Which era holds the most interest?

[E-Type]

Assuming the same price (think $2,000), none need any significant work (refret or reset) but dings and cosmetics get you to the same market value. Which is your choice?

I know they can all be great, but they vary in construction and, obviously, age.

I love my lightweight ‘70 D-25 and heavy ‘74. However, just an 18oz weight difference means I can really focus on playing the ‘70, while the mass of the ‘74 makes playing it a little more challenging (and tiring after 2 hours of band practice).
I love Westerlies and how they all now have aged tops, but I find myself considering a later lightweight model.

Would the age of a 2005 or 2012 be a plus over the Oxnards? I hear so much about guitars opening up after 10-15 years, but is most of that psychosomatic? Do you value a bit of age?

I know they got lighter in Tacoma, but did meaningful structural changes occur in New Hartford or Oxnard?

I’m interested in how all of this factors into your final interest in each generation.

And yes, I know I’m mainly asking those members that have owned lots of Guilds.

 

[Muckman]

Not to say I haven't loved the heavier built Westerly Guilds I have owned - my first was a 1980 D40 that inspired me to own multiple Guilds - the lighter built Westerly and Hoboken Guilds I have owned and played, just feel more responsive/dynamic. All of the Guilds I have owned were well voiced and played great, the lighter vintage ones felt more alive in my hands - they are the ones that grab my attention when I'm looking for another.

 

[GGJaguar]

Well, I'm interested in all eras because I like history and like to see how the construction changed over the years. I think it comes down to each individual guitar regardless of era. I have to judge it on its own merits so either I like it or I don't.

 

[E-Type]

Well, I'm interested in all eras because I like history and like to see how the construction changed over the years. I think it comes down to each individual guitar regardless of era. I have to judge it on its own merits so either I like it or I don't.

Any noticeable changes between Tacoma to New Hartford or New Hartford to Oxnard? I do hope Guild got something out of bringing in Ren! Then again, Lenny of people (on the Internet) claim Tacoma, New Hartford, and Oxnard Guilds are all equally great. Were the tweaks just cosmetic?

 

[GGJaguar]

Were the tweaks just cosmetic?

In my experience, there is no difference between between NH and Oxnard builds in terms of construction and quality. Tacoma seems to be transitional between Corona and NH. The 12-strings still used the double truss rod (NH and Oxnard have single TR w/carbon fiber bars), but then you have new "reboot" models introduced in Tacoma like the F-40 and F-47 that were continued to be built at NH (because they are fabulous guitars). With that said, I sold a perfectly nice Corona-built F-412 to get one of the lighter, single TR builds from Oxnard and I have no regrets about that decision.

 

[HeyMikey]

I think the answer to your question may be closely linked to what models or specs someone wants. My preferences are very narrowly focused on small/medium sizes with wider necks.

I’m sure Hoboken made excellent instruments but the necks are generally too thin for me.

There are a few from Westerly and Tacoma I’ve tried and liked … a lot. Yeah, the Westerly’s can be heavy but some of those magnificent models just can not be found anywhere else.

I would have to say New Hartford is my favorite as they produced the most models that fit my specs. The lighter weight and great ergonomics also do make them a pleasure to play.

 

[plaidseason]

I'm an entirely Westerly biased. I love the sound and the mojo. Plus I've spent most of my life on coastal southern New England . . . and addition to the bumper boats, and the go-karts, I now dearly miss the Guild factory in Westerly.

 

[E-Type]

I think the answer to your question may be closely linked to what models or specs someone wants. My preferences are very narrowly focused on small/medium sizes with wider necks.

I’m sure Hoboken made excellent instruments but the necks are generally too thin for me.

There are a few from Westerly and Tacoma I’ve tried and liked … a lot. Yeah, the Westerly’s can be heavy but some of those magnificent models just can not be found anywhere else.

I would have to say New Hartford is my favorite as they produced the most models that fit my specs. The lighter weight and great ergonomics also do make them a pleasure to play.

