S100 might get refinished, need advice on color

samdjr74 · Jan 1, 2010

Hi All,

I've been thinking about having my s100 refinished. It was stripped before I got it and some put on a really thick bad white finish that has runs, orange peal and a funky texture on the neck. My thoughts are I wouldn't mind having it painted in a Guild color but what options did Guild have on the s100's? I think mine is an early 70's because there's no coil tap switch and I'm not sure what's under the current paint but let's assume that the wood can't have a clear or transparent finish just in case.

Thanks,
Sam

hansmoust · Jan 1, 2010

Hello Sam,

Your best bet would be Black. It was an original color, you would be able to hide irregularities and it is a cool color.

Good luck!

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl

Qvart · Jan 1, 2010

samdjr74 said:
Hi All,

I've been thinking about having my s100 refinished. It was stripped before I got it and some put on a really thick bad white finish that has runs, orange peal and a funky texture on the neck. My thoughts are I wouldn't mind having it painted in a Guild color but what options did Guild have on the s100's? I think mine is an early 70's because there's no coil tap switch and I'm not sure what's under the current paint but let's assume that the wood can't have a clear or transparent finish just in case.

Thanks,
Sam

Trans green!!! (I know I'm predictable

)

Hans has said that green was always available, but the only green ones I've seen have been reissues. In the '70's they did: white, black, cherry, natural ("NB" or "Nature Boy" - like the two in my signature pic below - click it to enlarge), and sunburst. I like the trans finishes the best so I would pick natural, cherry, or sunburst over white or black, although I do like black as well. But given that it would be a refinish, a solid color might be best.

Good luck, and keep us updated!

dklsplace · Jan 1, 2010

I have an S-90 that arrived in similar condition to yours. I've painted it black & replaced the Guild peak logo that was missing. Needs a final buffing & a refret, but it's turned out pretty nice. I agree, for originality & a covering for defects, black is the easiest way to go.

As an experiment, I cut a new tortoise guard & installed a set of Filtertrons that I had on hand & I think I really like it this way.

Walter Broes · Jan 1, 2010

hansmoust said:
Black. (snip) it is a cool color

Agreed!

Hammer · Jan 1, 2010

Qvart said:
Trans green!!!

I like the way you think. :wink: But for this application, I'd have to go black as well.

Firebird · Jan 1, 2010

Black all the way!!

dogman · Jan 5, 2010

Speaking of colors!! Black is very cool. You have to make sure the body is straight because all the imperfections will show through. It sure did on my beat up Songbird. By the way.
Does anyone know where I can buy the Guild cherry color. To me the Stewmac Red Mahogny is just too dark.
dogman

samdjr74 · Jan 5, 2010

I was thinking of maybe stripping the finish off myself and seeing what's underneith it. I wouldn't mind going with a cherry or see thru finish but when I got the guitar there was a bag of parts in the case, one of those parts was a hagstrom vibrato which is making me think there was a big chunck of wood removed for the hagstrom then later filled to cover up the hole then painted in a really bad white paint.

Maxer · Jan 5, 2010

I have a black S-100 from '71. It's got a Hagstrom vibrato and it appears to be original equipment. When I got it a decade after it was made, it was missing its original tremelo bar and someone had stuck in an improvised bar made of aircraft aluminum. But as far as I can see, nothing on the body suggests that the tailpiece was an aftermarket addition/ mod.

Since I already have a black one, if I had another early S-100 to refinish, I think I'd opt for a transparent cherry look. I just love that look... totally classic. It would be worth it to me to go down to the wood and see what shape it's in... yeah, it's a lot of work, and black does a nice job of covering up flaws and it's going to be less of a headache to do... but a trans cherry S-100... well, I'm salivating at the thought.

In any case, regardless of what finish you choose, it might be cool if you shared your progress with us. Good luck, and post pix!

Qvart · Jan 5, 2010

samdjr74 said:
I was thinking of maybe stripping the finish off myself and seeing what's underneith it. I wouldn't mind going with a cherry or see thru finish but when I got the guitar there was a bag of parts in the case, one of those parts was a hagstrom vibrato which is making me think there was a big chunck of wood removed for the hagstrom then later filled to cover up the hole then painted in a really bad white paint.

