Please educate me about the Guild D50

[Groundwire]

Hello LTGers,

I don’t often lurk on the Acoustic forum. I am primarily an electric player, but I don’t currently own an acoustic guitar and am interested in a 1979 Guild D50 that is for sale locally.

I’m quite knowledgeable about electrics and construction types, pickups etc, but not so with acoustic guitars.

I’d appreciate any direction or feedback anyone can provide on this model, or a link to a post that describes the details of this model. Consider I know nothing other than that this is a dreadnought style guitar with a spruce top and rosewood back/sides (I assume Indian rosewood given the year?).

Acoustic guitars I am familiar with are standards like a Gibson J45 or Martin D18.

I am looking for a nicely balanced acoustic for general playing. I am primarily an electric player, but would like a good acoustic for home play and recording work. Something not too big and boomy, with an even tone.

I previously owned a Martin OM16, and found it a bit thin and nasal sounding.

Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions. I plan to go try the guitar on Saturday, but would love to know more about it before I do so I can make an informed decision.

 

[Stagefright]

It's hard to guess what balanced means to you. I have a Guild rosewood D60 and it is a flat pick cannon. That said, I would give the balance nod to my GF-60 or JF55(both RW). Not by much, but there is a difference to my ear between the dread and jumbo configuration with the JF-55 being my pick as the best recording option.

If you like the D18, you should love the D50. If it were local to me, I would be on the way over to have a look.

PS- I pulled a Martin 000-28 off the wall at Sam Ash this week and the sound was thin and disappointing. I didn't have time to talk to a salesperson and hope it was a cheaper import Martin.

 

[Neal]

A 1979 D-50 will be a pretty heavy guitar, but do not let that fool you. During a time when both Martin and Gibson were struggling to make good guitars, Guild was making great ones. A D-50 will be loud, balanced, with a shimmer and sparkle to the tone from all that rosewood. Definitely not thin or nasal.

The big thing to watch for with a '70's Guild is the neck angle. Most, but not all, Guilds that old are either in need of a neck reset, or are close to it. A short saddle or a bridge that looks thinner than it should are dead give-aways. Take a 2' straight edge with you and check the neck angle by placing the straight edge on the fretboard and sliding it down until it hits the bridge. A guitar with a proper neck angle should have the front bottom edge of the straight edge just touch the top of a full sized bridge. If it hits the front of the bridge, the neck angle is shallow.

Also measure the distance between the bottom of the strings and the soundboard. 1/2" is ideal. 3/8" is marginal. Anything less suggests a neck reset is in order.

 

[Groundwire]

It's hard to guess what balanced means to you. I have a Guild rosewood D60 and it is a flat pick cannon. That said, I would give the balance nod to my GF-60 or JF55(both RW). Not by much, but there is a difference to my ear between the dread and jumbo configuration with the JF-55 being my pick as the best recording option.

If you like the D18, you should love the D50. If it were local to me, I would be on the way over to have a look.

PS- I pulled a Martin 000-28 off the wall at Sam Ash this week and the sound was thin and disappointing. I didn't have time to talk to a salesperson and hope it was a cheaper import Martin.

Yes, it’s quite tough to describe the sound in your head to others in a way that translates clearly. Thanks for the feedback.
Agreed about the newer Martins lacking in body and tone.

 

[Groundwire]

A 1979 D-50 will be a pretty heavy guitar, but do not let that fool you. During a time when both Martin and Gibson were struggling to make good guitars, Guild was making great ones. A D-50 will be loud, balanced, with a shimmer and sparkle to the tone from all that rosewood. Definitely not thin or nasal.

The big thing to watch for with a '70's Guild is the neck angle. Most, but not all, Guilds that old are either in need of a neck reset, or are close to it. A short saddle or a bridge that looks thinner than it should are dead give-aways. Take a 2' straight edge with you and check the neck angle by placing the straight edge on the fretboard and sliding it down until it hits the bridge. A guitar with a proper neck angle should have the front bottom edge of the straight edge just touch the top of a full sized bridge. If it hits the front of the bridge, the neck angle is shallow.

