I think the first course of action will be to replace the cap can for the reverb amp - the sound from the speaker sounds like a 60 cycle mess so something foreign is getting by. After that, I'll start to dissect the rest. Stay tuned . . .
Explaining godawful: Coastie's T1 struck on its right side (when facing) by - probably - one of the forks on a forklift. Because the particleboad doesn't have any grain, it just shattered but not before transmitting the energy all over the place. The right side panel disconnected itself from the top because particleboard cabinets don't have finger-joints .. they have staples and Elmers glue holding them together.capnjuan said:... you have a plywood cab ... the earlier version had particleboard ... make that godawful particleboard; absorbs moisture, slowly disintegrates, and doesn't withstand point loads ...
Archer993 said:... (1) I'm totally confused by the whole reverb circuit.... (2) The green wire is coming off of the regular speaker terminal, not the reverb speaker. (3) Did someone reverse the black and white wires on the regular speaker. (4) Could the filter caps, having malfunctioned, fried other components down stream.
Very well could be. Another T1 RVT just showed up on eBay. The auction amp speaker on the left below with the white wire terminated on the green-dot speaker lug. Your speaker on the right w/ pic rotated 180 degs showing black wire terminated on the green-dot lug. Also, auction speaker is an Oxford like yours ... v1 T1s sold with 12" CTS although they stuck with CTS for the 8".Archer993 said:... Did someone reverse the black and white wires on the regular speaker.
It's not so much about capacitance but whether it leaks; if it doesn't leak then I don't think the filter caps are the source of the problem.Archer993 said:... I pulled the reverb can cap last night in anticipation of a parts arrival tomorrow. The 60/40/40 measures 46/27/33 so it's a bit weak BUT is it too weak to mess op the reverb?
It's not so much about capacitance but whether it leaks; if it doesn't leak then I don't think the filter caps are the source of the problem.capnjuan said:Archer993 said:... I pulled the reverb can cap last night in anticipation of a parts arrival tomorrow. The 60/40/40 measures 46/27/33 so it's a bit weak BUT is it too weak to mess op the reverb?
See the pic; the auction amp doesn't have that wire there; it's either grounded on the nearby terminal strip or it's not necessary and just not there.Archer993 said:What floppy bare wire?
Archer993 said:Think of it this way; you have Darryl and I ... a couple of <ahem> older Americans ... over on the sidelines ... in our pleated skirts, white tennies, ankle-high socks, varsity sweaters, and pom-poms cheering you on. Okay ... you might get sick looking at us ... but we're cheering like crazy.
That image alone, of older Americans on the sidelines, in female attire, will sustain me throughout this project.
Thank You... :lol:
470 ohms 1/2 watt. It's the screen dropping resistor. It's the only 47-anything resistor on the reverb amp. Confirm that it's connected at one end to the 220K resistor and to pin 7 of the 6BM8 at the other. The gold band indicates 1% ... it's a precision resistor to keep the screen voltage from fluctuating. You might consider a 1 watt replacement.Archer993 said:Does anyone know what this value should be? Thanks.
capnjuan said:470 ohms 1/2 watt. It's the screen dropping resistor. It's the only 47-anything resistor on the reverb amp. Confirm that it's connected at one end to the 220K resistor and to pin 7 of the 6BM8 at the other. The gold band indicates 1% ... it's a precision resistor to keep the screen voltage from fluctuating. You might consider a 1 watt replacement.Archer993 said:Does anyone know what this value should be? Thanks.