StewMac Bridge pins advice needed

southernGuild

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Just a quick one. I'm looking to replace the factory pins on a few on my Guilds with some new slotted Bone ( with dot) ones. I'm thinking of the StewMac #4971.
I used these on my D25 and they were a perfect fit. I want to put them on The 212Xl , the DV52, F20, and JF65.
Are these pretty standard? Do you think they'll be a fit?
I'm going with dem-bone endpins also.
Any advice welcome. :wink:
 

AcornHouse

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If you're going to replace that many, I would recommend getting a tapered reamer, too. Then you can fine tune the fit and get them perfect. It's hard to get a perfect fit with every pin out of the box. It's s.o.p for luthiers to fine tune the fit during a set up. (And the readers aren't that expensive,) just use a light touch and take just a little at a time.
 

Christopher Cozad

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southernGuild

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:D Thanks guys, That's excellent advice, and points I had not considered. The D25 pins were ordered by myself, and put on by a USA luthier, so it is likely he had to use the reamer a bit. I just didn't know that.
With no luthier near me, I have to do as much as I can myself. This looks doable, so long as, like you say, take it slow and light touch.
Thanks Guys!
Thanks too for the Links Christopher. :wink:
I'm on my way!
 

tommieboy

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southernGuild said:
Just a quick one. I'm looking to replace the factory pins on a few on my Guilds with some new slotted Bone ( with dot) ones. I'm thinking of the StewMac #4971.
I used these on my D25 and they were a perfect fit. I want to put them on The 212Xl , the DV52, F20, and JF65.
Are these pretty standard? Do you think they'll be a fit?
I'm going with dem-bone endpins also.
Any advice welcome. :wink:

I found the slot on the "Ivoroid" ones that I bought from StewMac was too narrow for my E string (bass) and it would not seat properly, not even close, so I had to pull out the old Dremel tool and modify the pin slot on that one pin. I figured since I use light gauge strings (GHS Bright Bronze), the slot width would NOT be an issue......well it was. Also, my 72 F-30 needed the "oversize" pins, which then needed to be sanded down to fit each hole. That I didn't mind doing, as I was originally going to order ivory pins from another vendor, and would have sanded them down in any case.

The StewMac slot width of .070" was noticeably narrower than my existing bridge pins that I was changing out. I believe the StewMac "bone" pins have the same slot width.

Tommy
 

tommieboy

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southernGuild said:
Thanks Tommy.
Yea, When ordering from such a distance, It helps to get it as 'right' as possible.
I'm going with the Reamer, But Man They aren't cheap! :oops:

I just added some additional information in regards to the slot width to my post above.....

Tommy
 

tommieboy

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southernGuild said:
.....I'm going with the Reamer....

The reamer in itself will not address the issue of the bridge pin's slot width being too narrow if the strings you use just happen to have a thick end wrapping at the string's ball end. Usually, only the bass strings run into this issue. Hopefully you won't have that issue.

Tommy
 

AcornHouse

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tommieboy said:
southernGuild said:
.....I'm going with the Reamer....

The reamer in itself will not address the issue of the bridge pin's slot width being too narrow if the strings you use just happen to have a thick end wrapping at the string's ball end. Usually, only the bass strings run into this issue. Hopefully you won't have that issue.

Tommy
My luthier (and I'm coming round to this opinion in my own builds) prefers unslotted bridge pins, with slots for the strings in the bridge.
Here's a discussion from AGF.
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128062


(And hey, hey, that's the first 1000!)
 

southernGuild

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8) 'Club Kiloposter' status for Chris. :wink:
Thanks Tommy and Chris. Yes, More to consider. I'm tempted to leave well enough alone now. But I really want to upgrade the 212Xl too, So I might just take it slowly, and start with just that one. It's pins are slotted, so I'll keep it as such ( but have the Dremmil ready :oops: )
Great points to consider. Thanks. :D
Interesting link too Chris...Even Bob Colosi got involved.
 

Jeff

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southernGuild said:
Thanks Tommy.
Yea, When ordering from such a distance, It helps to get it as 'right' as possible.
I'm going with the Reamer, But Man They aren't cheap! :oops:

Yep, & unless you'd best be very careful to not over bore the holes.

I used the old pins & 320 grit sandpaper to ream the bridge pin holes in my GF60. Even the 320 grit enlarged the holes surprisingly fast, just a couple twists.

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SouthernSounds

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Awesome, Jeff: that's the way to go. Very smart, cost efficient and simple. Congrats! :D

Go ahead, John and be sure to take some pics, like Jeff, of the whole procedure. :wink:

A hug & All the best, gents.
B.
 

AcornHouse

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davismanLV said:
YIKES!! $46 to $126 for such a specific tool. That HURTS!! :shock: :shock: I hope a never need a reamer....
You can find cheaper ones on the bay and other places. Some antique ones are good, too.
 

AcornHouse

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davismanLV said:
Thanks, Chris. Oh and congrats on 1,000 posts!! It's good to have you here..... :D :D
Thanks Tom. Hopefully a few of them actually made sense. :lol:
 

davismanLV

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AcornHouse said:
davismanLV said:
Thanks, Chris. Oh and congrats on 1,000 posts!! It's good to have you here..... :D :D
Thanks Tom. Hopefully a few of them actually made sense. :lol:
Actually, I understood all of them.

Oh dear, what does that say about me??

:lol: :lol:

It's good to have you here, my friend. :D
 

adorshki

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southernGuild said:
:D :D :D Jeff! Wow! Thank you!
Great approach! I feel comfortable giving this a go. This I will try! :D :wink:
Sure glad I asked this question. I learned a lot.
Well then our work here is done.
REAM me up, Scottie.
 
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