Regluing binding

[Boomstick]

So the binding on my F-50 has started to come loose ever to slightly on the first couple of frets on the low E side.

Is this something I can easily fix myself by throwing a little glue in there? Or am I best off taking it to my luthier?

 

[RBSinTo]

Boomstick,
Of course you can glue it yourself, but why would you?
As someone who refers to "my luthier", you should use that person's services when your guitar requires maintenence.
RBSinTo

 

[bobouz]

A story from a few years ago: The binding on my ‘97 Starfire III was separating from the top edge of the fingerboard on both sides, along the full length of the neck. I used superglue gel, applied with a thin plastic tool (about the size of a flat toothpick from my Swiss Army knife), to work the glue in & then taped it down with electrical tape until set. It worked perfectly & is holding just fine after a number of years. Superglue gel takes a while to set, so there’s plenty of time to evenly work in a thin layer, and the gel is thick enough to adhere to the fingerboard‘s rather porous edge surface. Wipe away any excess, and use 800 grit to smooth things out if necessary. If you’re a careful sort of guy, the small area you’re dealing with should be a quick & easy fix. But if you’re more like a bull in a China shop, take it to your luthier!

 

[Stagefright]

I suffer from Luthiaphobia and will do everything I can at home. I’ve had success attaching neck binding with wood glue. I used toothpicks to apply the glue and blue painters tape to secure things while drying. The repair is 6 years old and holding strong.

 

[bobouz]

I suffer from Luthiaphobia and will do everything I can at home.

So apparently that’s what I have, too. Good to know!

 

[RBSinTo]

Unlike Stagefright and bobouz, I am a Luthiaphile.
And while I have done some guitar repairs on inexpensive, run-down student instruments, when it comes to expensive guitars, I always defer to those profesionals in the field.
Of course I could pop-rivet the loose binding back on that Martin D-28, but since I have no need to provide GGJaguar with another photo for his extensive collection of hot mess mods, I don't.
RBSinTo

 

[Boomstick]

Boomstick,
Of course you can glue it yourself, but why would you?
As someone who refers to "my luthier", you should use that person's services when your guitar requires maintenence.
RBSinTo

Well I'm not sure if this is as easy as sticking some glue in there and holding it down, or am I best removing it, scrape off dried glue and reglue.

If I take it in, I'm going to get a slightly higher bridge made. There is some 12-14th fret buzz in the winter, worst around March-April and currently as bad as it ever besides the 13th on the high E not fretting out completely (it did the first month or two I got it, then wasn't problematic again until this year) but the action is insanely low already and I play with a pick.

 

[Hobbesickles]

If you plan to own, collect, or borrow Guilds for the foreseeable future I would learn to do it yourself. It is pretty simple with some patience. I had the same issue as you on my '77 F50. I use this StewMac Glue Syringe with Fish Glue. It has a long working time, it's water soluble, and I have had zero issues with binding, headstock veneers, and inlays staying in place. It helps to clean up old glue but if that means breaking the binding then I would not do that personally.

 

[Christopher Cozad]

… I could pop-rivet the loose binding back on ...

That’s funny. You made me stop to think, “I’ll bet someone has actually tried pop rivets!”
It may be a bit of a “steampunk” aesthetic, but if you were careful to center those rivets at frets 3, 5, 7, 9, 12 15 and 17 as position markers (side dots), you may start a trend.

Boomstick,
There is a reason why your binding is coming loose. As the solvents flash ever-so-slowly out of the plastics, the binding shrinks and that is what breaks the glue bond. Most players grip the neck at frets 1 and 2 more than any other position and that is one of the most common locations for loose binding (a close second is the waist area). As others have mentioned, you can re-tack the shrunken/shrinking binding using a variety of glues (there are still a couple of dedicated adhesives available, but they are highly toxic, stinky stuff by today’s standards). Be aware that any solvent-based glue, while arguably more effective at the task, runs the risk of A.) melting the binding and B.) ruining the finish. Mitigate the risk by either using a water-clean-up alternative or be extra cautious and skillful with the solvent-based glues. You may want to bind (wrap, tape, etc) the binding as the adhesive dries or cures for long-term success.

 

[Boomstick]

If you plan to own, collect, or borrow Guilds for the foreseeable future I would learn to do it yourself. It is pretty simple with some patience. I had the same issue as you on my '77 F50. I use this StewMac Glue Syringe with Fish Glue. It has a long working time, it's water soluble, and I have had zero issues with binding, headstock veneers, and inlays staying in place. It helps to clean up old glue but if that means breaking the binding then I would not do that personally.

