 8) :wink: :| )

I didn't see that thread, but then again I skip a lot of acoustic discussions around here until I have something I'm interested in!

Love the dark maroon color of that 'hog, and the color of the spruce top has aged nicely. Everything is so much deeper and darker than the '01 I sold.

 

[bluesypicky]

I didn't see that thread, but then again I skip a lot of acoustic discussions around here until I have something I'm interested in!

Hey, hey!!! Name only one thread susceptible not to interest everybody here, would you????
:lol: :lol:

 

[Bill Ashton]

"Just gotta remember not to jam the strings down too far and to let the frets do the work."

Uh, this isn't a medival lute valued at six figures, its a Guild and its "made to be played!" While I certainly would not abuse her, I also would not finger the fretboard delicately so as to avoid and wear. Steel strings on frets are gonna cause wear and those sharp things on the ends of your fingers will eventually wear the rosewood. Play 'er hard and let 'er sing! (just don't put her away "wet" )

 

[bluesypicky]

+1 Bill.... and then again, one of my older brothers (in action here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4kvc5nWXRs) might argue that even a medieval lute is meant to be played....

Players are players, collectors are collectors, different folks etc.....

 

[Qvart]

Uh, this isn't a medival lute valued at six figures, its a Guild and its "made to be played!"

Trudat!!!

 

[dapmdave]

"Just gotta remember not to jam the strings down too far and to let the frets do the work."

Uh, this isn't a medival lute valued at six figures, its a Guild and its "made to be played!" While I certainly would not abuse her, I also would not finger the fretboard delicately so as to avoid and wear. Steel strings on frets are gonna cause wear and those sharp things on the ends of your fingers will eventually wear the rosewood. Play 'er hard and let 'er sing! (just don't put her away "wet" )

I agree. My D-30 has the same issue. Can't say I've noticed that it affects playability. Worn frets will eventually cause a buzz, but fingerboard divots (to a point, I guess) are marks of character!

Dave

 

[Paddlefoot]

When you get to refret time you can have the fingerboard resurfaced to get rid of the divots if they are not too deep. Then you get to work on your own mojo. Great D-35, enjoy her.

 

[Qvart]

When you get to refret time you can have the fingerboard resurfaced to get rid of the divots if they are not too deep. Then you get to work on your own mojo. Great D-35, enjoy her.

I saw a Stew-Mac article once about repairing divots like these with little strips of rosewood, but I don't think I'll ever do anything with them. And it's not really worth thinking about unless the day comes when it needs a refret. Given the amount I play acoustic the frets should last me a long, long time. Finding those grooves was just a tad of a downer, mainly because I didn't notice them when I first looked at it, and I looked it over pretty thoroughly. Doesn't make a difference to me really, or how I'll play it. This one just got me thinking about care and maintenance in general more than when I had the DCE1 because it's 26 years old and in really good condition. Just want to be sure to keep it that way!

Well, I've had this one now for a week or so and it feels more and more like my guitar. I dig the chunkier neck and the aged tone. It feels and sounds more like what I think of having in an acoustic than any of the others I've tried out lately. The next step (a ways down the road) will be a different saddle and a setup, although it's setup pretty good right now. The intonation isn't perfect, but it's not far out.

-G.