New strings, cleaning, etc...with photos

Qvart

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Hey look - I'm in the acoustic forum! ;)

And acting like a newbie who doesn't want to go sifting through old threads, so quickly:

I'm changing out strings and cleaning up the D35 a bit. In the case when I bought it was a bottle of Ax Wax Lemon Guitar Polish:

axwax.jpg


Looks like an old bottle.

Anyway, I also have these two products I got for cleaning/conditioning fretboards and polishing the nitro on the '70's solid bodies:

kysergibson.jpg


So quickly - I know it's been discussed a lot so we can keep it short - what to use on the fretboard and what to use to clean the body and neck? Or should I go the naptha route on some of this?

Thanks!


04.jpg
 

killdeer43

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Q,

First of all, that is one great looking D35 to break into the Acoustic forum! Very nice.
You'll probably get as many answers and links to old threads as there are members lurking, but I use Dr. Stringfellow products and I'm happy with them.

Rejoice a bit,
Joe
 

Qvart

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

killdeer43 said:
I use Dr. Stringfellow products and I'm happy with them.

Yeah, that has worked pretty well on my 'lectrics. Makes that old Brazilian (I'm guessing) rosewood fingerboard on the '74 S-100C shine like crazy!

I'm wondering more about the top and neck. Little cruddy spots here and there. Looks like a pretty light finish.

-Geoff.
 

Ian

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

That might be Ok for a new guitar like yours, but that Dunlop 65 didn't do diddly squat on my F30. I'm going to try one of those linseed oil types next...
 

adorshki

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

HI Qvart: Not being an electric guy I'm not sure what your electrics are finished with. The generic principle that's universally agreed upon here, relates to the fact that Westerly Guild acoustic guitars are finished with nitrocellulose laquer. Many polishes contain silicone. IF silicone penetrates any cracks in the finish it will contaminate the wood, making future re-finishing with nitrocellulose problematic. Best advice is to use products that state they are compatible with your finish. Knowing Killdeer, I'm sure his advice is very good as far as his experience with the products you already have... Just wanted to point out the single most important issue as it might relate to your future plans, in case they might include refinishing. Fretboard conditioning shouldn't be any different that what you already do. There's been lots of recent threads relating to the ideal conditioning agent, sorry don't have time to search and post a link.
Beautiful guitar by the way, Congrats!
 

killdeer43

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Geoff,

You are really on top of it, my friend. I see you already changed the photo down below your signature to include the D35! Impressive! :wink:

Joe
 

chazmo

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

As far as the fretboard goes, I use 0000 steel wool and then apply woodwind bore oil. I cover the soundhole before using the wool. Then, after I've worked the wool over the fretboard and cleaned the frets, I vacuum the wool shavings off the fretboard and body. Then I use some Bounty to just wipe the fretboard and bridge. Then I apply bore oil by placing a few drops on my finger and rubbing it in the whole length of the fretboard and bridge. Rosewood will tend to drink up more of the oil than ebony -- usually one pass for ebony or 2 or 3 times for rosewood. Essentially I wait until the fretboard stops absorbing it after letting it sit for a minute. Then I wipe the fretboard and bridge with Bounty.

I've use Murphy's oil soap to clean all other parts of a guitar before I polish in a few cases where the guitar needed it. Doesn't do anything for finish damage or caked on crud (I've heard naptha can help with that, but I've never used it).

I have a bottle of polish that I've been using for about 30 years. I only need a few drops of the the stuff when I apply it to my guitars. I apply it with a damp cotton sock. It hazes up a little and I buff it dry with a (clean) microfiber towel. I usually do all my polishing after I've finished treating the fretboard and done any cleaning of the rest of the guitar that's necessary.
 

Qvart

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Turtle Wax and mild dish soap, eh? High tech! ;)

I've seen the video about restringing. That string winder is cool but it would destroy the flares on these Guild headstocks. ;)
 

dapmdave

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Chazmo said:
As far as the fretboard goes, I use 0000 steel wool and then apply woodwind bore oil. I cover the soundhole before using the wool. Then, after I've worked the wool over the fretboard and cleaned the frets, I vacuum the wool shavings off the fretboard and body. Then I use some Bounty to just wipe the fretboard and bridge. Then I apply bore oil by placing a few drops on my finger and rubbing it in the whole length of the fretboard and bridge. Rosewood will tend to drink up more of the oil than ebony -- usually one pass for ebony or 2 or 3 times for rosewood. Essentially I wait until the fretboard stops absorbing it after letting it sit for a minute. Then I wipe the fretboard and bridge with Bounty.

I've use Murphy's oil soap to clean all other parts of a guitar before I polish in a few cases where the guitar needed it. Doesn't do anything for finish damage or caked on crud (I've heard naptha can help with that, but I've never used it).

I have a bottle of polish that I've been using for about 30 years. I only need a few drops of the the stuff when I apply it to my guitars. I apply it with a damp cotton sock. It hazes up a little and I buff it dry with a (clean) microfiber towel. I usually do all my polishing after I've finished treating the fretboard and done any cleaning of the rest of the guitar that's necessary.