I'm not much of a collector as I don't have much space for more. I wouldn't mind a mahogany dreadnaught and a baritone at some point.

But my local luthier is winding down on work and looking to retire. He's not taking on new work himself, a couple of guys who work for him might. If they can't get to this, I need to find a new luthier, I've been recommended someone but that's a 2.5 hour drive.

Is the Fish Glue recommended over the StewMac bind all?

 

[bobouz]

Is the Fish Glue recommended over the StewMac bind all?

You might want to pose this question (or just research it) in the UMGF’s technical info section. They’ve been dealing with an epidemic of popped waist bindings on Martins since 2012, and of course this is significantly more challenging than neck binding because of the curved body. There are a number of respected luthiers on there who participate regularly, and I remember seeing recommendations for a slow setting & easy-clean form of superglue - but I don’t recall the details or where it can be purchased. If I’d known there was such a beast back when I did the binding on my Starfire, I’d have looked thoroughly into the details. Another question to ask there would be re luthier recommendations in your area - and specifically luthiers who have competently handled binding repairs for UMGF members.

 

[Boomstick]

You might want to pose this question (or just research it) in the UMGF’s technical info section. They’ve been dealing with an epidemic of popped waist bindings on Martins since 2012, and of course this is significantly more challenging than neck binding because of the curved body. There are a number of respected luthiers on there who participate regularly, and I remember seeing recommendations for a slow setting & easy-clean form of superglue - but I don’t recall the details or where it can be purchased. If I’d known there was such a beast back when I did the binding on my Starfire, I’d have looked thoroughly into the details. Another question to ask there would be re luthier recommendations in your area - and specifically luthiers who have competently handled binding repairs for UMGF members.

I just signed up, let's see how long it takes to approve me so I can post. I found a post about New England luthiers already, but most are a further drive from me although there is one guy from Northampton, MA which isn't too far. Maybe @chazmo has some from MA he's used?

That said the guy I've been recommended I guess is backed up with larger jobs, so should I need something major there may be a bit of a wait.

 

[RBSinTo]

That’s funny. You made me stop to think, “I’ll bet someone has actually tried pop rivets!”
It may be a bit of a “steampunk” aesthetic, but if you were careful to center those rivets at frets 3, 5, 7, 9, 12 15 and 17 as position markers (side dots), you may start a trend.

Boomstick,
There is a reason why your binding is coming loose. As the solvents flash ever-so-slowly out of the plastics, the binding shrinks and that is what breaks the glue bond. Most players grip the neck at frets 1 and 2 more than any other position and that is one of the most common locations for loose binding (a close second is the waist area). As others have mentioned, you can re-tack the shrunken/shrinking binding using a variety of glues (there are still a couple of dedicated adhesives available, but they are highly toxic, stinky stuff by today’s standards). Be aware that any solvent-based glue, while arguably more effective at the task, runs the risk of A.) melting the binding and B.) ruining the finish. Mitigate the risk by either using a water-clean-up alternative or be extra cautious and skillful with the solvent-based glues. You may want to bind (wrap, tape, etc) the binding as the adhesive dries or cures for long-term success.

Christopher,
I want to clarify one point I made in my post. When I referred to "that" D-28", I was not talking about an actual Martin guitar. I have a 1974 Martin Martin D-28, and the binding around the top and bottom edges of the soundbox have been intact since I acquired it in 1979.
I only mention this because I didn't wish to provide ammunition to those Martin-haters who delight in pushing the story about binding glue failures on Martin guitars.
RBSinTo

 

[Boomstick]

Christopher,
I want to clarify one point I made in my post. When I referred to "that" D-28", I was not talking about an actual Martin guitar. I have a 1974 Martin Martin D-28, and the binding around the top and bottom edges of the soundbox have been intact since I acquired it in 1979.
I only mention this because I didn't wish to provide ammunition to those Martin-haters who delight in pushing the story about binding glue failures on Martin guitars.
RBSinTo

No need to clarify, trolls are gonna troll. Apparently it is a fairly common issue with Martins, among other things. I'm still tempted to spend my savings account on the D-18 authentic at my local store every time I go in there (yes it does sound that much better than a regular D-18).