AHG octave mando build

AcornHouse

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And, to further muddy the waters, f-hole mandos can also be x-braced (all (most?) oval/round hole ones are x-braced). And those are symmetrical.

So, what is actually necessary and what is done because Lloyd Loar did it needs to be investigated.
And more acoustic archtops are built with x-bracing these days as well. The parallel-ish tone bars give that old style punchy fundamental dominant sound; x-braces give a more complex warm sound with richer overtones. Benedetto uses both but he feels the x-brace is a better, more modern, sound.

But, it's just another way to tailor the sound to the player's wants and needs.
 

AcornHouse

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And my wee-est plane is perfect for shaping the tone bars. Height is far more important than width, as far as strength goes, so it's easy to reduce mass from the sides.

IMG_2312.JPG
 

Nuuska

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In that last picture I can see a critical look in them kitty eyes . . .
 

AcornHouse

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Normally I just get some 3/4" mdf and make my molds from new sheets. Then I saw the prices these days! :oops: So, I drew upon my Yankee upbringing and raided my stash of scraps and offcuts from previous molds.

🎵
Damn it feels good to be a hoarder,
A real hoarder New Englanda keeps his scraps right,
A real hoarder New Englanda never throws away
'Cause a real hoarder New Englanda stays tight,
And New Englanda always got the right scrap,
Showing all his boys how he saved 'em. 🎶

I made up a mosaic of mdf bits on a 1/4" ply base. Routed to a master template I'd already made and then sandwiched to full thickness.

IMG_2339.JPG

IMG_2353.JPG
 
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Nuuska

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And my wee-est plane is perfect for shaping the tone bars. Height is far more important than width, as far as strength goes, so it's easy to reduce mass from the sides.

IMG_2312.JPG

That is a quite nifty IBEX plain - I have one IBEX + one GEWA - they were given to me as memories of my good friend, who did not wake up this morning. He was violin repair man. I have held some extremely expensive violin bows in my hands in his workshop - well not millions worth - but anyway.

Whenever I see picture of those I remember him.

The bigger one on the left has base length of 45mm - the smaller one is 31,5mm - about 1,25 inches
The gray GUILD thingy is from the original case of my foolishly sold 1963 DE400
The F512 model is something I bought in USA 40-48 years ago.

Picture is dark because midnight starts creeping in.

IMG_5808.jpg
 

AcornHouse

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That is a quite nifty IBEX plain - I have one IBEX + one GEWA - they were given to me as memories of my good friend, who did not wake up this morning. He was violin repair man. I have held some extremely expensive violin bows in my hands in his workshop - well not millions worth - but anyway.

Whenever I see picture of those I remember him.

The bigger one on the left has base length of 45mm - the smaller one is 31,5mm - about 1,25 inches
The gray GUILD thingy is from the original case of my foolishly sold 1963 DE400
The F512 model is something I bought in USA 40-48 years ago.

Picture is dark because midnight starts creeping in.

IMG_5808.jpg
So sorry to hear that Timo. I’m glad you have those to remember him.
 

AcornHouse

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One of the fun :cautious: parts in any build of a new model is the time it takes to make molds, etc. So while I'm preparing the sides for bending, I also need to get cauls made for the sharper bends around the headblock, as well as the headblock itself. These can't just follow the outside mold, but need to be the thickness of the sides away.
I'm using mahogany for the headlock and some softer redwood for the cauls (one for each side).

20230422_125834.jpg
 
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AcornHouse

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First side got its time on the bending iron. A little slow going, but no problems, as I expected. Walnut is one of the easier woods to bend; although as this is very curly, I didn't want to go too fast and risk cracking it. No spares.
It'll probably need a little touch up bending at the sharpest bend at the headstock.

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AcornHouse

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Second side bent, much quicker than the first, as expected. Even though you've worked with a species before, always best to take it slow on the first go, as you learn the specific characteristics of that specific piece, and just how hard you can push it.
As I've said, walnut is very forgiving. If you even look at ebony too hard, for example, it will snap. That's why ebony binding comes at a premium.

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