score! --> Vintage Suprenant shielded audio wire 16 ga.

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capnjuan

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Hi Tomek; thank you, I'm interested. PM sent. John
 
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Hi John, PM sent..
Just gonna have to wait a few weeks for the stuff to get in my hands! :)

When you get it, let me know what you're using it for and how it worked out.

Cheers, Tomek
 
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capnjuan

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Hi T: thanks, looking forward to it. I'm going to use it to re-wire the inputs on one or maybe both of the GA20Ts linked in my siggie. Channel one in these amps has two input jacks that, oddly, each lead to one 1/2 of the first gain stage; the stages are not in series or daisy-chained; when plugged into one jack, the other 1/2 of the tube sits idle doing nothing.

At one point, I thought about bringing the input from one of the input jacks into a DPDT switch sitting in the other input jack's hole. With that switch, I could switch the input from one side of the tube to the other and switch cathode resistors and bypass caps with the other switch leg. I shared this with the Chairman of New Zealand's South Island LTG chapter and Class A certified electro-noodler. When he chooses, he can be a very polite guy and said; "Cheese Juan, are ya nuts or what? Why don't you just re-do the cathodes the way you want, leave them alone, and switch the input only between the two tube halves?"

Well, I says (to meself): "Thank God for kiwi fruit!"; he's right, I don't need to switch both inputs and cathodes, the inputs will do just fine ... so ... I need the shielded cable to jump from the remaining channel 1 input jack to the switch and then two shielded legs; one from each switch lug to each tube half input grid. At the end of my GA20T thread, there's a sketch showing the planned new cathode resistor and bypass cap values; what I want is two distinct amp voices from the same input jack available by a switch; lighter/brighter vaguely Marshall-esque in one switch position and meaty, chimey, smokey 'tweed' tone from the other.

If you didn't know, nearly every wire in an amp is susceptible to picking up electromotive force (EMF), stray eddy currents, radio frequencies, Swine Flu, and Sexually Transmitted Diseases. Shielding the input wiring keeps it from acting like an antennae; one end of the shield wire is grounded .. typically at the jack end to the chassis. The only issue that presents is that this shielded wire is #16; a size challenge to the grid pins that are small, punched tabs that usually host #18 and #20 wire. I don't think it will be a problem but, as a talented ampista on another BB says: "Plan on having something go wrong". Thanks again, John
 
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capnjuan said:
I shared this with the Chairman of New Zealand's South Island LTG chapter and Class A certified electro-noodler. When he chooses, he can be a very polite guy and said; "Cheese Juan, are ya nuts or what? Why don't you just re-do the cathodes the way you want, leave them alone, and switch the input only between the two tube halves?"
Click to expand...

Well, not quite so !

What he actually said is ...... " WTF is he on about ????? "
 
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capnjuan

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Ever the diplomat :wink: J
 
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Diplomatcopcar_02_resized.jpg



Whoops, wrong kind of Diplomat. :oops:
 
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capnjuan

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In the early/mid 80s, the stripped down versions were the taxicab/fleetcar of choice; indestructible slant-6 engine and ice-cold air. The compression head was so close to the inner shell of the wheelwell, 4 of the 6 plugs were knucklebusters to change ... I had one as a company car ... and still have the scars. Btw: local USPS mgmt is bitching out our Posties for taking too long to pick up donated canned food ... crabbing about down-stream OT to take up the slack ... What a bunch of armpits; being annoyed is one thing, blabbing to the press is another ... :evil:
 
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I participated in the food drive again this year. There's a feeling that management and the union is too busy swapping spit and posing for photo ops, but I picked up whatever was put out. The foodbanks are taking a beating. Last fall, the Boy Scouts' food drive was the only supply of food to some of these places.
I'm STILL stuck in the middle of getting the old house ready for market. Some forum goofing off for a few minutes and then down to the old house to do some ceiling painting.
 