To add to your point, I like a medium 1-11/16” neck and I’m looking for a JF30. Lots of those evidently measure 1-3/4” at the nut. They are also heavy. I’d love to find a New Hartford F-50 for that reason.

 

[E-Type]

I'm an entirely Westerly biased. I love the sound and the mojo. Plus I've spent most of my life on coastal southern New England . . . and addition to the bumper boats, and the go-karts, I now dearly miss the Guild factory in Westerly.

I’ve been like that since I discovered Guild awesomeness. But the thought of a 6+ lb jumbo has me reconsidering.

 

[plaidseason]

I’ve been like that since I discovered Guild awesomeness. But the thought of a 6+ lb jumbo has me reconsidering.

I'm done with jumbos forever. Mini-jumbos, 000s and LGs sure. I have an arch back dread because I love the sound of those, but even that is a bit much.

 

[E-Type]

One flaw in my question. Pre-‘73 Guilds (not needing major work) are almost always more than $2,000…and that’s the leading category!!!

 

[Br1ck]

You should be able to get a pre 73 D 35 for less than $2000. I value mine at around $1500 though I'm not paying much attention. Mine is post major work. I'd not be afraid of paying $1000 for one needing work, and spending $1000 on Mr. Fixit if that is what you want. D 55? Forget it. Depends entirely on what you want. As for age, the real dividends come with thirty years. I've played old Collings guitars that really were better than new at 30+ years of age. The highs just got pretty after all the years. I am biased toward old though my guitars are from 65, 70, 07, and 12. New Hartford would be on my radar. People seem to like the new D 40s if you spend a few more dollars.

 

[adorshki]

Assuming the same price (think $2,000), none need any significant work (refret or reset) but dings and cosmetics get you to the same market value. Which is your choice?

I know they can all be great, but they vary in construction and, obviously, age.

I love my lightweight ‘70 D-25 and heavy ‘74. However, just an 18oz weight difference means I can really focus on playing the ‘70, while the mass of the ‘74 makes playing it a little more challenging (and tiring after 2 hours of band practice).
I love Westerlies and how they all now have aged tops, but I find myself considering a later lightweight model.

Would the age of a 2005 or 2012 be a plus over the Oxnards? I hear so much about guitars opening up after 10-15 years, but is most of that psychosomatic? Do you value a bit of age?

I know they got lighter in Tacoma, but did meaningful structural changes occur in New Hartford or Oxnard?

I’m interested in how all of this factors into your final interest in each generation.

And yes, I know I’m mainly asking those members that have owned lots of Guilds.

Went to mediums as standard gauge in NH.

Top radius was revised in New Hartford, likely due to change of gauge spec. Neck attachment was changed enough that one member who had a Tacoma with a bad neck got a new NH version under warranty because they couldn't mount an NH neck on a Tacoma body and didn't have any other necks to use.

 

[adorshki]

In my experience, there is no difference between between NH and Oxnard builds in terms of construction and quality. Tacoma seems to be transitional between Corona and NH. The 12-strings still used the double truss rod (NH and Oxnard have single TR w/carbon fiber bars), but then you have new "reboot" models introduced in Tacoma like the F-40 and F-47 that were continued to be built at NH (because they are fabulous guitars). With that said, I sold a perfectly nice Corona-built F-412 to get one of the lighter, single TR builds from Oxnard and I have no regrets about that decision.

Single truss on 12's was introduced in Tacoma in '07, but never documented. Ask Chaz.

F47 was continuous from late Westerly through Corona, but was replaced by CV-1 and 2 in Tacoma, then revived in NH with the death of the Contemporarys.

F40 and F30 were revived in Tacoma, there were no Corona F30's or '40's but tAcoma saw 2 different takes on the body with the "Contemporary" series being based on F30 and F40 bodies.

