I recently picked up this 1958 M20. Obviously in need of some serious TLC.
Most obvious and serious issues are the split saddle and bridge pulling up from the soundboard.
Saddle came out with just a bit of tugging. With a bit of heat and gentle application of a putty knife and single edge razor, the bridge also came off fairly easily.
That revealed a more serious, but still fixable problem. A very compromised soundboard and bridge plate.
All that bondo has been removed, the bridge cleaned up and she's ready for the next steps. I'm of two minds on the bridge plate. Use a platemate to stabilize the bridge pad. Or add a maple shim over the existing damaged plate. I'll mull that over for several days. I'm afraid trying to remove the bridge plate may create more problems. If this was a really valuable vintage instrument then that would be the right approach. An M20 is a bit less obvious, at least to me. The sound board I will patch in some spruce (or mahogany if I can lay my hands on a small thin piece). The bridge will cover all that damage so it just needs to be structurally sound and flat.
Few more pics.
Once all the "big stuff' is done I'll tackle the headstock and decide yeah or nay on a pickguard (I'm leaning on yes).
FWIW even with all these issues it played ok and sounded great and for me the narrow nut, 1 5/8" is a bit cramped.
![](http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/M20%20restoration/m20%20front_zpsqd7emlpl.jpg)
Most obvious and serious issues are the split saddle and bridge pulling up from the soundboard.
![](http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/M20%20restoration/m20%20bridge%20front_zpsf8xtctxv.jpg)
Saddle came out with just a bit of tugging. With a bit of heat and gentle application of a putty knife and single edge razor, the bridge also came off fairly easily.
That revealed a more serious, but still fixable problem. A very compromised soundboard and bridge plate.
![](http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/M20%20restoration/m20%20bridge%20off_zpsrkjfmdkr.jpg)
All that bondo has been removed, the bridge cleaned up and she's ready for the next steps. I'm of two minds on the bridge plate. Use a platemate to stabilize the bridge pad. Or add a maple shim over the existing damaged plate. I'll mull that over for several days. I'm afraid trying to remove the bridge plate may create more problems. If this was a really valuable vintage instrument then that would be the right approach. An M20 is a bit less obvious, at least to me. The sound board I will patch in some spruce (or mahogany if I can lay my hands on a small thin piece). The bridge will cover all that damage so it just needs to be structurally sound and flat.
Few more pics.
![](http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/M20%20restoration/m20%20headstock%20front_zpsnest0m3b.jpg)
![](http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/M20%20restoration/M20%20label_zpsmipctjxx.jpg)
![](http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/M20%20restoration/m20_zpsrlfxrdka.jpg)
Once all the "big stuff' is done I'll tackle the headstock and decide yeah or nay on a pickguard (I'm leaning on yes).
FWIW even with all these issues it played ok and sounded great and for me the narrow nut, 1 5/8" is a bit cramped.
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