F 512 Oh, No!!!

[JerryR]

Hey Brad - you're an American - can't you sue the Hercules Stand makers :wink:

 

[fab467]

Hey Brad - you're an American - can't you sue the Hercules Stand makers :wink:

:lol: :lol:

 

[Bill Ashton]

Brad, lets see it I can put practice into words...

This is how I would do a Fender 6-string; there may be some adjustment to this as I don't know how far apart the tuning posts are on the twelve:

Afix the string under the bridge pin as normal, lay it straight up the neck.

Cut the string approximately two tuning machines past the one you will wind it on.

(Unlike Gilded's suggestion) Align the tuner slot parallel with the string.

Place end of string into the hole in the tuner, and make a "soft" 90 deg bend in it; take the string out and with a pair of needle nose or parallel jaw pliers make a good 90 deg bend.

Place string end back in hole.

IF A WOUND STRING, then winder 'er up normally.

IF AN UNWOUND STRING, start winding the opposite way you normally would. When
you get halfway around, place the body of the string into the slot and start winding
the proper way. This will lock the string into place so it won't slip. Although it may not be necessary depending on the gauge of the unwound string, I have found that usually I have to do it on B's and E's.

Hope this helps. I have gotten used to the Fender Safety Tuners, but after a stint of not playing from the 70's until 1990, I had to learn this all over again, and the method above works much better than however hap-hazard I did it in the sixties...

Now, if I had just known about intonated Telecaster bridge saddles back then...

 

[chazmo]

Brad, I'll bet the Taylor method will work with the slotted tuner post... Cut the string with about 1.5" slack, etc... see http://www.taylorguitars.com/global/pdf ... string.pdf

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

After my guitar fell off it's stand and caused some finish issues, I changed out my old stands and went with these.

http://www.hamiltonstands.com/guitar/kb38.htm

I have been using them for over 10 years and I have not had a failure with one yet.
You don't need a locking system with it as it grips onto the guitar and holds it very securel around the neck, just under the headstock.
They are also great for other stringed instruments.

 

[adorshki]

OK I know not everybody has a hardshell case for each guitar, and some of you guys like to display 'em or have easy access, but I will stand by my hard-learned advice for anybody who cares: "There's only two places fit for a guitar. Your lap or its case."
Brad I don't mean to sound unsympathetic. Just puttin' it out there as some of the best advice I can give anybody who doesn't want to take ANY chances.
Even on a stand, the whole thing could get knocked over by some unlikely combination of circumstances, you know how it is...

 

[taabru45]

...........and always LOCK/LATCH the case, Unlike my at the time friend who played ;my newer F50 one time and replaced it in the case......he was TOLD it was ok to play it but to ALWAJYS LATCH the case after....he didn't, just replaced the guitar and closed the lid.......along came me, picked the case up by the handle .......top of case dropped open ....guitar dropped onto the top and one of the latched almost pierced the top......didn't crack the top but could have...........he wasn't home....my passifast self grabbed a bent back wooden chair and I SMASHED it against the floor so hard it shattered.........the neighbours for 5 houses in all directions were exposed to the F. word, even if their windows were closed......my friend denied playing it for about 2 weeks, because, "I was shaking in my boots.".......So always latch the case, and double check before you even lift it up.......my friend still lives........but it was close.................really really close....... :evil: :shock: Steffan

 

[adorshki]

...........and always LOCK/LATCH the case, Unlike my at the time friend who played ;my newer F50 one time and replaced it in the case......he was TOLD it was ok to play it but to ALWAJYS LATCH the case after....he didn't, just replaced the guitar and closed the lid.......along came me, picked the case up by the handle .......top of case dropped open ....guitar dropped onto the top and one of the latched almost pierced the top......didn't crack the top but could have...........he wasn't home....my passifast self grabbed a bent back wooden chair and I SMASHED it against the floor so hard it shattered.........the neighbours for 5 houses in all directions were exposed to the F. word, even if their windows were closed......my friend denied playing it for about 2 weeks, because, "I was shaking in my boots.".......So always latch the case, and double check before you even lift it up.......my friend still lives........but it was close.................really really close....... :evil: :shock: Steffan

I think we've shared this story before...happened to me with my D25, except...like Brad...I DID IT TO MYSELF! By the way, ever tried to slap yourself silly? Somehow just doesn't seem to make you feel any better.... :?

 

[devellis]

Brad -- Ouch! I feel your pain as another F512 owner. I like Hercules stands but I've found that with wider necks, I have to rotate the guitar a bit to ease the neck out between the pegs.

I also feel your pain about the string change. I face my first change with some trepidation. The strings are still good but I've been tempted to change them just to get over the baptism by fire. I've perfected my technique on conventional tuners (always neat and tidy) and the idea of going back to being a newbie is off-putting.