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capnjuan said:
Hi T: thanks, looking forward to it. I'm going to use it to re-wire the inputs on one or maybe both of the GA20Ts linked in my siggie. Channel one in these amps has two input jacks that, oddly, each lead to one 1/2 of the first gain stage; the stages are not in series or daisy-chained; when plugged into one jack, the other 1/2 of the tube sits idle doing nothing.
Click to expand...
Hi John, long weekend here is over. Back to the front....hehe
That is an interesting layout.. I'm a total noob at amp circuits.
I wonder if that was their way to deal with the variable impedance between one and two guitars? Seems strange.
capnjuan said:
At one point, I thought about bringing the input from one of the input jacks into a DPDT switch sitting in the other input jack's hole. With that switch, I could switch the input from one side of the tube to the other and switch cathode resistors and bypass caps with the other switch leg. I shared this with the Chairman of New Zealand's South Island LTG chapter and Class A certified electro-noodler. When he chooses, he can be a very polite guy and said; "Cheese Juan, are ya nuts or what? Why don't you just re-do the cathodes the way you want, leave them alone, and switch the input only between the two tube halves?"

Well, I says (to meself): "Thank God for kiwi fruit!"; he's right, I don't need to switch both inputs and cathodes, the inputs will do just fine ... so ... I need the shielded cable to jump from the remaining channel 1 input jack to the switch and then two shielded legs; one from each switch lug to each tube half input grid. At the end of my GA20T thread, there's a sketch showing the planned new cathode resistor and bypass cap values; what I want is two distinct amp voices from the same input jack available by a switch; lighter/brighter vaguely Marshall-esque in one switch position and meaty, chimey, smokey 'tweed' tone from the other.
Click to expand...
The simplest solution of often the best ;) Sound similar to the way my Orange AD30HTC (twin channel) is setup.

capnjuan said:
If you didn't know, nearly every wire in an amp is susceptible to picking up electromotive force (EMF), stray eddy currents, radio frequencies, Swine Flu, and Sexually Transmitted Diseases. Shielding the input wiring keeps it from acting like an antennae; one end of the shield wire is grounded .. typically at the jack end to the chassis.
Click to expand...
Yes, this is why I'm excited about this cable. I plan on using it for everything possible when building my point to point wired tube amp. With all the shielding dumping the noise to ground (theoretically). hehe

capnjuan said:
The only issue that presents is that this shielded wire is #16; a size challenge to the grid pins that are small, punched tabs that usually host #18 and #20 wire. I don't think it will be a problem but, as a talented ampista on another BB says: "Plan on having something go wrong". Thanks again, John
Click to expand...
Ya, I was worried it's a little thik for some restoration projects.
Hopefully it will work out fine for building amps from scratch, or guitar wiring.

Cheers, Tomek
 
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capnjuan

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tomek said:
... I wonder if that was their way to deal with the variable impedance between one and two guitars?
Click to expand...
Hi T: well, I think you're giving Gibson much too much credit. For the money these old amps cost today, it's easy to forget that many were designed and sold as one cut above beginner's amps. According to the GA20T manual, the two jacks in Channel 1 were designed as mic jacks and Channel 2 was for instruments. By today's standards, it's almost comical to imagine two people belting it out while somebody else is hammering away through Channel 2.
tomek said:
The simplest solution of often the best Sound similar to the way my Orange AD30HTC (twin channel) is setup.
Click to expand...
The GA20T is already a two channel amp but you have the idea; sub-divide channel 1 accessible via a chassis switch instead of channel switching with a footswitch.
tomek said:
Ya, I was worried it's a little thik for some restoration projects. Hopefully it will work out fine for building amps from scratch, or guitar wiring.
Click to expand...
It will work fine; twirl the raw end into a tight point, trim if necessary. Shielded cable is especially useful for inputs, reverb supply/return, and, if jacketed, footswitch cable. J
 
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capnjuan

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Hi AechEf; no, not shotguns ... wire size ... AWG a/k/a American Wire Gauge ... a 16GA wire is .05" thick ... about the same as the nozzle orifice on a vintage Lugee...
 
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