Need some expert advice..........F47M for a 70 Martin D18?

Cheab

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I advertised my 1970 Martin D18 on Craigslist about 2 months ago and said I'd trade for a Guild F412 or D55 instead of cash. (Not a Martin fan and don't like the tone) So this morning a guy offered to trade me a Guild F47M (burst finish) that looks beautiful. The Martin needs a reset so I'm guessing that's about 300 - 400. On the surface this seems like a good trade to me. Not that I'm biased towards Guilds or anything *cough cough* but I really like the look of the F47 and the videos I've seen online, the tone is great.

So...… what do the experts say???? I don't know much about the F47s and I'm not sure what year it is. I'll get that info this evening but what do you all think?

Thanks in advance!
 

beecee

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I remember now I did have one. (In my D-60 post I said I never had a maple 6). Not sure why the heck I ever sold it. Lovely guitar, big block inlays, slightly smaller than the F-50 series jumbo body but it was lovely. Did everything I needed back then...hmm..why DID I sell it??

If it looks anything like this one here you'd be a fool to pass it by. http://www.sprucetreemusic.com/product/guild-f-47m/

Just make sure it is not a F-47M CE (would have electronics in bass side of guitar).
 

Cheab

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Looks exactly like that one. I hope it goes through, maybe there will be another NGD post soon! Thanks all
 
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amnicon

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I've never played a D18, but I played a F47 in a store a while back and was completely blown away. I kept stopping playing and looking at it again and again thinking " How does this little thing make all that noise??"
 

adorshki

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I think it is a lot like the F48 but maple. but not 100% sure, someone be around soon to confirm or correct:
Just to keep you on your toes, F48's were 17" lower bouts, essentially a 'hog-bodied F50.
All F47s were derived from basic 16" lower bout F40 outline, the original was a flat-back 'hog body and a little shallower than the maple archback F40 it replaced for a few years.
Went away again for few years from early '70's to early '80's and then revived as Guild's first dedicated cutaway a/e, the F45ce, which yielded several variants in body woods and arched/flatback versions, and eventually morphed back into the F47ce/F47Mce/F47Rce in late '90's Westerly.

I remember now I did have one. (In my D-60 post I said I never had a maple 6). Not sure why the heck I ever sold it. Lovely guitar, big block inlays, slightly smaller than the F-50 series jumbo body but it was lovely. Did everything I needed back then...hmm..why DID I sell it??
If it looks anything like this one here you'd be a fool to pass it by. http://www.sprucetreemusic.com/product/guild-f-47m/
That's gonna be a Tacoma or NH era F47 note those have ADI tops which will aid in slaying Martin dreadnoughts.
About 99% certain open tuners on that one make it a New Hartford, think Tacoma still had closed machines until the end ('08).
New Hartfords listed for around $3500 IIRC.
Saw a VVG Tacoma sold for $1300.00 4 years ago.
Just make sure it is not a F-47M CE (would have electronics in bass side of guitar).
Beecee why in the world would you think an F47Mce (Maple cutaway electric) is something to avoid?
Is it the barn door for the Fishman?
OK, if that's the case, can't argue with personal preference and admittedly I'm influenced by its presence in my F65ce which is 95% similar to an F47Mce, being only a bit shallower and having an arched back and Venetian (round) cutaway compared to the later Tacoma and NH F47MC's. (Neither of which will have the barn door)
But gives up very little to both my dreads for volume and still out-sustains the D40. Was even louder for awhile until the D40 finally opened up.
 
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It sounds like a good deal. Martin had a lot of quality problems in the early seventies, so the neck reset is no surprise. Some of them even had the bridges in the wrong place! There were a lot of other issues, too. I recently sold a '71 D-28 for about $1,800 and was glad to get it.

So if you like maple, I think you're there.
 
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. . . Beecee why in the world would you think an F47Mce (Maple cutaway electric) is something to avoid? . . .
Don't know about Beecee, but I'd cross the street to avoid it! I don't like maple, don't like cutaways, and don't like a bunch of gadgets to fool with. Give me a plain old folk guitar any day!
 

Cheab

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It’s not a cutaway and looks exactly like the one in the link above. Getting the label picture tonight and more pics. Probably trade Monday night. He said the back had a ridiculous flamed maple. (I’m not into that as much as I am a good sounding guitar). I’m curious of the year and where it was made. Thanks for the great advice, I just got my Guild Guitar book by Hans so I can be a little more knowledgeable on the older stuff.

Is there a similar book for post 77 Guilds out there? It amazes me how much you all know about Guilds.
 

Cheab

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Just to keep you on your toes, F48's were 17" lower bouts, essentially a 'hog-bodied F50.
All F47s were derived from basic 16" lower bout F40 outline, the original was a flat-back 'hog body and a little shallower than the maple archback F40 it replaced for a few years.
Went away again for few years from early '70's to early '80's and then revived as Guild's first dedicated cutaway a/e, the F45ce, which yielded several variants in body woods and arched/flatback versions, and eventually morphed back into the F47ce/F47Mce/F47Rce in late '90's Westerly.



That's gonna be a Tacoma or NH era F47 note those have ADI tops which will aid in slaying Martin dreadnoughts.
About 99% certain open tuners on that one make it a New Hartford, think Tacoma still had closed machines until the end ('08).
New Hartfords listed for around $3500 IIRC.
Saw a VVG Tacoma sold for $1300.00 4 years ago.

.
What’s an ADI top?
 

dapmdave

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If I preferred Guilds over Martins, I would probably do that swap. Assuming no issues with the Guild, of course. But let your ears be the judge.

Chances are good that the reset on the D-18 would cost more than you are thinking.
 

dreadnut

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Go for it, that flamed maple is a thing of beauty and you won't be disappointed with the tone either.
 

davismanLV

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When Al refers to an ADI top, he's talking about the type of spruce used. Most tops are typically Sitka Spruce, but sometimes Adirondack Spruce is used as well. It's a bit stiffer and takes a bit longer to "break in" or "open up" with playing time, but it tends to be louder than Sitka and is popular in bluegrass instruments where they compete with banjos. Adirondack is in the Red Spruce family. Basically, just a different type of spruce.
 

Coop47

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If given the opportunity, I'll always trade away something I don't really love and needs a repair for something that I'll like more and doesn't need a repair. Good luck!
 
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Too many possible variables to be even halfway certain without having the specific instrument in hand, but about ten years back I spent a pleasant music-store half-hour with a maple F-47 that I would have happily bought if I hadn't been a half-continent away from home (and my other dozen or more guitars). It must have been from the Tacoma factory, and it played well and had a very good voice. (As was the case with pretty much all the Tacomas I tried out.)

Of course, the usual buying protocols apply: you need to check it all over for flaws (with inspection mirror and flashlight), play it for as long as you can get away with, and ideally bring a playing friend so you can hear what it sounds like out in front.
 

tjmangum

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If you like the Maple sound, I'd go for it. I had a F47 Tacoma with a natural top that I sold a few years ago, not because I disliked it, but because I had too many guitars and didn't hardly touch it. Nice flat picker, I thought. If the D-18 needs reset and maybe bridge adjustment (got a 75 D-18) I'd say the Guild is the deal. Good luck!
 

Cheab

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It’s a Tacoma guitar. TK1300XX is the serial#. 2007. Beautiful flame on the back, open back tuners. I think red spruce top too.
 
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