T100D questions

[Bobo]

Hi, I'm new to this forum... I've lurked for awhile but never posted before. I am a big fan of Guild guitars, especially the archtop electrics.

A friend of mine is interested in this guitar:

http://www.gbase.com/gear/guild-usa-vin ... 1961-sunbu

I'd like some opinions. This model is the precursor to the Starfire and this example has the Franz pickups, right? I would guess this would be a good guitar for rockabilly/'50s R&B and blues. It looks like a decent player to me, and seems to be all original to my relatively uneducated eye.

Is feedback an issue with this model? I've heard that the Franz pickups are brighter and maybe more midrangey than Gibson P90s, is that true? Are these pickups weaker than P90s too?

What puzzles me a bit is that I've read that the T100 only had binding on the top of the body, and no neck binding. Well, this example has binding on the back of the body as well as on the top, and also on the neck. Is this a special order or something like that? The binding looks old so I'm guessing it's not owner modification...

One more question: what would be the proper Bigsby to mount on this without drilling any extra holes? Would that be a B6? And which Bigsby bridge should be used?

I appreciate any insights... thanks.

 

[Qvart]

A friend of mine is interested in this guitar:

http://www.gbase.com/gear/guild-usa-vin ... 1961-sunbu

Welcome aboard!

I can't give you any information, but Hans will be your best source (although other members will have some good info too). If you've been lurking you probably already know that.

BTW: the dealer selling that guitar on gbase is a forum member as well (gregsguitars).

Good luck!

 

[Qvart]

What puzzles me a bit is that I've read that the T100 only had binding on the top of the body, and no neck binding. Well, this example has binding on the back of the body as well as on the top, and also on the neck. Is this a special order or something like that? The binding looks old so I'm guessing it's not owner modification...

Okay, since I have a copy of Hans' book...

He says they had bound fingerboards, but unbound ones have been reported. Also says they only had binding on the top of the body, but some of the early '70's models had both top and bottom binding. Perhaps some of the earlier ones (like this one) had both as well. Except for that it looks pretty much like what's in the book (pgs. 60, 73).

Again it's time to wait for Hans. Maybe he has come across some more information on these since he published his book.

Here's another one on gbase.com without binding on the bottom.

 

[Walter Broes]

I would guess this would be a good guitar for rockabilly/'50s R&B and blues.

Yes

Is feedback an issue with this model?

Possibly - I have a '61 Starfire, and it has a véry thin top and is a very resonant little guitar, and for some strange reason it gives me a little more feedback trouble than my full-body, 17" Guilds. I can still use it onstage though.
All the Franz pickups I had needed to be potted (=wax saturated) before I could use them at realistic band volumes though, but that is an easy job to perform yourself, or a cheap one of the work scares you somehow.

I've heard that the Franz pickups are brighter and maybe more midrangey than Gibson P90s, is that true?

Brighter and treblier, absolutely

Are these pickups weaker than P90s too?

Maybe just a hair, but I definitely wouldn't describe Franz pickups as "weak".

One more question: what would be the proper Bigsby to mount on this without drilling any extra holes?

Pretty sure you can forget about not having to drill extra holes. Tailpiece and Bigsby holes are almost never a match.

Would that be a B6? And which Bigsby bridge should be used?

Theoretically, a B6 Bigsby should work. In practice, I've seen about two or three T-100's of this era, and a couple of later ones, and none of them had the kind of neck angle (= bridge height) that would really be good for a non-tension bar Bigsby like the B6 or B3 - the strings would probably pop out of the bridge if you strummed them, and the guitar wouldn't sound all that great without enough string angle at the bridge.
There IS the option of fitting a B7 Bigsby to these (extra roller), but I think that would be a bit of a shame, as you have to drill holes in the guitar's top for that.

Maybe this one has a better neck angle, but I'd be very suprised.

 

[Bobo]

Theoretically, a B6 Bigsby should work. In practice, I've seen about two or three T-100's of this era, and a couple of later ones, and none of them had the kind of neck angle (= bridge height) that would really be good for a non-tension bar Bigsby like the B6 or B3 - the strings would probably pop out of the bridge if you strummed them, and the guitar wouldn't sound all that great without enough string angle at the bridge.
There IS the option of fitting a B7 Bigsby to these (extra roller), but I think that would be a bit of a shame, as you have to drill holes in the guitar's top for that.

Maybe this one has a better neck angle, but I'd be very suprised.

Hmmm... from what you're saying , it sounds like a Bigsby (I can't see drilling holes in the top either to use a B7) wouldn't work very well for this one. But why are Bigsbys viable on Starfire III's then? Seems like this is a very similar guitar.

 

[Walter Broes]

It's a bit of a gamble, it just works on some, just doesn't on others. Same goes for Starfires, even ones that come with a Bigsby, doesn't always work thàt great.

 

[guildzilla]

I put a Guild Bigsby (similar style to B-6) on my T-100. Prior to that, I had a Bigsby B-3 on this same guitar. Paired with a modern Bigsby bridge, using either tailpiece, the break angle is just barely enough.

I believe Hans recently indicated that, in order to function properly, the height of the bridge (or saddles) above the guitar top should measure at least 13/16" when using a Bigsby on an archtop.

Here is a link to that thread:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16637

I had to raise my bridge wheels about 3/32" to dial in that distance. Belated thanks for the advice, Hans.

 

[in a little rowboat]

I cant add much more other than I have a '63 T-50 which is very similar...the franz pickup has less output on a gauge, but is better defined in MOST frequencies...often times output means muddy. i find i have crisper highs and high mids than in a standard p90, although I have not a/bed mine with a p90 of the same era.

Feedback is an issue with any hollowbody, but less an issue with this model, a thinline with laminated wood...

FWIW the guitar on Gbase looks to be a touch over priced to me, sorry...

 

[hansmoust]

What puzzles me a bit is that I've read that the T100 only had binding on the top of the body, and no neck binding. Well, this example has binding on the back of the body as well as on the top, and also on the neck. Is this a special order or something like that? The binding looks old so I'm guessing it's not owner modification...

Okay, since I have a copy of Hans' book...

He says they had bound fingerboards, but unbound ones have been reported. Also says they only had binding on the top of the body, but some of the early '70's models had both top and bottom binding. Perhaps some of the earlier ones (like this one) had both as well. Except for that it looks pretty much like what's in the book (pgs. 60, 73).

Again it's time to wait for Hans. Maybe he has come across some more information on these since he published his book.

Hello everybody,

During the early years the T-100 and the Starfire used pretty much the same superstructure, which means they both had an unbound back; the difference was in the pickups and the hardware. Around that time Guild was playing with the idea of producing an 'upgraded' T-100, which was going to be called the T-200. A few of these were made but the model turned out to be too close to the Starfire and it was decided that the Starfire would get the upgrades of the T-200 and the T-200 idea was 'scrapped'. From then on all the single cutaway Starfires did have a bound back. It is very well possible that the T-100 at Greg's guitars is one of the guitars that should have become a T-200 and ended up with the T-100 model designation on the label, but I need to have the serial number to verify that.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
http://www.guitarsgalore.nl

 

[Bobo]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I appreciate it.