Westerly D-25, post 74 - is year important?

[Zelja]

Hello Guildologists. Just wondering in terms of the arched back hogs with spruce top, is their much difference in quality/mojo/sound/playability/neck shape betweem the early ones in the midy 70s & the the rest of them which came out of the Westerly plant?

May have an opportunity to get an early 90s D-25 NT, so very much interested in your thoughts.

 

[frettedstrings]

I'm no expert, but I understand that the 1973 - 1974 D25's were all Mahogany, instead of Mahogany back and sides with a spruce top.

 

[GardMan]

I'm no expert, but I understand that the 1973 - 1974 D25's were all Mahogany, instead of Mahogany back and sides with a spruce top.

It is true that mahogany-topped arched back D-25s were made in '73-74. But not all D-25s from that period are all-mahogany. My '74 D-25 (second half of year) has a spruce top.

Other than that... I can't really answer the original post. Guild necks were fashioned largely by hand, so there is substantial variability from piece to piece, regarding the shape/playability of the neck (the neck of my '74 is one of the chunkiest of my Guilds, but I have no problem going back and forth between it and any of my others... they all have a common feel to the neck profile). "Mojo" (whatever that is) is a matter of personal taste. If the guitar speaks to you, pay what you would consider a fair price (25s in good shape go anywhere from $400-800 or so). Just my $0.02.

 

[adorshki]

I'm no expert, but I understand that the 1973 - 1974 D25's were all Mahogany, instead of Mahogany back and sides with a spruce top.

The complete evolution of D25's starts in '68. They STARTED as all-hog flatbacks. Sometime around '74 they started being made with arched backs and spruce tops, HOWEVER, an unknown number of the arched back bodies received 'hog tops. Those appear to have all been shipped by the end of '76. I believe one of our members has what appears to be a '76 all-hog archback from the s/n.
Probably the single most common points of confusion in id'ing D25's from this period is to call a "D25M" a hog-top guitar. 99% of the time it will actually be a spruce top stained 'hog color. The model number is intended to convey that. In fairness there are some incorrectly labelled guitars known to be out there, labelled "D25M" but in fact having a true 'hog top.
Also, the arched backs are ALWAYS laminted, not solid or carved.
After the close of Westerly, 2001, Corona actually reintroduced the all-hog flatback formula for a couple of years.
There ARE discernible differrences in the sound of the various constructions. An early '90's Westerly might be considered as having small improvements introduced luthier Kim Walker during the late '80's. What sound you like best, Zelja, as always, will be up to you.
Former Westerly employees have said that the period from '95-2001, under Fender ownership, was Guild's high-water mark for quality control, contrary to what gets said in many eekBay listings.
GO forth and seek ye yer Guild!

 

[Zelja]

Thanks for the reply guys.

I'm in Australia so there aren't that many Guilds here to begin with such that I can pick & choose. If I buy a guitar it will more than likely be without having it in my hands, hence trying to get an idea of what eras to look for.

Also, I'm likely to buy from Ebay in the US & get the guitar shipped to my brothers place in New Jersey. I'll be going to visit him in Sep/Oct, or failing that he's coming here at Christmas. I'm looking to buy now as our dollar has been pretty good recently against the Greenback - at parity or worth a few cents more. It's actually dropped the last few days & who knows what it will be like at the end of the year. A few years back we only got 52 US cents for our dollar, which makes guitars expensive! The price of guitars sourced in Australia is generally a lot more than in the US.

So, I'm on the lookout for am F50R & D25! It'll be hell buying them & then having to wait so long to get them into my hands...

 

[spiderman]

Guilds during the Westerly years tended to be consistent in quality, especially in comparison to the other quality large American acoustic makers (Gibson, Martin) during the late 60s through the 70s. Naturally there will be variation from guitar to guitar, but the odds of getting a dud in comparison to the other manufacturers during that period are less with a Guild. This is a pretty broad statement, so take it with a grain of salt, for example 12 fret Martins did not have the mold problems that afflicted the 14 fret models, but as general rule.........

Harmony H-173 bought in 1960 (retired), Alvarez AC60S 2008, Eastman AC320ce 2008 "Hybrid", Guild GAD-JF30E(blonde) 2008,
Guild D25M 1974, Martin Grand J35E 2009, Martin D12-20 1970, Martin OM-21 2009, Voyage-air VAOM-06 2010
"I'm glad there are a lot of guitar players pursuing technique as diligently as they possibly can, because it leaves this whole other area open to people like me."
Richard Thompson

 

[-ike-]

zelja,

i just bought a used D25 made in 2000 as a used one for about 540 euro here in germany.
i picked it up, not able to play it first cause of "dead" strings, bad neck adjustment and one missing string pin.
i took it home, cleaned it, put new strings to it, also new string pins, adjusted the neck, waitetd 3 days till the wood could do its job by bending a bit forward.
then i tuned it and "WOW" - my D25 is a super good soundig guitar, very good playable and good for all styles of music!

you will not be disapointed assuming the D25 of your choise is factory original and no one has put some "cool" improvements to it.

good luck!!

 

[dapmdave]

I have an '87, and it's a great guitar. Much better than some guitars costing thousands.

But it wasn't always that way. When I got it, it was pretty ordinary. Once it had been through the hands of a good luthier, however, the guitar's potential was realized and now it's one of my favorites.

In my opinion, a lot of Guilds were probaby never set up properly, and as a result were played little. Show them a little love and you'll be rewarded. There is quality in there.

My advice: Rather than agonizing over a particular year, find a guitar that feels good to you and has "good bones". Then get it set up to your satisfaction by someone who knows what they are doing.

Dave

 

[Zelja]

Thanks Spidey, Ike & Dave. Looks like I just need to show & bit of patience & prudence & pick up any D25 that looks the goods.

I've seen a few cheap D35s recently, but the arch back D25s appear to be the guitars that have a certain something. Cheers!