AHG octave mando build
- Thread starter AcornHouse
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Exactly what I was thinking.The photographer...
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Time for the first measurements to see how much further I need to thin it down. Then more carving.
Is the objective to have uniform thickness throughout the entire arch, Chris?
Boy, I always figured that carving a top would be a ton of work. It seems I was right!
Boy, I always figured that carving a top would be a ton of work. It seems I was right!
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
No, it needs to be thickest at the top, 6-7mm, tapering down to 3-4mm and maybe a little less at the recurve.
And a lot of work if it’s done right. I’m sure there are many factory instruments that are just brought down to one thickness and left at that. If you’ve ever played an instrument (of any type) that was just dull and lifeless, you know. They are built to not need any warranty repairs, not to sound good.
Thanks, Chris.
In all honestly, I don't think I've ever played a carved-top instrument before. Well, anything in the guitar family, that is. I've played orchestral instruments (badly) with real carved tops (I think).
In all honestly, I don't think I've ever played a carved-top instrument before. Well, anything in the guitar family, that is. I've played orchestral instruments (badly) with real carved tops (I think).
Opsimath
Senior Member
Your builds are fascinating. I really appreciate all the information you share along the way.
How much time do you spend sharpening tools?
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Not enough. Probably 15 min to go through the various stones. But cedar, being a fairly soft wood, is easy on the tools and doesn’t dull them quickly. If this were maple, UGH!
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
My highly sophisticated rig for holding the top in place while I take my readings.
Aside from 2 or 3 areas that still need some work, we're in the ballpark of where I want to be, pre-sanding, which will take another 1mm or so off.
Aside from 2 or 3 areas that still need some work, we're in the ballpark of where I want to be, pre-sanding, which will take another 1mm or so off.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Symmetrical is the goal. The top moves as one, there really isn't a treble or bass side as far as the vibrations are concerned.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
Down to final thickness, sanded to 100, and wiped down with mineral spirits to look for any hidden areas. After it dries it'll get sanded to 180 and the f-holes cut.
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2009
- Messages
- 23,262
- Reaction score
- 19,055
- Location
- NJ (The nice part)
- Guild Total
- 112
I think the only things that outshine your fabulous tool collection are your patience and skill. And the cat.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
They're both beautiful, but the big long haired black cat lover in my thinks Maloof is just magnificent. He's even bigger than my boy Beau.Ah, but there are still many tools that I covet. I have a fair bit, but far fewer than many.
And cat should be plural. He may be shyer than his baby sister, (and trickier to photograph), but Maloof is far more beautiful than any tool.
ReevesRd
Senior Member
And I see "The Rounder" in the background! 
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
F-holes are chosen, sized, and laid out on the underside. Before I cut them out I'll glue some gauze over the area for reinforcement.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
The Great Big Book of Google Images.
AcornHouse
Venerated Member
This, btw, is the one I’m going with. I considered trying something different, more modern, but I just can’t resist the classic beauty of a traditional f-hole.
