Questions from a new 1970 S100 Owner

Groundwire

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Dunno bout 50's wiring, but by 1972, a Phase Switch was standard on these, probably the one single biggest tone mod you can do, it puts the two humbuckers out of phase with each other in the middle position only, fantastic chewy tone with some variable twists via the volume knobs.

It was optional on S-100's before it became standard.

Don't bother with coil splitting, the sound of the full humbuckers has so much more power and resonance, coil splitting isn't really worth the trouble, besides possibly rendering a p'up inoperative in the process.

The middle position can be a bit boring, but the out of phase option will make it your favorite position on the guitar.

Schematics are available, not sure if there's a way to do it without installing a micro switch, but done right it would look like a factory installation.

Here's something I recorded on a Starfire 4 wired straight up out of phase only, and that could probably be done on yr axe simply by flipping a couple wires, like reversing the hot/cold leads on the neck p'up pot. It's actually very versatile in the out of phase position, not just a one trick pony, you can get a radically different tone just by rolling the neck p'up volume back from 10 to 8, it's like night and day, rolling it back sounds a lot less out of phase and HUGE!


Yes, I wish it had a phase switch. I’m considering wiring it to be out of phase all the time in the middle position. I love that sound, and I know what you mean about balancing the volume between pickups. That’s the Peter Green sound, and I love it. I may ask my tech to install the switch, I’m debating. Since it’s not a super expensive vintage instrument I’m more inclined to do some minor mods to make it even more useful. I really dig that out of phase sound.
 

mavuser

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Second question is about the bridge: Mine has the hagstrom bridge and vibrato. Is the vibrato arm supposed to be removable? I unscrewed the set screw that holds the arm in place, and it turns, but doesn’t come out of the collar. Also, the set screw seems to have bored a permanent divot into the arm and so it only stays put in one position, which is too low to the body to be useful. If I could remove the arm, I’d attempt to fill it with something and reset it for a different height. Is this possible?

congrats on the guitar! i just scored its right-handed twin!!

have owned/still own other Guilds w this trem- which, I am a huge fan of. I can help you with all of this a little later (well, on a lefty, i can try at least). for now dont force or modify anything! it should be good to go. will check back here soon.
 

cupric

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Couldn't you add a push-pull pot instead of a microswitch?
 

kakerlak

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Did the pre-phase switch era HB-1s still have the extra wire/lug to accommodate it?
 

Groundwire

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congrats on the guitar! i just scored its right-handed twin!!

have owned/still own other Guilds w this trem- which, I am a huge fan of. I can help you with all of this a little later (well, on a lefty, i can try at least). for now dont force or modify anything! it should be good to go. will check back here soon.
Thanks! Yeah I think the trem can be good, it seems to stay in tune well, it just needs a bit of work and may not have been adjusted in 50 years...
 

Groundwire

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Couldn't you add a push-pull pot instead of a microswitch?
Yes, this is another option. The switch is correct on a file though, just from a couple years later, so I’m debating which direction to go.
 

fronobulax

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I just realized that it the Lefty axe wielder is to the left of the drums, he's a lot less likely to hit the cymbals than a Righty guitar player, and this headstock doesn't look like it ever hit any cymbals ;]

I presume you mean Stage Right or Audience Left? Difference matters to the roadies and tech crew :)
 

Guildedagain

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You're right ;] Stage right, audience left, as important as knowing the driver's side of your car is the left side for ordering parts.
 

Groundwire

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It is more than slightly ironic how people raved about Green's LP, later Gary Moore's, and yet Gibson hardly offered the option, but Guild did, and then made it standard.
Yes and a lot of players made great use of out of phase sounds, so it’s odd it’s not incorporated more. I think phase is misunderstood. Many folks think out of phase is always bad. Phase is a sound shaping tool, like anything else. You can use two mics on an amp and adjust their phase to cut or enhance certain frequencies. There’s a lot that can be done with it.
 

jp

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Yes, this is another option. The switch is correct on a file though, just from a couple years later, so I’m debating which direction to go.
Hi Groundwire and fellow Orygunian!

That's a sweet S-100. Congrats and welcome to the forum. I think the phase switch definitely offers you access to different tones, including the Peter Green sound. I've got a '76 M-75 with HB-1s and a phase switch, and it sounds great.

If you're performing, I'd recommend considering a push-push pot instead of push-pull, if you don't want to drill a new whole for a freestanding switch. For years on my Strat, I used a push-pull pot to split stacked humbuckers. When under the gun on stage, it's infinitely easier to just tap on the pot to split the coils rather than fumbling with pulling it out. You also risk turning the pot when pulling it out, and in some cases, I pulled the knob off the actual pot shaft. Uggh!
 

Groundwire

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Hi Groundwire and fellow Orygunian!

That's a sweet S-100. Congrats and welcome to the forum. I think the phase switch definitely offers you access to different tones, including the Peter Green sound. I've got a '76 M-75 with HB-1s and a phase switch, and it sounds great.

If you're performing, I'd recommend considering a push-push pot instead of push-pull, if you don't want to drill a new whole for a freestanding switch. For years on my Strat, I used a push-pull pot to split stacked humbuckers. When under the gun on stage, it's infinitely easier to just tap on the pot to split the coils rather than fumbling with pulling it out. You also risk turning the pot when pulling it out, and in some cases, I pulled the knob off the actual pot shaft. Uggh!
Thanks! I’m glad to be here and everyone has been quite welcoming, helpful, and generally awesome.
Your point about push/pull pots is precisely why I haven’t used that type of thing on any of my guitars. I don’t even like to step on pedals during a song if I can avoid it. I just want onfocus on being in the groove. I generally ride the Gtr volume to clean up the sound and do as little switching as possible during the song. I want to spend some time playing the guitar before I start doing any mods. I had a Strat once that as soon as I got it I swapped to some boutique pickups. I ended up selling the guitar after a few years and out the old pickups back in to sell it and realized they sounded way better than what I had replaced them with... then I wished I hadn’t sold it...
 