Also measure the distance between the bottom of the strings and the soundboard. 1/2" is ideal. 3/8" is marginal. Anything less suggests a neck reset is in order.

Thanks Neal,

This is extremely helpful. These types of specific info about neck angle etc are the kind that I can sight quickly on an electric guitar, but not so on an acoustic.

I’ll bring a straight edge and my fret gauge with me to check the neck angle etc. Thanks!

 

[Westerly Wood]

I sure wish often I had never sold mine. It was a 1986 D50 and really really growled. Far more powerful than my Martin D-18, HD-28, and really closer in power and impact to the Martin D-35 I had...sonic example.

It was a surprising good finger picking dread too, not just a flat out strummer. Probably a perfect acoustic guitar solo performer dread, singer/songwriter/performer versatile tool.

 

[Groundwire]

I sure wish often I had never sold mine. It was a 1986 D50 and really really growled. Far more powerful than my Martin D-18, HD-28, and really closer in power and impact to the Martin D-35 I had...sonic example.

It was a surprising good finger picking dread too, not just a flat out strummer. Probably a perfect acoustic guitar solo performer dread, singer/songwriter/performer versatile tool.

That’s a great sound right there. Thanks for the clip.
Please excuse the novice question, but what makes an acoustic good for fingerpicking vs being a strummer?

 

[Westerly Wood]

That’s a great sound right there. Thanks for the clip.
Please excuse the novice question, but what makes an acoustic good for fingerpicking vs being a strummer?

sometimes, a particular tonewood of a dreadnaught guitar, say rosewood, does not provide enough clarity of string, like mahogany does or maple, and when fingerpicking, the definition of the notes is lost in all the rosewood goodness. Also rosewood often just rings out more and sustains way longer, which can also be a detriment to fingerpicking.

just my humble opinion of course, but the older I get, my ears seem to prefer hog over rosewood. That being said, when leading a song solo and singing over the top, rosewood back and sides can really provide a nice bottom to the song. a fuller sound maybe.

But the Guild D50 is rather versatile vs say Martin rosewood dread that often are rather muddy. I often hear on the LTG that the D55 is a great versatile dread, does well for strumming as well as fingerstyle.

I also know that the Guild D50 gets high marks on LTG as an overall awesome Guild dread acoustic. Hard to go wrong with one. But if I was in the market for a great Guild classic dread guitar, and let's put up the D40 vs the D50 Guilds, which really are their of lore two classic dreadnought acoustic examples, and Guild has been making them since the early 60s...I would choose the D40 as it is hog b/s vs the D50. But to have both, well, then you would win.

 

[Norrissey]

I have two D50s - love them both. One is a '76 D50 NT that has been played and played, probably professionally, and is a little beat up and has some stories to tell. The other is a 1980 Burst that is very lightly played. As has been mentioned above, they are both pretty large dreadnoughts, very well built and a little on the heavy side. I'm not sure if objectively I would call them "balanced". The '76 has a deep low end, almost like a jumbo and it's bright on the high end. The '80 is mellower, not as deep on the low end and not as bright on the high end - I string it with phosphor bronze 11s for a bit more brightness. Both guitars are responsive and project plenty of sound when you lean into them. For some reason the '80 has lower string tension and is great for finger style playing, the '76 not so much.

Again, as mentioned above, be sure to check the neck angle and action. My guitars are fine, the heavily played one has a slight belly but nothing serious. Pics below. Good luck!

 

[Groundwire]

sometimes, a particular tonewood of a dreadnaught guitar, say rosewood, does not provide enough clarity of string, like mahogany does or maple, and when fingerpicking, the definition of the notes is lost in all the rosewood goodness. Also rosewood often just rings out more and sustains way longer, which can also be a detriment to fingerpicking.

just my humble opinion of course, but the older I get, my ears seem to prefer hog over rosewood. That being said, when leading a song solo and singing over the top, rosewood back and sides can really provide a nice bottom to the song. a fuller sound maybe.

