Yaaay new gear day now with pics !!!!

adorshki

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Per your request:


And here are shots of the CV-1:

Y'know, looking at those shots, if I was the owner and didn't know it was "abnormal" and I liked the sound (and feel) of the guitar, I'd probably just shrug and think "That just must be the way they're built" . That gap along the extension is pretty tight to my eye, considering it's magnified, and my own D25 always had a little hump at the 16/17th, too.

Ray, were your gaps more severe? Knowing you though, even if they weren't, I get why you wanted to get it "perfect". If I had the tools/space/experience, I'd probably be tempted to do it myself, too.

Ah, just remembered, the whole point of the funky neck attachment was so that the "spider braces" attached to the neckblock could transmit neckblock vibration to the top to excite resonance.

So apparently the penalty is the shimming arrangement. Now I also realize the un-bonded 'board extension must be a necessity to facilitate neck removal, right?

Wonder what effect not having the board bonded to the top has, and then combined with the effects of the spider brace system to boot?

Have always wanted to try one of those out, and then somebody reminds me about the 1-3/4 nut....:sick::D
 

Rayk

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Per your request:


And here are shots of the CV-1:

Looks the hump is in the body . Man it looks the fretboard at end getting thicker . Lol mine has a nose dive . High E dead’s out 15 &16 th fret . So yeah mine gunna the need the Rayk factor. 🤣😂
 

JohnW63

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My Contemporary model has no serial number sticker, Ray, and you've seen and played it. Next time I change my strings, I have an idea to fix the last mm of neck hump. The neck needs to be stopped from going down perpendicular to the body by that much. I think a sliver of some material above the neck bolt , in the neck bolt hole in the "spider" should do it.
 

adorshki

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Oh, that thread... Yes, I've read it. I'm a tech/luthier, and have a customer that has a "reconditioned" CV-1 that I have worked on. That was my introduction to Guild Contemporary Series guitars, and I bought my CV-2 from him.

Both of mine are 2006 models. They are both great guitars with very different voices. Love the neck profiles and 1-3/4" nut.
Took a while for that to sink in, I think I do remember you mentioning that before, now. Glad to see you're still checking in!
 

marius

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Congrats Ray! Did you get it on Reverb? If so I had been really tempted to make an offer, and probably would have if it had been a burst. Glad someone here grabbed it.

Josh
 

Rayk

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Congrats Ray! Did you get it on Reverb? If so I had been really tempted to make an offer, and probably would have if it had been a burst. Glad someone here grabbed it.

Josh
Yes that’s the one . There is another one burst with a cutaway but ...... it’s 1900.00 bucks . YIKES ! That’s almost 3 more contemporaries at my buying rate . Lol plus it even had the red sticker of doom ! I think Lol
 

Rayk

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My Contemporary model has no serial number sticker, Ray, and you've seen and played it. Next time I change my strings, I have an idea to fix the last mm of neck hump. The neck needs to be stopped from going down perpendicular to the body by that much. I think a sliver of some material above the neck bolt , in the neck bolt hole in the "spider" should do it.
Yeah your right I just forgot who it went to . Lol

I was looking for pics but I can’t find them .
I don’t like the idea of shims . what I did unless you already know and it remember is , I taped the top with painters tape and got as close to the sides of the finger board as possible.
Then removed the neck and marked the area of the hump then carefully sanded it down .

I had to do some on the neck for angle . Of course I would keep putting the neck into place to make sure it was fitting right .

once done everything came out spot on . The only thing was if you looked the hump is still there but the fretboard was just sunk into it a bit but it was hard to notice to anyone that wasn’t looking for it .
One other thing is you just have make sure you can get the bolts in so you don’t want move the neck to far up or down .

That’s the way I’ll go on the CV-2 😊
 

Westerly Wood

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once done everything came out spot on . The only thing was if you looked the hump is still there but the fretboard was just sunk into it a bit but it was hard to notice to anyone that wasn’t looking for it .
"If it ain't got a sunken belly, it ain't worth playing..." Norman Blake

wait,

er,

I think Mr. Blake said his own quote re bellying a whole lot better than I just did...

yup, i was way off Ray...

Here is Dana Bourgeois quoting Norman Blake:

"Norman Blake once said, "Never trust a guitar if it doesn't have a belly". It's possible to build a top that stays flat forever, but we don't think you'd enjoy playing it for very long."
 

adorshki

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No that’s through bolting .
Thought that was the formal term for streaking, as in "Suspect was apprehended after attending his high school graduation and charged with through-bolting".

It happened to a, uh, buddy of mine. Yeah, that's it, a buddy.
:cautious:

But at least they cut him a little slack at the jail, skipped the strip search.
 

beecee

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No offense Ray as I know you are laid up but I'll post this in the BGUF thread.

1614673391795.png


EDIT: I'm a few days late. You're officially published there
 
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Rayk

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I’m bored again . Lol
I broke out the CV-2 . I’m liking what I’m hearing but man I’m going to have to take the neck off .
the hump at the fretboard is yucky . The high E dies around the 11th fret . The neck block has the RayK top hump. The fingerboard binding seats at the 14th where you would expect it to .
The neck relief looks right on . So sighting the fingerboard it looks like a long scallop up the 14th fret where it raises up then over the top Hump and starts a small scallop to the end .

there’s some spots under the extension that are catching some air between the top .

hoping for a easy fix . Bring forth the Dremel!!!
Lol
 
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