If it did have a Hagstrom it would be cool to restore that if possible. What's the year/serial number?

samdjr74 · Jan 5, 2010

Qvart said:
samdjr74 said:

I was thinking of maybe stripping the finish off myself and seeing what's underneith it. I wouldn't mind going with a cherry or see thru finish but when I got the guitar there was a bag of parts in the case, one of those parts was a hagstrom vibrato which is making me think there was a big chunck of wood removed for the hagstrom then later filled to cover up the hole then painted in a really bad white paint.

Click to expand...

If it did have a Hagstrom it would be cool to restore that if possible. What's the year/serial number?

Don't know, the paint is so thick you can't read the serial number. It doesn't have the coil tap switch which looks like it was never there so I think it's an older model. I don't have the hagstrom anymore and finding one won't be easy

samdjr74 · Jan 5, 2010

Maxer said:
I have a black S-100 from '71. It's got a Hagstrom vibrato and it appears to be original equipment. When I got it a decade after it was made, it was missing its original tremelo bar and someone had stuck in an improvised bar made of aircraft aluminum. But as far as I can see, nothing on the body suggests that the tailpiece was an aftermarket addition/ mod.

Since I already have a black one, if I had another early S-100 to refinish, I think I'd opt for a transparent cherry look. I just love that look... totally classic. It would be worth it to me to go down to the wood and see what shape it's in... yeah, it's a lot of work, and black does a nice job of covering up flaws and it's going to be less of a headache to do... but a trans cherry S-100... well, I'm salivating at the thought.

In any case, regardless of what finish you choose, it might be cool if you shared your progress with us. Good luck, and post pix!

My only concern with refinishing is actually stripping the old finish off. I hate to use a chemical stripper as they all seem to be pretty nasty when it get's near the binding. Is there any other choices? Sanding sounds like it's just going to ruin everything if I go too far.

Qvart · Jan 5, 2010

samdjr74 said:
Qvart said:

samdjr74 said:

I was thinking of maybe stripping the finish off myself and seeing what's underneith it. I wouldn't mind going with a cherry or see thru finish but when I got the guitar there was a bag of parts in the case, one of those parts was a hagstrom vibrato which is making me think there was a big chunck of wood removed for the hagstrom then later filled to cover up the hole then painted in a really bad white paint.

Click to expand...

If it did have a Hagstrom it would be cool to restore that if possible. What's the year/serial number?

Click to expand...

Don't know, the paint is so thick you can't read the serial number. It doesn't have the coil tap switch which looks like it was never there so I think it's an older model. I don't have the hagstrom anymore and finding one won't be easy

If it did have a Hagstrom and no phase switch it's probably from '71. Too bad they weren't using the control cavity labels then. You can check the pots for dates, although they sometines used pots that were older than the guitar itself (per Hans). Also, my S-100's from '73 and '74 have dates on the underside of the pickups. You can look there as well.

adorshki · Jan 5, 2010

If the stripped finish allows it: Cherry #1, white #2. As Workdeinwesterly said, "We had a saying in the factory: We don't MAKE black guitars, black guitars HAPPEN" :lol:

samdjr74 · Jan 5, 2010

I tried to check the pot codes but they are completely covered in solder. I was thinking last night, maybe I can carefully strip the paint away by the serial number.

Qvart · Jan 5, 2010

samdjr74 said:
I was thinking last night, maybe I can carefully strip the paint away by the serial number.

Probably wouldn't hurt since you're going to refinish it anyway, and that'll be the only way to discover the serial number. I'd be interested to know if there are dates on the pickups. I think we're nearing the time for pics!!!

samdjr74 · Jan 5, 2010

I took some pics tonight of the guitar. Maybe someone can give me a better idea of the year from either the pickguard, caps or???

Hammer · Jan 5, 2010

Bah...that's one of those crappy late 90s reissues. Lemme take it off your hands for you. :wink:

Nah...no phase switch...'71 or '72...unless it was removed and the hole filled in before the refin...I think...but don't quote me on it.

Qvart · Jan 5, 2010

Hammer said:
Nah...no phase switch...'71 or '72...unless it was removed and the hole filled in before the refin...I think...but don't quote me on it.

Pickguard, headstock inlay, and TRC are all pre-'73 (at least). Almost definitely '71 or '72.

You know what ... that tailpiece looks like it's a little further back than it should be. I'm guessing that did have a Hagstrom on it. If you want take a measurement and I'll compare the bridge-tailpiece distance on mine.

And I still say the underside of the pickups are worth a look. Might be a date there, like so:

S100 might get refinished, need advice on color

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