But the Guild D50 is rather versatile vs say Martin rosewood dread that often are rather muddy. I often hear on the LTG that the D55 is a great versatile dread, does well for strumming as well as fingerstyle.

I also know that the Guild D50 gets high marks on LTG as an overall awesome Guild dread acoustic. Hard to go wrong with one. But if I was in the market for a great Guild classic dread guitar, and let's put up the D40 vs the D50 Guilds, which really are their of lore two classic dreadnought acoustic examples, and Guild has been making them since the early 60s...I would choose the D40 as it is hog b/s vs the D50. But to have both, well, then you would win.

This is really helpful. Thank you! I play with both fingers and a pick often, so these descriptions totally resonate with me, no pun intended.

 

[Norrissey]

I play with both fingers and a lick often

It's possible a better option for you might be a D40 or a D35. Those are both arguably more balanced and have lower string tension for finger style and playing with a pick although my '80 D50 is great for both. Definitely something to keep in mind if/when you try out the D50.

 

[Groundwire]

I have two D50s - love them both. One is a '76 D50 NT that has been played and played, probably professionally, and is a little beat up and has some stories to tell. The other is a 1980 Burst that is very lightly played. As has been mentioned above, they are both pretty large dreadnoughts, very well built and a little on the heavy side. I'm not sure if objectively I would call them "balanced". The '76 has a deep low end, almost like a jumbo and it's bright on the high end. The '80 is mellower, not as deep on the low end and not as bright on the high end - I string it with phosphor bronze 11s for a bit more brightness. Both guitars are responsive and project plenty of sound when you lean into them. For some reason the '80 has lower string tension and is great for finger style playing, the '76 not so much.

Again, as mentioned above, be sure to check the neck angle and action. My guitars are fine, the heavily played one has a slight belly but nothing serious. Pics below. Good luck!

Thanks! The D50 I am looking at looks just like that ‘76 NT, only it’s a lefty.
I am a bit CJ cerned about the weight. I usually can’t get down with heavy guitars. Also, after having worked in recording studios, I am super wary of boomy low end, because I’ve spent many a mix pulling out my hair trying to combat it. I tend to like lighter strings on acoustic as well. Maybe because I’m just a whimp from playing mostly electric.

I’ll be sure to check the neck angle, and also pay attention to the string tension. Thanks.

 

[Groundwire]

It's possible a better option for you might be a D40 or a D35. Those are both arguably more balanced and have lower string tension for finger style and playing with a pick although my '80 D50 is great for both. Definitely something to keep in mind if/when you try out the D50.

Thanks for helping me notice my typo! I fixed that.
See, being left handed, my options are quite limited. So, when something cool comes up, it’s kind of a “one shot deal”. I’ve only seen one or two other vintage Guild acoustics come up for sale in the last couple years, and one was beat to heck.
That said, I’m not desperate to buy this one, and so if there’s better options out there, I can wait. I just know, having missed out on some really cool guitars because I wanted to get my “ideal” specs, that when a great guitar is available, lefties don’t get the luxury of hemming and hawing….

 

[Norrissey]

I am super wary of boomy low end, because I’ve spent many a mix pulling out my hair trying to combat it

My '76 has a lot of low end but it's clear, not muddy. My '80 a little less but still more than a hog. Still, no harm in trying out a guitar. Keep in mind that using 11s on my '80 really helped brighten and even out the sound. A lot of recording people I've spoken to say that smaller body acoustics, like orchestra style and parlor guitars record better than dreads.

 

[Norrissey]

If recording is your priority Caveman Music in LA has a nice lefty 1970 Guild F20 for sale. These are small guitars but are supposed to record very well. No affiliation.

https://cavemanvintage.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/273660984_5158773594144657_7117085914964827067_n-e1644361767659.jpg

 

[GardMan]

At the risk of muddying up the mix a bit more...

