What Guild is right for me ?

dpc915

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Hi all
I know most opinions are subjective but…
I’m a vintage acoustic guitar player, I own a few different models (58 Martin D-18, 53 J-45 etc). I’ve always wanted a guild. I’m thinking older D-40? Yes I’m a huge Richie Havens fan…I’m also a working/ recording musician. Are the older Guild necks slim like 60’s Gibson’s (too small IMO). Should I get D-40….D55? I love the fact that Guilds can really take the hard strumming and some seem to project loud. Help!
 

Stuball48

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Welcome and you cannot go wrong with either the D40 or D55.
Someone will answer your quild neck questions.
 

Westerly Wood

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Hi all
I know most opinions are subjective but…
I’m a vintage acoustic guitar player, I own a few different models (58 Martin D-18, 53 J-45 etc). I’ve always wanted a guild. I’m thinking older D-40? Yes I’m a huge Richie Havens fan…I’m also a working/ recording musician. Are the older Guild necks slim like 60’s Gibson’s (too small IMO). Should I get D-40….D55? I love the fact that Guilds can really take the hard strumming and some seem to project loud. Help!
wow a 1958 D-18 and a 1953 J-45.
Based on that alone, yes I suggest a made in Hoboken, NJ D40. so look for a 1968 and earlier D40, they are out there...Check back here before purchase so we can confirm it is a Hoboken and not a Westerly. Not that a Westerly RI D40 would be a crime...:)
 

jfilm

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I have two Hoboken Guild D-40s. The 1964 has 1 3/4 nut width, and the 1965 has 1 11/16 (or just under). I believe from 1965 - 1969 the nut width stayed at 1 11/16. The '65 is a really slim profile, which suits me. The '64 has a flat fingerboard with virtually no radius. All the necks were done by hand as far as I'm aware, so there will be variations depending on the individual guitar. However, from what I've read from others, I believe the necks are generally slim in this period. I seem to remember looking at an early 70s Westerly D-50 for sale, and the seller told me the nut width on that was 1 5/8" (could have been a 1970 or even 1969, not sure the exact date for the changeover from Hoboken to Westerly on the D-40). There's also the D-44, which has pear wood b&s.

Here are the specs on my two:

D-40 (1964)
First Fret: 21.4 mm (.84 inches)
10th fret: 23.1 mm (.91 inches)
Nut width: 45.2 mm (1.78")

D-40 (1965)
First Fret: 20.3 mm (.80 inches)
10th fret: 22.1 mm (.87 inches)
Nut width: 42.5 mm (1.67")
 

dpc915

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wow a 1958 D-18 and a 1953 J-45.
Based on that alone, yes I suggest a made in Hoboken, NJ D40. so look for a 1968 and earlier D40, they are out there...Check back here before purchase so we can confirm it is a Hoboken and not a Westerly. Not that a Westerly RI D40 would be a crime...:)
Trust me. Those guitars bankrupted me and i used credit and made payments. Lol. One life.
 

dpc915

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Now where do I find Hoboken guitars for sale besides reverb?
 

fronobulax

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Now where do I find Hoboken guitars for sale besides reverb?

Some show up on eBay. Sometimes CL. Basically the usual suspects. Get 10 posts and the you could try a WTB here. The enablers will widen your search and perhaps your interest will pry one loose.
 

Westerly Wood

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Now where do I find Hoboken guitars for sale besides reverb?
Ebay, craigslist national search, sometimes they are willing to ship, gearbase....and here on LTG in for sale, sometimes they come up
 
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Dunno--this is a bit like "which woman should I marry?" (I will refrain from carrying that comparison into the try-one-out-and-see stage.)

But seriously, the guitar will tell you by the way it interacts with your ears and hands. Guild dreads have a characteristic voice--even given the distinct differences between mahogany and rosewood models--and there was a time when I could tell there was a Guild in a jam circle even before seeing the headstocks.

As for necks: I've played a 1965 D-40 for more than 50 years now, with a 1-11/16" nut and a radius/profile that I still find comfortable even with some left-hand old-man issues. Other Guilds from various periods have also maintained the family feel, though I'm less fond of the voicing of examples from the late 1970s through the 1980s. But I've played many Corona and Tacoma D-40s that reminded me of my '65. (FWIW, I'm not fond of the rosewood-D voice, but that's just me.)
 

dpc915

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Anybody recommend the Richie Havens models or too new ?
 

Westerly Wood

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Anybody recommend the Richie Havens models or too new ?
Al has had one for 20 years or so, they are great Guild D40s. I prefer just the one pickguard however, having owned a D40 with a double pg in past. I dont know how many there are available...
 

dpc915

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Lame question but what’s the big difference between d-40 and D-50 (i know years matter etc) but generally speaking is it just the wood?
 

awagner

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Main difference is that the D40 is mahogany back and sides and D50 is rosewood.
 

dpc915

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Main difference is that the D40 is mahogany back and sides and D50 is rosewood.
Which is brighter or like louder the 50? I have a D-18 Martin so I want like a different sound to that Mahogany
 

donnylang

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Lame question but what’s the big difference between d-40 and D-50 (i know years matter etc) but generally speaking is it just the wood?

D50 has ebony fretboard instead of rosewood ... I think this is an under-observed difference. I personally don't like the sound & feel of ebony fretboards compared to rosewood. There is also the D44, which is like the D50 but with Pearwood back & sides.

Aside from the 1963-4 models as noted by jfilm above, the 1960s dreadnoughts will have slim/narrow necks. There will be variance from guitar to guitar of course.

Hoboken Guilds are harder to find, and command higher prices than Westerly. The earliest Westerly guitars (1968-72) tend to be the best value IMO ... they have characteristics of both Hoboken and Westerly IME.
 

donnylang

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... also worth noting that Hoboken D50s are very rare and will command high prices, as they're Brazilian Rosewood.
 
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