Are you certain that it is lifting? I believe that Guild bridges typically have a bit of "relief" around the outer edge, because Guild bridges are installed so that they slightly overlap the finished soundboard.
In Westerly at least, it's true that the bridges were installed after the tops were finished but the bridges were intended to be fully glued, no gap should be measurable.
What happens is that typically there was an area of overlap of the bridge edges on the finish, and the hideglue (bridge)-to-finish bond is stronger than the finish-to-top bond so the glue can pull up the finish under tension.
I've got it on my F65ce and I plan to finally get the bridge re-set this year.
It's still a form of lift and some small amount of tone is lost, was well as a negative effect on geometry.
I don't recall hearing about this problem in Coronas or Tacomas, suggesting they did something to remedy it, or maybe were simply more careful when gluing bridges.
In New Hartford they
did in fact counter-sink the tops a small bit to accept a mating block machined on the bridges, to ensure a good secure glue joint without the glue-to-finish bond or " glue squeeze-out issues" when assembling. That may be the" relief" you were thinking of?
Still, I don't think there should be a measurable gap on those tops either, or at least too tight to be able to slide a sheet of paper under the edge.
As for an easy way out, an alternative if it is not to bad is the Bridge Doctor. They are inexpensive, easy to install, and do work well. The downside is that you have to drill a hole through the bridge and top which gets covered with a MOP dot but will diminish the resale value a bit. But not as much as an ugly tear-out repair.
Bridge Doctor's intended to address bellying in front of the bridge, not close the gap created by lifting.
Unless the bridge's properly glued, it can still be leaning forward and thus so can the saddle, effectively lowering action and affecting intonation.