SFIV1967

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A couple of LTG members had mentioned that early S-100 had very hot pickups. Quantum Strummer for instance wrote: "Years ago I played an early S-100 (don’t remember the year) with pretty hot pickups: well over 8KOhms."

I remember some discussion that those had red dots on them on the botton. Not sure if my recollection is correct.

Ralf
 

Groundwire

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A couple of LTG members had mentioned that early S-100 had very hot pickups. Quantum Strummer for instance wrote: "Years ago I played an early S-100 (don’t remember the year) with pretty hot pickups: well over 8KOhms."

I remember some discussion that those had red dots on them on the botton. Not sure if my recollection is correct.

Ralf
Thanks! That is really good info. Mine is a very early S100, so it would fall into that camp. Maybe this answers GAD’s question on his post about HB1 pickups, as to why some had red dots. Maybe these were the high output models. I don’t remember mine having dots, but I’ll check next time I change strings and have it apart.
 

mavuser

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Second question is about the bridge: Mine has the hagstrom bridge and vibrato. Is the vibrato arm supposed to be removable? I unscrewed the set screw that holds the arm in place, and it turns, but doesn’t come out of the collar. Also, the set screw seems to have bored a permanent divot into the arm and so it only stays put in one position, which is too low to the body to be useful. If I could remove the arm, I’d attempt to fill it with something and reset it for a different height. Is this possible?

OK, you have touched on a number of different aspects regarding the Hagstrom. Some things you wrote don't add up or make sense. And some of what you wrote is not entirely clear. this one is also a lefty, so ill try to stay on track with it myself

first, there are 2 main screws on that unit. the one large thumbwheel/set screw that holds the arm in place, and the smaller screw that controls the spring rate(or whatever) of the tremolo tailpiece. It sounds like you have removed the large thumb wheel set screw successfully. or maybe not?

"it turns, but doesn’t come out of the collar" a lot of things turn on that tailpiece. are u talking about the tremolo arm? or the large thumbwheel set screw??

presuming you are talking about the arm, and the large set screw has been removed and is not stuck in anything, just set that set crew off to the side. Is the point of the screw in decent shape? any major wear or signs of incorrect installation/use?

the "permanent divot in the arm" is there by design. there is only one way it is to be positioned. if it is "too low to be useful" than it is either: in there wrong/upside donw, is the incorrect arm, or a second divot has been made in the arm post-factory, in the wrong spot. something there is not right. one of my questions is that if you can't get the arm out of the collar, how can you see the divot(s) in the arm?

unless u mean the trem tailpiece itself is too low, which is controlled by that smaller screw. but lets pause there for a minute.

I want to make sure I am not misunderstanding what is stuck. in looking at your photo, the arm is way down by the knobs. that is not stuck, is it? the arm should be moveable, and if it is, move it up just under the high E string/in the pick guard area. The Hagstrom tremar is not like a Fender or Bigsby. it is very suddle, and just takes a touch to use the effect. It is not sticking way out like a Fender Strat. and the way that Hagstrom unit is designed (just look at it!) the trem will not work right (or at all) down where u have it in the photos. look at where a Bigsby arm is, the Hagstrom should look like that.

here is a lefty Hagstrom, see what I mean?

94D07DFE-F7F8-4012-A90D-E76E47D85718.png

Once you move the arm out of the way, next step is see if the trem is locked with that smaller screw. play a chord and pull on the back of the tailpiece slightly. does the pitch change? or is it locked? Ultimately that smaller screw will need to be adjusted, while you are tuning, to set the tremolo "spring rate" to how you want it/how the guitar wants its.

but before you do that, if the the trem arm is stuck in its cylinder, I would heat that up with a hair dryer and get that arm out. just set it aside with the set screw. and show us some photos.

Also on mine the values of the pickups have not been measured, but they do seem quite hot. the neck pickup for sure, is a sea of heavy cream fattness. both pickups are full spectrum, wide open like the sky.
 
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Yes, my 1971 M-75 has very hot pickups compared to my 73 S100SC, 73 SF IV and my 91 X-170. The 71 has the red dots on the back of the pickups. Possibly the earlier pickups more windings or stronger magnets.
Thanks John
 

Groundwire

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Yes, my 1971 M-75 has very hot pickups compared to my 73 S100SC, 73 SF IV and my 91 X-170. The 71 has the red dots on the back of the pickups. Possibly the earlier pickups more windings or stronger magnets.
Thanks John
Very helpful. Thanks! Usually I don’t care for hot pickups, but these still have bite and pinch and are not the least bit nasally or compressed.
 

mavuser

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Here is a photo of how close the arm is to the body on my Jetstar, which is set up perfectly. sorry my S-100 is not all together for photos atm, but it's the same exact thing. about 1.5 inches of distance, but again, the arm lives up by the stings (it wouldn't work correctly, or at all, down by the knobs...due to the geometry of the tailpiece).

32E5794A-F4AA-4EFA-994C-9AE554A5A695.jpeg


I also should have mentioned it makes a big difference which strings you use. try D'addario 10's, definitely!
 
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