Setup Question

[jmascis]

Hey guys.
I purchased a new m-20 and had it shipped directly from Guild. The setup out of the box seems pretty good. I had to add a little relief to the neck (about 1 business card of relief). I just tested the nut by fretting at the 3rd fret and eying the space. There is just a little space. It seems appropriate. The action at the 12th fret, however, is a bit high (2.6mm). So is that high action simply a matter of the saddle since the relief and nut look good?

If so, can I take the saddle off and file it down with sandpaper?
I have never done this before and wondering how hard it is.

 

[AcornHouse]

I'll give you my process for nut and saddle setup.
The easiest way to check for the string height at the nut, is to fret each string at the 3rd fret, so that you're holding the string ON the second fret. Then there should be a small gap over the 1st fret. Test for it by pressing the string down over the 1st fret; there should be a slight "click" as it touches the 1st fret. If it doesn't move, there's no gap, and the nut slot is too low.

As for the saddle, lowering it is easy, but you don't really want to lower it, you want to RAISE it. By this I mean that you don't sand the top of the saddle, you sand the bottom. That way, you're just sanding on a flat surface, and you're not changing the arch on top. Easy peasey.

 

[jmascis]

As for the saddle, lowering it is easy, but you don't really want to lower it, you want to RAISE it. By this I mean that you don't sand the top of the saddle, you sand the bottom. That way, you're just sanding on a flat surface, and you're not changing the arch on top. Easy peasey.

Thanks. Yes, I wouldn't sand the top. But it's safe to sand the bottom at home (as someone who never did this) and lower it a bit?
Is it just even pressure across the sandpaper and check every few strokes? Do you recommend a certain grit sandpaper?

Maybe I will look on YouTube to see if there are instructions.

If the 12th fret is 2.6mm, and the nut and relief both seem correct, the only thing left is the saddle is too high, correct?

 

[AcornHouse]

I would use 120 or 180 grit sandpaper. Maybe as you ge close, switch to 220-240. Not a hard job. Just be careful and check that you keep a 90° angle to the sides so that it will lie perfectly flat.

 

[adorshki]

If the 12th fret is 2.6mm, and the nut and action both seem correct, the only thing left is the saddle is too high, correct?

I think you mean the nut and the relief, and that does leave the saddle.
And it's customary to ship 'em out at the top of the suggested range of action when new since it's a whole lot easier to lower the action to personal preference than raise it.
You need to remove twice as much saddle height as the amount you want to lower the action at the 12th fret:
If you want to lower the action by .2mm then you need to lower the saddle by .4mm.
It's a constant, it doesn't vary between guitars.

 

[GAD]

I would buy another nut and mess with it if this is your first time. Buy a nice bone nut that's the right size and experiment. That way if you go too far you can put the original one back in.

Also, you'll get to learn of the fine aroma that occurs when you sand bone.

 

[GardMan]

To sand the bottom of the saddle, tape a (half sheet) of sandpaper (I like 200 grit for the "final sanding") down to the flattest surface you have, then sand the bottom of the saddle by moving the saddle LENGTHWISE along the sandpaper, holding the saddle vertically.

As mentioned... if you want to lower the action by 0.2mm, you need to remove 0.4mm from the saddle... I usually draw a fine pencil line along the bottom of the saddle to show how much I plan to remove. Take your time... I often string it up 2-3 times along the way to see the actual progress on the guitar. I always plan to put on a new set of strings on AFTER the saddle is the proper height...

 

[Neal]

Also, be sure that you are sanding with the saddle in a vertical position, 90 degrees to the sandpaper. I use a small block of wood to place against the saddle to keep it vertical as I sand.

And if the saddle is bone, you could be at it a while, depending on the density of the bone.

 

[DThomasC]

When I read your question I thought of a few pieces of advice. Then as I read through the thread they all came up one at a time. I'll repeat them anyway:

1. Mark both sides of the saddle before you start. This will help you get to - and stop at - the right height. Marking both sides will help you keep the saddle vertical as you go (you'll tilt otherwise.)

2. Fasten the sand paper down to a flat surface.

3. Move the saddle lengthwise. Flip it around end-to-end to keep from sanding one end more than the other.

GAD's idea of starting with a new saddle is a good one, though I was going to say don't worry too much if you screw up the one you've got; new ones are cheap. You might be able to get them direct from Guild with the length and top radius already cut, which saves a lot of time.