+1 on the Murphy's Oil Soap. Works great. Be careful with silicone products, though. Don't spray directly on, and don't get it into any cracks.

Nice guitar!

Dave

Dave
 

chazzan

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

What has worked best for me is using a little very light polish like the Martin reissue 1997 type- then moist breath and a lot of dry clean flannel.

After this initial time I mostly use moist breath and flannel or old clean t-shirts.

I don't like those, heave gooey polishes, and lemon oil is good for fretboards, but can get in to cracks in the lacquer and make a mess.

by the way this comes from Dan Erlwhine (guitar player repair book)- I have tried his advice and he is right on IMO.

enjoy the new guit
 

Qvart

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

chazzan said:
by the way this comes from Dan Erlwhine (guitar player repair book)- I have tried his advice and he is right on IMO.

Can't go wrong with his tips. I have the one for setting up electrics.

Well, the project will be for tomorrow. Work interrupted me too much tonight, and I think I'll go buy some more supplies. However, the roomie has steel wool, and carnauba wax (if I want to try that). Anyone use it?
 

shepke

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Ya, I use carnuba wax. It works great and keeps the guitar clean and shiny for quite a long time. The less often you have to polish an older guitar the better. Just wipe it down after each playing and you shouldn't have to use it very often (I don't use wax more than once or possibley twice a year). When polishing apply it sparingly though and polish small areas at a time, especially if there's any crazing or finish cracks on the instrument (like with my D-35). Any type of wax can get down into the finish and make things worse. To avoid this I use a paste rather than liquid and an extra fine microfiber cloth, which picks up excess wax more efficiently, rather than cotton.

Have fun. Cleaning up a new/old guitar for the first time is one of the great joys of any serious guitar obsessive.
 

Qvart

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

shepke said:
Have fun. Cleaning up a new/old guitar for the first time is one of the great joys of any serious guitar obsessive.

Thanks again guys. Like I said, I know these issues have been discussed many times, but I like posting a question and getting some quick responses instead of just searching through old threads. And it seems some of you never tire of talking about these things!

So here's what I'm gonna do tomorrow:

1) Steel wool on the fingerboard
2) Dr. Stringfellow
3) Heavily diluted dish liquid
4) Carnauba wax

Just thought it was a good idea to revisit the topic before digging in as it appears someone has taken care of it. However, the previous owner didn't seem to be anywhere near an expert on anything, and I think he just kept it in its case or sitting in a stand for display a lot. The last thing I want is to neglect it so that finish issues or cracks develop. Which brings me to the next thing I have to pay attention to - humidity. The air is drying out here now since we finally had some sub-freezing nights.

Projects projects!

-Geoff.
 

taabru45

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

shepke said:
Ya, I use carnuba wax. It works great and keeps the guitar clean and shiny for quite a long time. The less often you have to polish an older guitar the better. Just wipe it down after each playing and you shouldn't have to use it very often (I don't use wax more than once or possibley twice a year). When polishing apply it sparingly though and polish small areas at a time, especially if there's any crazing or finish cracks on the instrument (like with my D-35). Any type of wax can get down into the finish and make things worse. To avoid this I use a paste rather than liquid and an extra fine microfiber cloth, which picks up excess wax more efficiently, rather than cotton.

Have fun. Cleaning up a new/old guitar for the first time is one of the great joys of any serious guitar obsessive.


My friend and excellent Luthier also uses any of the natural nut oils, or lemon oil on the fretboard , and mentioned getting carnuba wax cheap that you use to polish skis with....he has been using the same container for years... :wink: Steffan
 

Qvart

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Cleaning is done, and it shined up pretty good. I skipped the steel wool because the fretboard was fairly clean. Just used the Dr. Stringfellow on it. For the rest - diluted dish soap and Carnauba wax. A few of the little marks on the back buffed out. There is what looks like adhesive residue on the headstock but it won't come off. Looks like it's in the gloss. Anyway, all is well. Very pretty. The only thing I noticed that was a bit of a downer were some grooves in the fretboard wood from the strings between the second, third, and fourth frets. Like somebody clamped the damn strings down and pressed them into the wood. Ah well, so it goes.

I took a picture of the date stamp - born just before I turned nine:

D35datestamp.jpg




So I'm ready to put new strings on (got some D'Addario PB lights, .12's - pretty sure that's what I had on the DCE1). The end pins are chintzy plastic, and I'm thinking about running up the road to see what the shop has. What's good and not too expensive?
 

Qvart

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Qvart said:
So I'm ready to put new strings on (got some D'Addario PB lights, .12's - pretty sure that's what I had on the DCE1). The end pins are chintzy plastic, and I'm thinking about running up the road to see what the shop has. What's good and not too expensive?

My roommate has these ebony pins he said I can use. It would save me a trip up the road, but I'm not thrilled about the turquoise dots!

Bridgepins.jpg
 

Qvart

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Re: New strings, cleaning, etc.......

Qvart said:
My roommate has these ebony pins he said I can use. It would save me a trip up the road, but I'm not thrilled about the turquoise dots!


Everything's back together. Now to break in these strings!

newstrings.jpg
 
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