The Fender instructions were the most confusing thing I've ever seen. Members' recommendations make much more sense and they'll be the basis for how I approach swapping out the strings on my F512. On the plain strings, I may try putting the end down the hole, bending the string down so that it lies in the slot, wrapping it around the outside of the post 180 degrees, pulling it back into the slot, and then winding it up. That seems to be the equivalent of what someone else described, and it makes sense to me.

I think once I figure it out, I'll like the fact that there are no exposed string ends to jab me or scratch the face plate. But I hope I don't have either slipping unwound strings or sloppy-looking, wadded-up coils on the string posts before I perfect my technique.

 

[chazmo]

Try the Taylor method, guys. No exposed string ends. Should work on the slotted post, I guess.

 

[Brad Little]

"There's only two places fit for a guitar. Your lap or its case."

Good advice, but not possible in this situation, just not enough space for cases in the playing area, so I would have had to get up and move through a bunch of people carrying one guitar and then return with the other when I switched from 12 to 6. Usually I only bring one to this gathering, but felt like being able to switch this time.
Brad

 

[adorshki]

"There's only two places fit for a guitar. Your lap or its case."

Good advice, but not possible in this situation, just not enough space for cases in the playing area, so I would have had to get up and move through a bunch of people carrying one guitar and then return with the other when I switched from 12 to 6. Usually I only bring one to this gathering, but felt like being able to switch this time.
Brad

Still offering complete sympathy from this end. When guys spend that kind of money on NEW guitars they're generally pretty cautious. Didn't mean to imply anything else. Did you see I did it to myself once too?

 

[Brad Little]

Okay, so now it's day three and I still can't figure out how to replace a string. I've spent at least three hours total trying to fasten one string, tried all the suggestions from the group, and still no luck. Well, tomorrow I'm going to my luthier to have him smoothe out the damaged neck binding, maybe he can show me how it's done. It seems that most people say it's easier than with a traditional tuning post, but there must be a technique I can't grasp. Right now, I'm of the opinion that it was designed by a nefarious individual who wants to make all of us take our guitars to a shop to have the strings changed!
Brad

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

Does anyone have a picture that shows these tuners?
I don't have a clue what they are like.

 

[Brad Little]

Does anyone have a picture that shows these tuners?
I don't have a clue what they are like.

No picture, maybe tomorrow I'll take one. But, think of your regular garden variety tuning post. Then cut a slot in the top that goes a third or half way down. Instead of a hole through the post, there's a hole in the bottom of the slot. That's the best I can describe it.
Brad

 

[Bill Ashton]

IIRC, these are a Gotoh version of the old Fender "safety" tuning post. The style is what is found on virtually every pre-William Schultz Fender guitar (1985?) before they went to the Schaller-type tuners; you still see them on the "vintage" reissue models. I think that once you get the technique down Mark, you will probably like them.

 

[chazmo]

There's a picture of the slotted-post Gotoh tuners in Devellis post here: viewtopic.php?t=17821

 

[Taylor Martin Guild]

So from looking at that picture, it looks like you need to pre cut the string and then install, wind and tune?

 

[fronobulax]

After my guitar fell off it's stand and caused some finish issues, I changed out my old stands and went with these.

http://www.hamiltonstands.com/guitar/kb38.htm

I have been using them for over 10 years and I have not had a failure with one yet.
You don't need a locking system with it as it grips onto the guitar and holds it very securel around the neck, just under the headstock.
They are also great for other stringed instruments.

I've been using one (or a predecessor that looks the same, but "It's a Hamilton") for 25-30 years. I've actually knocked the stand over a couple of times but there was no bass in the stand at the time. I just wasn't paying attention or being careful. I also had a near miss because I extended the arm that holds the guitar but forgot to tighten it all the way. It slipped a little when I put the bass in but I noticed it and just just didn't let go of the bass. I'd buy another if I needed two.

 

[Brad Little]

Just came back from my luthier, and he did a great job on repairing the cut binding. However, while there I noticed that there is also some damage to the finish on the end of the headstock, so it will be another day. This wasn't really visible until I looked at it under the strong light in his shop. He showed me the trick to using the slotted tuning peg-turn it really, really fast, as in with an electric string winder. I actually bought a cheap B&D electric screwdriver a couple of months ago, intending to get the string winder attachment, now all I have to do is find it (and get the winder).
I also dropped off my F-212. A couple of the octave strings are buzzing at the saddle, so he's going to ramp the bridge to increase the angle. Hopefully that will do it as I'd rather not have to raise the saddle. He's also going to replace the mini-Schallers that I had put on it 10 or so years ago with Waverly open back nickel tuners that I had. The Schallers are nice, but just too much weight on the headstock.
Brad