Slotted Bridge

[F312]

I'm interested in a 2006 Martin SWDGT at a "very good price". The seller said the bridge has been slotted, then he gave me a link; https://www.bryankimsey.com/bridges/slotted.htm
We discussed the practice, and he said he slots most of his bridges. I've never had to do this, and I have had plenty of guitars. Now if I had a problem with no break angle I would go that route, but to do it just to do it I don't know. I was concerned about the break angle, because everyone of these models I have seen , do not have a very good break angle.
Any help would be appreciated.

Ralph

 

[adorshki]

I'm interested in a 2006 Martin SWDGT at a "very good price". The seller said the bridge has been slotted, then he gave me a link; https://www.bryankimsey.com/bridges/slotted.htm
We discussed the practice, and he said he slots most of his bridges. I've never had to do this, and I have had plenty of guitars. Now if I had a problem with no break angle I would go that route, but to do it just to do it I don't know. I was concerned about the break angle, because everyone of these models I have seen , do not have a very good break angle.
Any help would be appreciated.

Ralph

I don't recall ever hearing about a negative to ramped bridges but one would suspect there's gotta be some drawback.
Given that you've heard that this model in particular seems to consistently have low break angles, it probably wouldn't bother me too much, except for the "purist" in me that would place a higher value on an "unmodified" instrument.

 

[F312]

It's Al, it must be Friday. Yeah, the slotted bridge, for such a young guitar is hanging me up. I did a little research and it seems Martin is not making the pins even across the bridge as they once did leaving it up to a setup option.

Ralph

 

[Rayk]

Mostly it's done to prevent long term plate and pin damage . The plate being under the bridge and top to support both that and the ball of the strings . ( Which you/we already know ) Slotted bridge puts the ball evenly under the plate with tension being pulled straight up when using none slotted pins . None slotted bridges the ball ends up pinched against the slot in the pin and edge of bridge plate in which over time will wear away the wood of the plate and the pins as well .

It's really a "I prefer this to that kind of thing"
For those that do not take the time to properly seat the ball ends damage will be accelerated eventually eating through the top.

For most of use taking care non slotted bridges will last for a dang long time if not a life time .

I do like the string through the bridge method myself as it seems a no brainier ! Lol

 

[kostask]

This is really a preference thing. In general, slotting a bridge is done to either correct a string break angle issue, or when unslotted bridge pins are used. When using slotted bridge pins, it usually isn't necessary unless you are trying to correct a string break angle issue. It is usually a one or the other thing, slot either the bridge or the pins.

A properly made and properly selected bridge plate shouldn't wear much, regardless of whether the bridge is slotted or not. If the bridge plate is made of maple or rosewood, it will take longer than a lifetime to wear through the bridge plate. Bot woods are suitable, but not the absolute best for bridge plates (that would be persimmon, but is has its own issues).

 

[F312]

One thing I notice on this model, the pin holes to saddle space is farther away, which in turn makes the break angle not as I am use to. I wonder what the idea is behind this practice. I see it on no other Martin models.

Ralph

 

[cutrofiano]

Here come my personal 2 Cents:
The bridge will slot by the time as a sign of wear when using unslotted pins.
I don't like it.
Why would one change the guitar's specifications forever while you can slot your pins for no money?!?
Second reason: Break angle.
I say: Highly overestimated.
Unless the saddle is down to really nothing above the bridge I do not believe in the substantial benefits.
I would never do it and I would not want it either on a guitar I consider buying.
Disclaimer: Break angle is scientifically proven to be the ultimate hot shit.
I am only too stupid to understand and therefore have to warn everyone for also doubting on the basis of personal listening experience

 

[davismanLV]

When I clean/restring I always remove all the strings at once for better cleaning, and also insert and seat all the new strings before cutting and tightening so that I can get my big hand in the sound hole and make sure the ball ends are seated up nice against the bridge plate. Then proceed as normal. It's probably not necessary but I like knowing that the ball end is wedged between the pin and the plate before covering the sound hole with strings.

 

[5thumbs]

When I clean/restring I always remove all the strings at once for better cleaning, and also insert and seat all the new strings before cutting and tightening so that I can get my big hand in the sound hole and make sure the ball ends are seated up nice against the bridge plate. Then proceed as normal. It's probably not necessary but I like knowing that the ball end is wedged between the pin and the plate before covering the sound hole with strings.