If you are concerned about boomy bass (my '76 D-50 had a prominent low end, but I wouldn't call it boomy), but don't want to go the the extreme of the brightness of maple or mahogany... I would suggest you look for an ash-bodied D-46. One of the most common descriptions of their tone is "balanced"... in a sonic zone between rosewood and maple/mahogany. They were only made from about 1980 to 1985, and so are a bit more rare than the more common D-35/40/50. But a couple come up on eBay or Reverb every year. Many of the early examples (1980-81) have a rosewood centerpiece down the back (mine does), allowing use of smaller pieces of ash (which tend to be more quarter sawn than later examples). I don't know that it has much effect on the tone. Some don't care for the ash/rosewood examples... I sort of like it. Here's my '81:

I found my D-46 easier to balance in recording than either my D-55 or D-50, or even my arched back D-25. It is a great strummer and fingerpicker. These days, mine is tuned to DADGAD, and it sounds great in that tuning.

(price wise... they SHOULD be priced similar to a comparable D-40 or D-50. But I have seen some crazy high prices on a few on Reverb lately)

 

[Groundwire]

My '76 has a lot of low end but it's clear, not muddy. My '80 a little less but still more than a hog. Still, no harm in trying out a guitar. Keep in mind that using 11s on my '80 really helped brighten and even out the sound. A lot of recording people I've spoken to say that smaller body acoustics, like orchestra style and parlor guitars record better than dreads.

Thanks!
Yes, that is why I bought a Martin OM-16. Unfortunately it was just not a great guitar. Not much in the way of overtones and generally bland sounding. It also had no authority to the sound.
I remember jamming one day with a friend that was play an old J45, and my guitar was so much quieter I was playing so hard just to be heard, and he’s not a loud player at all. My Martin just sounded like a plastic toy compared to that J45. I didn’t play it for about a year after that and then sold it last year when I bought my Strat and needed to trade a few guitars towards it. I’ve been without an acoustic for over a year now.

 

[Groundwire]

If recording is your priority Caveman Music in LA has a nice lefty 1970 Guild F20 for sale. These are small guitars but are supposed to record very well. No affiliation.

https://cavemanvintage.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/273660984_5158773594144657_7117085914964827067_n-e1644361767659.jpg

That’s for sharing this link. That is a really good deal too, although I’ve never heard or played this model. It’s less than half the price of the D50 I’m looking at.

 

[Groundwire]

At the risk of muddying up the mix a bit more...

If you are concerned about boomy bass (my '76 D-50 had a prominent low end, but I wouldn't call it boomy), but don't want to go the the extreme of the brightness of maple or mahogany... I would suggest you look for an ash-bodied D-46. One of the most common descriptions of their tone is "balanced"... in a sonic zone between rosewood and maple/mahogany. They were only made from about 1980 to 1985, and so are a bit more rare than the more common D-35/40/50. But a couple come up on eBay or Reverb every year. Many of the early examples (1980-81) have a rosewood centerpiece down the back (mine does), allowing use of smaller pieces of ash (which tend to be more quarter sawn than later examples). I don't know that it has much effect on the tone. Some don't care for the ash/rosewood examples... I sort of like it. Here's my '81:

I found my D-46 easier to balance in recording than either my D-55 or D-50, or even my arched back D-25. It is a great strummer and fingerpicker. These days, mine is tuned to DADGAD, and it sounds great in that tuning.

(price wise... they SHOULD be priced similar to a comparable D-40 or D-50. But I have seen some crazy high prices on a few on Reverb lately)

Wow. That is beautiful. I like ash for Teles, but never heard it on Acoustic guitars. Real pretty though. Imagine it’d be hard to find in lefty.

 

[Norrissey]

That’s for sharing this link. That is a really good deal too, although I’ve never heard or played this model. It’s less than half the price of the D50 I’m looking at.

Yeah. It looks like a nice one but I have no experience with this model. You could perhaps ask the LTGers who own them for their feedback.