Re-finishing a natural mahogany guitar body.

coastie99

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Shortly, I hope to own a natural-finish deArmond S-73.

I plan on stripping the finish, applying a dark stain, and finishing in matte or satin.

I've been to ReRanch, and understand the following...............

I can strip the original finish using paint stripper.
I should apply a dark tinted oil-based grain filler.
I should use an alcohol-based dye........... I want to end up with a nice dark mahogany. I might even finish in transparent black.

I have a couple of questions for the knowledgeable here............

Is any sanding necessary after stripping ?
Since the guitar has already been "finished" before, is it really necessary to apply a grain filler ? I'd like to have really bold grain....... albeit Mahogany doesn't have much of a grain to show !
Do I have to apply a sealer before dyeing ?
What masking product will best resist the paint stripper ?

Haven't studied the final finishing routine yet............ any suggestions would be appreciated. Do I have to lacquer, or is some sort of rub on finish OK ?

Appreciate any help guys.
 

cjd-player

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Coastie,

I've never done a guitar, but I have done fine furniture (and used to be a woodworking magazine contributing editor many years ago). Here are some things to be cautious of:

1. Stripping may raise the grain. If so, then yes you will have to sand after stripping.

2. Stripping will probably remove some of the original grain filler, if any was used. So you will likely have to do some refilling.

3. Using a dark (black) grain filler in dark-stained mahogany is a classic furniture finish. If you really want to pop the grain figure in the wood, use a yellow grain filler. Bright red would be another option. That would be more subtle than the yellow, but not as subdued as black. See below about getting all of the stripper off first.

4. You have to make sure that you get absolutely all of the stripper off before any refininshing, or you could have serious fininshing problems. So you probably want to sand very thoroughly even if the grain is not raised.

5. I'm not familiar with that guitar, If it has edge purfling and/or binding, that will be the difficult part to protect. The stripper may not effect it, but sanding next to it could be a challenge.

6. Any dying should be done before filling the grain. Dying might raise the grain slightly, even alcohol based dye, so be prepared to sand lightly again.

7. If you do not have a professional-quality spray booth, I would avoid spraying lacquer. I've had great success with hand-rubbed polyurethane - thinned to rubbing consistency. Apply many thin coats, Sand after every three or four coats. It will take many to level the pores in the mahogany, even if they are filled.

8. To get a pro-looking finish, satin or gloss is the result of how you do the final buffing. You can buff to satin with 0000 steel wool. Gloss would bee 0000 steel wool followed by polishing compounds. Definitely need a powered buffer.

Good luck :D . I hope you are a patient person :mrgreen: .
 

coastie99

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Great advise mate; thank you very much.

Guitar is similar to an S-100 / Gibson SG, so no binding. I'm not going to touch the neck so need only to mask the heel area. Will of course cover the neck when re-spraying.

No, I'm not a patient person; anything but ! But I'm compulsively fastidious, and will get this right. I have to modify just about anything that I come in contact with !

I don't have spray equipment and will use one of those Preval thingies.

Of course, all this might prove to be totally rhetorical !

Assuming that I win the guitar, I may end up liking it just the way it is !
 

coastie99

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Bought the M-72;................. don't have to refinish it !

DEARMONDcFTM75_002.jpg


But, I do have to find pickups / tuners / pickguard / and knobs for it !

Oh, and I have to break the news to Mrs Coastie !!

Ya mightn't hear from me for a few days !!
 

danerectal

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coastie99 said:
cjd-player said:
Congrats, Coastie. :D

Any "before" pics, or is that the actual guitar?

That's the actual guitar C Jaded.

It'll get a set of Bare Knuckles HB-sized P-90's in it, Q knobs, Grovers and a pearly pickguard.

Prior to sliding the Knucks in, I would give those DeArmonds a shot. If they're anything like the Fender-made Guild humbuckers from that era, they'll sound pretty nice. The bonus is that you don't have to feel bad about tossing the Knucks in regardless. Either way, she looks like a sharp strument.
 

coastie99

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Darryl Hattenhauer said:
C,

You got one of the most beautiful axes out there. I wish Guild would make guitars in that color.

hf

I think they offered transparent black on the Bluesbird ?????????

Pretty sure that someone here has one.

Dane; I'll sure be doing that, but that there guitar is getting the Bare Knuckle treatment.... regardless !

Might buy another Dano U2 and slip the deArmonds into that if I like them, or, now that I've thought about it, I might slip them into "Betty Boop" who's already routed for HB's.

Note to all the comedians out there............ careful guys, this is a family show !
 

Darryl Hattenhauer

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Coastie,

PuLEEZ don't alter it in any permanent, irreversible way. I beg thee! I beseech thee! Pretty please! With sugar on top! Some of the Asian guitars are already collectors, and more will be. Someday your DeArmond might be too, especially with that color.

hf
 

coastie99

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Nothing irreversible Hatt-rick, I promise.

Only p/u's, pots (maybe), knobs, selector switch (replaced with rotary switch), pickguard and tuners.

"All in the best possible taste"............ Kenny Everett.
 

danerectal

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You should have the DeArmond logo screened in gold on the reverse of the original pickguard with a black background. I think I've seen a company do that before, and it looked pretty neat. :mrgreen:
 

coastie99

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coastie99

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danerectal said:
You should have the DeArmond logo screened in gold on the reverse of the original pickguard with a black background. I think I've seen a company do that before, and it looked pretty neat. :mrgreen:

Dane; I'm really starting to turn on to your idea............ all I'd have to do is get a sticky-thingie reverse printed, and that would cost pocket change. Big saving vs. getting a custom pickguard made, and then maybe not liking it anyway.

Thanks for the tip.
 

danerectal

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coastie99 said:
danerectal said:
You should have the DeArmond logo screened in gold on the reverse of the original pickguard with a black background. I think I've seen a company do that before, and it looked pretty neat. :mrgreen:

Dane; I'm really starting to turn on to your idea............ all I'd have to do is get a sticky-thingie reverse printed, and that would cost pocket change. Big saving vs. getting a custom pickguard made, and then maybe not liking it anyway.

Thanks for the tip.
Truth. I'm sure you've seen several examples of the painted underside. Maybe you could even get a "starburst" or "custom V" design to accompany the DeArmond. Whatever you do, she'll be one sweet hound-caller.
 
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