JLP Bridge Doctor.....

[lonesome picker]

.....anybody ever here of one of these? My local repair guy says he's put several of these in Martins, Gibbos, Guilds, etc. This gizmo goes inside and pulls a bellied top back where it belongs, flattens the bridge again and makes an old axe playable again without resulting to the dreaded "Neck Reset". He assures me it has no effect on tone and in most cases actually increases volume and projection.

Any comments?

My beloved, but unplayable F112 is being considered for such an operation.

 

[dklsplace]

I can't comment on them from experience. I've heard of them but haven't seen one installed.

My $.02? I would probably only consider one in the case of a fairly severe bellying that doesn't respond to some time with very little tension & humidification.

 

[Frosty]

..... dreaded "Neck Reset".... Any comments?
.

Neck resets are done all the time and there should be no "dread" if it's done by a competent repair person. Other than the cost - which varies considerably, in my experience of having had four done over the past 10 years. (I tend to take old guitars into my keep). Interestingly, one of the reset guitars was my '68 F-112.

No experience with the Bridge Doctor, but I suppose I would personally prefer to maintain an old, possible vintage, instrument the traditional way rather than modifying it with additional hardware.

My opinion, worth every penny you paid for it. :wink:

 

[john_kidder]

Breedlove installs the Bridge Doctor as original equipment - they swear up and down it makes their guitar louder and brighter from better top resonance.

 

[Mr. P ~]

I would never be convinced that is does not alter the tone.
I have to agree with my luthier, "fix the belly, don't crutch it with a neck reset".

I say it holds true of the Bridge Doctor as well.

 

[Metalman]

I was wondering when anybody was going to get around to discussing this.

Okay, guys, here is the best kept secret in the world of acoustic guitar after-market-modifications.

The JLD Bridge Doctor - does it improve the sound of your guitar? You bet it does.

I have one in each of my Guilds. It works!

The idea is that the unit enables contact from the bridge, directly to the end block of your guitar, and helps to transfer the vibrations from the bridge directly to that end block, and to the back and sides of the instrument.

I tried taking the unit out of my F-30R for comparison after having it in for a while, and me getting used to this great new sound. Removal took about 5 minutes, and after hearing it without it, couldn't wait to put it back in again!
More highs, more lows, more depth, more sustain, and just more of what the guitar already had. It really works!

There are two versions: one where you drill a small hole through the bridge, and there are no brass pins to deal with, or two: the one with the brass pins, and there are no holes to drill, absolutely no modifications to your guitar.

Now the only drawback is the fact that now I have this brass pin in the bridge, instead of the even row of Tusq pins. I do have the full set of brass pins, through which the strings pass. They work fine, but it's just there, and it is a tradeoff for such good sound.

I would not think of playing without this system in place. It really does work!

As far as fixing a bellied top, and a lifting neck, that I cannot atest to, for that was not my purpose in installing this system, for I did not have a problem along those lines.
I'm just speaking from a sound perspective. And from personal experience.

 

[john_kidder]

IThere are two versions: one where you drill a small hole through the bridge, and there are no brass pins to deal with, or two: the one with the brass pins, and there are no holes to drill, absolutely no modifications to your guitar.

Now the only drawback is the fact that now I have this brass pin in the bridge, instead of the even row of Tusq pins. I do have the full set of brass pins, through which the strings pass.

With the version that use the single screw, would it be possible to carve a small rosewood or ebony plug from the hole-yet-to-be, drill and countersink the screw enough to allow the plug to be replaced?

 

[Mr. P ~]

I would not think of playing without this system in place. It really does work!

As far as fixing a bellied top, and a lifting neck, that I cannot atest to, for that was not my purpose in installing this system, for I did not have a problem along those lines.
I'm just speaking from a sound perspective. And from personal experience.

So you installed it strictly to improve the acoustic tone?

Obviously you are happy with it, so I guess I need to research it more. Maybe I have not fully understood the mechanics of it yet.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Metalman]

IThere are two versions: one where you drill a small hole through the bridge, and there are no brass pins to deal with, or two: the one with the brass pins, and there are no holes to drill, absolutely no modifications to your guitar.

Now the only drawback is the fact that now I have this brass pin in the bridge, instead of the even row of Tusq pins. I do have the full set of brass pins, through which the strings pass.

With the version that use the single screw, would it be possible to carve a small rosewood or ebony plug from the hole-yet-to-be, drill and countersink the screw enough to allow the plug to be replaced?

John,

Let me delve a bit further to clear up a misunderstanding.

There is no "single screw"; I just didn't put them all on one of my guitars yet.

With the version without the brass pins, they give you the plug that goes in the hole that you drill. You drill (very, very carefully) a clearance hole, a 3/32" I believe (not sure, haven't done it), and then by hand only (!) a countersunk 1/4" hole just deep enough, about 1/8" deep for the little plug they give you. Then it either holds its self in by pressure, or with a little glue. This way, there are no brass pins, you can use what ever bone, ivory, or Tusq pins you have been using, and the device works the same.

With the brass pins, you are supposed to use all 6 - only one (for the 'G" string) is used to hold the bridge doctor in place, the others are there just so's to keep continuity.

I don't know if the brass pins contribute any to the overall sound quality. It does, however, make it difficult to change strings in a pinch. The strings pass through the head of the screw, they don't go under the bridge. And there is not as much of a break angle with the brass pins. Some may say that can have an effect on the sound of the guitar.