I do exactly the same thing.

 

[F312]

When I clean/restring I always remove all the strings at once for better cleaning, and also insert and seat all the new strings before cutting and tightening so that I can get my big hand in the sound hole and make sure the ball ends are seated up nice against the bridge plate. Then proceed as normal. It's probably not necessary but I like knowing that the ball end is wedged between the pin and the plate before covering the sound hole with strings.

I do the same too, no guess work where the ball of the string is.

Ralph

 

[bobouz]

I do the same too, no guess work where the ball of the string is.

I accidentally hit the “Like” button above & want to clarify. Actually, I change one string at a time & use an inspection mirror to check the seating of each individual ball. A key is to put a sharp kink in the string at the end of the winding (near the ball end), which will typically guide the ball into the sweet spot.

Also, I too believe that achieving a generalized ideal break angle is overrated. I’ve seen a lot of variations that still manage to deliver great tone.

And lastly, Martin has been using a non-standard-series bridge for many years with wider spacing between the saddle & pins.

 

[AcornHouse]

This is my preference, in conjunction with non-slotted pins.

 

[F312]

I accidentally hit the “Like” button above & want to clarify. Actually, I change one string at a time & use an inspection mirror to check the seating of each individual ball. A key is to put a sharp kink in the string at the end of the winding (near the ball end), which will typically guide the ball into the sweet spot.

Also, I too believe that achieving a generalized ideal break angle is overrated. I’ve seen a lot of variations that still manage to deliver great tone.

And lastly, Martin has been using a non-standard-series bridge for many years with wider spacing between the saddle & pins.

I have only seen this on the sustainable series guitars like the SWDGTG and SWOMGT models, but wait, I've just seen it on a D16GT, (the spacing) so there are more.

Ralph

 

[Cougar]

...Second reason: Break angle.
I say: Highly overestimated.
Unless the saddle is down to really nothing above the bridge I do not believe in the substantial benefits.

I tend to agree. I jumped on an F412 with a price hard to resist. Turns out that was because the saddle was pretty low. I had the pin holes ramped. This helped somewhat but not a great deal. I ended up selling it.

 

[bobouz]

I have only seen this on the sustainable series guitars like the SWDGTG and SWOMGT models, but wait, I've just seen it on a D16GT, (the spacing) so there are more.

Oh yes, I can vouch for the use of this bridge going back to at least 2000, and most likely into the ‘90s. Martin used it on Road, 15, & 16 Series instruments (all USA-made at that time) & perhaps some other lines. Those are the ones I remember for sure.

 

[Rayk]

Mostly it's done to prevent long term plate and pin damage . The plate being under the bridge and top to support both that and the ball of the strings . ( Which you/we already know ) Slotted bridge puts the ball evenly under the plate with tension being pulled straight up when using none slotted pins . None slotted bridges the ball ends up pinched against the slot in the pin and edge of bridge plate in which over time will wear away the wood of the plate and the pins as well .

It's really a "I prefer this to that kind of thing"
For those that do not take the time to properly seat the ball ends damage will be accelerated eventually eating through the top.

For most of use taking care non slotted bridges will last for a dang long time if not a life time .

I do like the string through the bridge method myself as it seems a no brainier ! Lol

Kind reply

I'm interested in a 2006 Martin SWDGT at a "very good price". The seller said the bridge has been slotted, then he gave me a link; https://www.bryankimsey.com/bridges/slotted.htm
We discussed the practice, and he said he slots most of his bridges. I've never had to do this, and I have had plenty of guitars. Now if I had a problem with no break angle I would go that route, but to do it just to do it I don't know. I was concerned about the break angle, because everyone of these models I have seen , do not have a very good break angle.
Any help would be appreciated.

Ralph

Here a link to a post the jumbo J30/F50 by badger
That's show one aspect of slotted pins and the damage that can occur.

purchase of a 1974 F50 (but I already own a JF30 ...)

I ask for your opinion. I am looking at a 1974 F50 for sale. I'm afraid it's too similar to my 2000 JF30 Westerly (apart from the Blink). Do you have experience of the differences in quality and sound between the two instruments? Thanks to those who answer Franco

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