 

[E-Type]

You should be able to get a pre 73 D 35 for less than $2000. I value mine at around $1500 though I'm not paying much attention. Mine is post major work. I'd not be afraid of paying $1000 for one needing work, and spending $1000 on Mr. Fixit if that is what you want. D 55? Forget it. Depends entirely on what you want. As for age, the real dividends come with thirty years. I've played old Collings guitars that really were better than new at 30+ years of age. The highs just got pretty after all the years. I am biased toward old though my guitars are from 65, 70, 07, and 12. New Hartford would be on my radar. People seem to like the new D 40s if you spend a few more dollars.

So that means going back to pre-1994! Yep, you can find D-25s and D-35s for under $2k, but D-40s from pre '73 are pretty much > $2k if they are "move-in" ready.

 

[Br1ck]

The post 73 Westerly built Guilds are quite different from pre 73. You might like them though. The problem is finding any Guild to play anywhere, much less a pre and a post 73 in one shop. I hate to even say it, but a used but recent D 18 can be had for $2000 these days. Those are desirable guitars and I would not hate anyone for buying one instead of an old Guild. My open mindedness led me to buying a Martin D 35 Custom and my SCGC, both while hunting for a D 18GE. I was just presented with guitars I could play during the process. Playing the guitar has saved me a lot of grief, and getting sidetracked by the right guitar is not a bad thing. My Guild D 35 serves my D 18 want well enough. It would have to be both, not either/or.

I'm trying to think if I've ever played a Hoboken Guild. Maybe not.

 

[General Dreedle]

The post 73 Westerly built Guilds are quite different from pre 73. You might like them though. The problem is finding any Guild to play anywhere, much less a pre and a post 73 in one shop. I hate to even say it, but a used but recent D 18 can be had for $2000 these days. Those are desirable guitars and I would not hate anyone for buying one instead of an old Guild. My open mindedness led me to buying a Martin D 35 Custom and my SCGC, both while hunting for a D 18GE. I was just presented with guitars I could play during the process. Playing the guitar has saved me a lot of grief, and getting sidetracked by the right guitar is not a bad thing. My Guild D 35 serves my D 18 want well enough. It would have to be both, not either/or.

I'm trying to think if I've ever played a Hoboken Guild. Maybe not.

There’s a store here in seattle selling a 79 D50 and 79 D55, going for 3k and 4k respectively, both in fantastic condition. The D50 is deeper sounding

 

[twocorgis]

My favorite Guild factories are Hoboken, New Hartford, and Oxnard, but I'm not sure of the order of the three. I've played great guitars from all the factories and eras, though.

 

[F30]

I've had Guilds from just about every era and I have been lucky to have had great luck.
So my answer is - where ever my next Guild purchase Guild was made.....

 

[Muckman]

The post 73 Westerly built Guilds are quite different from pre 73. You might like them though. The problem is finding any Guild to play anywhere, much less a pre and a post 73 in one shop. I hate to even say it, but a used but recent D 18 can be had for $2000 these days. Those are desirable guitars and I would not hate anyone for buying one instead of an old Guild. My open mindedness led me to buying a Martin D 35 Custom and my SCGC, both while hunting for a D 18GE. I was just presented with guitars I could play during the process. Playing the guitar has saved me a lot of grief, and getting sidetracked by the right guitar is not a bad thing. My Guild D 35 serves my D 18 want well enough. It would have to be both, not either/or.

I'm trying to think if I've ever played a Hoboken Guild. Maybe not.

My 2018' D18 is just as lively, light and resonant as my Hoboken D40. I rotate between the two - the Martin is louder and can get very boomy when you don't control your picking hand, but can be coaxed into all flavors of sweet and nasty - the D40 has a sweet midrange that the Martin does not and just has a voice unlike any other dread I've played. My preference between the two can change on the day or based on what I'm playing.

The D18s are definitely easier to find and play than D40s and they are great guitars. My old D40 is special, but my Martin is good enough to get the nod, almost as often.