But I think that the benefit derived from having the system in place, doing what it does (connecting the bridge plate directly to the end block) far outweighs the effect, if any, of brass pins as opposed to the standard.

The best thing is to go on their web site for more detailed info. I tried but couldn't find their own site. They do have one, just couldn't find it.

Here is some info from Stew-Mac.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... octor.html

Metalman

 

[john_kidder]

Thanks - I'm tempted to try one out - I've actually heard only good things about the resulting sound, although many, like me, have an innate resistance to adding things to/drilling holes in their guitars.

 

[Metalman]

Thanks - I'm tempted to try one out - I've actually heard only good things about the resulting sound, although many, like me, have an innate resistance to adding things to/drilling holes in their guitars.

John,

The last thing I wanted to do is to drill a hole in my Guild.
No, that is why I went with the brass pin version. No holes, no modifications that can't be reversed.

The unit comes out by removing the strings and getting them out of the way, then reaching in underneath the bridge plate with the left hand, holding secure the wooden block into which the threaded portion of the brass pin is screwed. I then insert a small pin such as the shank of a jewler's screwdriver through the hole in the top head of the pin, and turning counter-clock-wise until the pin comes lose. Once that pin screws free, the entire unit comes right out through the sound hole.
Put the original bridge pin back to replace that brass pin, and you are back to square one. Takes about 5 minutes.

 

[Metalman]

Metalman/John K:

I think I have it; the screw is driven from inside the body of the guitar up into the bottom of the bridge as opposed to from the outside and down through the bridge to the block inside the guitar.

Can you confirm metalman?

This is why I copied off the guy next to me in 12th-grade physics...

No, no, no . . .that's not it at all. :wink: What you said is "as opposed to" is the right way! From the top, down through the underside of the saddle.

Should have paid more attention in high school. I think your friend didn't get it either . . .

Okay, go to the web site; they have a picture of the whole thing. It's simpler than it sounds.

 

[GardMan]

he link the the JLD website:

http://www.jldguitar.net/

Includes installation instructions and diagrams. The way I read it, in the "vintage pin" version, one of the brass bridge pins is threaded, and serves as the anchor for the bridge doctor underneath. In the other version, a pearl dot hides the screwhead in the bridge.

 

[Metalman]

he link the the JLD website:

http://www.jldguitar.net/

Includes installation instructions and diagrams. The way I read it, in the "vintage pin" version, one of the brass bridge pins is threaded, and serves as the anchor for the bridge doctor underneath. In the other version, a pearl dot hides the screwhead in the bridge.

dot "net"! that's why I couldn't find the web site. Thanks!

 

[GardMan]

Once again, I prove that I should proof my posts. Here's the link to the JLD website:

http://www.jldguitar.net/

 

[Metalman]

he link the the JLD website:

http://www.jldguitar.net/

Includes installation instructions and diagrams. The way I read it, in the "vintage pin" version, one of the brass bridge pins is threaded, and serves as the anchor for the bridge doctor underneath. In the other version, a pearl dot hides the screwhead in the bridge.

Gardman,

Actually, all of the brass pins are threaded. The ones that are not holding the block in place protrude through the bridge and are held in place by a simple lock washer and nut. that's all.
And you can use almost all of the brass pins in any place on the bridge, except that the holes for the strings do vary in diameter, for the different gauges of strings.
The reason they give you two options, is that the seconde version, where you have to drill a hole, and no brass pins are used, first of all the brass pins add to the cost.
Secondly, that version (non-brass pins) is actually better, I think, cause you can still make use of those nice Tusq pins you bought. It would only be used on a guitar that you don't mind putting that hole in, such as a beater that has lost its vintage appeal, or a guitar you just KNOW you ain't ever going to sell!
I know a bunch of guitar repairmen and players that would probably choke you if you tried to drill a hole in a Martin, or an old Guild.
That's why we have a choice . . .

 

[GardMan]

Yep, now I remember reading that the other pins are also threaded, and held in place by nuts/washers.

I think I'd want to hear a "before" and "after" before I considered doing it just for tone... comparing to the same instrument with brass/bronze bridge pins and no "doctor."

On the other hand, it's another affordable alternative for rehabilitating an instrument...

 

[Mr. P ~]

Ok guys, I found a review (if it is already listed I am sorry) from a guy that had installed a Bridge Doctor in his 1978 Guild F-512. He sounds convincing.

Both of my Guilds have tops that are "as flat as a bookkeepers a$$", to quote Paul Klipsch, so I don't need one from that perspective.

http://www.bobandbonnie.com/out_of_my_mind/jld_review.html

 

[doc]

Metalman and rest this appears to be JLD guitar research's site

http://www.jldguitar.net/


This is the company of origin for the bridge doctor. For the money, the physics makes sense, flat top, easier transfer of sound energy throughout resonating chamber, the guitar body, just like speaker dynamics, most likely better sound. This I am going to investigate some more and probably give it a shot. The money is about what it costs to get a tuneup on your guitar. If it doesn't work for you then ebay awaits your dissatisfaction. 8)

 

[doc]

Yea, I was gone and didn't check that an earlier poster put up the address already. Just look at it as another opportunity to visit the site. :? I wonder if my D-25 can use it as it doesn't have a flat back and is curved? I guess it would depend upon the height of the device. :?: