Obviously, we have differing opinions on Bigsbys. By your own admission, you have to practically jump through hoops to get them to function properly; use erasers, push out pins, alter and lube nuts, get locking tuners. Why bother?
OP, this is another case of us telling you what to do, when all that matters is what YOU think. If you find a Bigsby-equipped Starfire that works for you, buy it, by all means.
Nope. I don't use the eraser trick. I don't need to, but it's helpful if you have fine motor skill issues, i.e. arthritis, carpal tunnel, things like that. Attention to the nut slots and a luthier's knots take care of most tuning issues.
If you want to divebomb from pitch to slack, and back again, go the graphite nut/locking tuners route. Lockers actually make stringing a Bigs easier. Once you get the ball end of the string through the bar/on the post, you hold tension on the string, run it through the tuner, and lock the string. Normally, you have to put a little tension on the string, while you wind up the post, but locking tuners take almost no time when you are restringing the guitar.
Most people (Brian Seltzer and Horton Heat notwithstanding) don't have lockers on their guitars, but, if you decide to change the tuners, just pay the extra fifteen bucks.
As I've mentioned in the past, my blue sparkle DeArmond M-75T had the full nine yards applied to it and it works seamlessly during whammy work. You don't have to do this to your guitar to use a Bigsby successfully, I did as a science experiment. I just mentioned all that stuff, so the op can have options.
I would second a Starfire lV-Vl. If you just want to bend the pee out of notes, get one with the stop tailpiece. If you want that atmospheric waver that a trem gives you, buy the one with the Guildsby. I would just smooth out the nut slots or get a luthier to do it.
Every guitar has it's quirks.