M20 project

[killdeer43]

Would love some help from the gang on this one. The waverly tuners are off, cleaned, polished and ready to go back on. But, first what to do with the headstock? It's been over painted and rather badly done. Original was satin finish, black with a silk screened, script style, Guild logo. Has anyone a source for a decal that looks like the old Guild logo? Other ideas for how to restore the look of the original headstock.

Here's the old head on my D4-12 that the previous owner apparently liked.

I wanted the more traditional look so I removed the tuners and totally refinished the head so it looks like what it is...a Guild.

It takes time, of course, but I like it.

Joe

 

[walrus]

Here's a Chesterfield headstock inlay on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guild-Guita...050061?hash=item280efb6c0d:g:~lIAAOSwcBhWavKx

walrus

 

[evenkeel]

Killdeeer. The headstock looks very good. Is that paint and a decal, or an overlay? If it's paint, what kind did you use?

 

[evenkeel]

Here's a Chesterfield headstock inlay on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guild-Guita...050061?hash=item280efb6c0d:g:~lIAAOSwcBhWavKx
walrus

The M20's (and F20's) of this era used the script style logo that was silk screened on. Hans was good enough to send me some good art work and I found someone to make me a waterslide decal that will be a very close match.

 

[AcornHouse]

The M20's (and F20's) of this era used the script style logo that was silk screened on. Hans was good enough to send me some good art work and I found someone to make me a waterslide decal that will be a very close match.

You might also have a go a photocopying one of the decals onto some card stock and seeing how you do with a x-acto blade to try to make a stencil.

 

[evenkeel]

You might also have a go a photocopying one of the decals onto some card stock and seeing how you do with a x-acto blade to try to make a stencil.

Good idea. Be worth a test on some scrap wood or even cardboard. Thanks.

 

[kakerlak]

You might also have a go a photocopying one of the decals onto some card stock and seeing how you do with a x-acto blade to try to make a stencil.

+1. The way that script logo is broken into segments makes me think it was likely a stencil & paint thing at the factory, rather than a silkscreen (which shouldn't have had any reason to be segmented).

 

[hansmoust]

+1. The way that script logo is broken into segments makes me think it was likely a stencil & paint thing at the factory, rather than a silkscreen (which shouldn't have had any reason to be segmented).

Actually that's what I thought (and that's what I wrote in 'The Guild Guitar Book'), but the silkscreen technique was suggested by one of the former workers and I'm definitely not knowledgeable in regard to that kind of stuff. I would think that somebody who's familiar with the various techniques should be able to tell by looking at one of these 'script' headstock logos.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl

 

[evenkeel]

So a few more items off the to do list.

I opted to do a partial refin on the top. The damage was so extensive and it just looked awful. Managed to blend in some satin lacquer and wet sand with micro mesh. Not perfect, but in my mind at least is an improvement. The black pickguard is not stuck on. I had one from an earlier project and laid it on just to see how it would fit. I have a vintage style pickguard on order from Guild Cordoba.


Here is a pic from Hans that shows a proper pickguard.


Headstock has been stained and a couple thin coats of lacquer applied. I have a waterslide Guild script style logo on order. The original was probably a stencil, not a silkscreen as I stated in a earlier post. Thanks for that. I am going to try and use one of the decals as a template and make a stencil. If that fails, then I'll stick with the decal.


and another pic from Hans that shows the proper logo.

 

[Neal]

Sweet project, evenkeel. I like what you did with the top a lot!

 

[evenkeel]

A bit more progress. Decal has been applied. First one I made a real hash out of. Second one was a lot better. Had a small, bit of a wrinkle that I was able to smooth out.

Pic was taken when the decal was still wet. After a few mist coats of lacquer and then a few regular coats and buffing the clear backing should be nearly invisible.

The pickguard was a lot easier. Guild Corona has a vintage style, with a self adhesive back. Tape hinge trick and a done deal in about one minute.


If all goes well i should have her back together, strung up and making music by Sunday.

 

[twocorgis]

Excellent work J! Looks like the neck angle is good?

 

[kakerlak]

This thing's looking good!

 

[evenkeel]

Excellent work J! Looks like the neck angle is good?

I think (and hope) so. The bridge was nearly half off when I bought it, so a bit hard to tell. Looked to have been stuck back on with rubber cement. Proof will be when I get her restrung.

 

[evenkeel]

So the M20 project is a wrap. As is usual if I could do it all over I might do a few things differently. But, all in all I'm pretty happy with the way it all turned out. Hans was a big help (as usual) with good advice and information. Several forum folks chipped in with some very good suggestions. Big thanks for that.

So here she is when I got her, bridge half off, saddle split, all kinds of hidden issues.



And how she looks now.



She has a wonderful, woody and a bit dark tone. The 1 5/8" nut is very narrow for me. I'm sure others would love that but it just feels very cramped. I doubt I will keep her but I love the fact this old Guild is back in pretty good shape and making music again.

 

[Westerly Wood]

super job, she looks great!

 

[kakerlak]

Nice sympathetic restoration, E.K.

 

[Treem]

Very nicely done.