All I could get out my trussrod without being stupid on my F4CE is 1/2 turn from just seated.
I'm a believer that you should always back the nut out first to limber it up, then I back the nut almost all the way out and put a wee drop of machine oil on the thread, a tiny bit will migrate to the nut/washer interface and help it glide easier, less friction for more accurate feel.
I will not use anything other than a 1/4" nut driver, hand only.
Even then I have a bit too much relief, nothing to be done but just play it.
Going bigger darkens the guitar noticeably across the whole range.
Those guitars were designed for, spec'd and shipped with
extra lights (.010-.047). I wouldn't go heavier than standard lights at standard pitch.
I put standard lights on the F65ce early on, but realized a couple of years in that it was easier to play with the .010's. Then a couple of years later I discovered its slight bridge lift and never knew if it was because of having heavier-than-spec strings for the first couple of years or if it was shipped that way...
I
have strung it with "Custom light" .011-.052 PB's, tuned down a whole step, both for less top stress and to get a woodier tone, as Jedzep mentioned.
I'd expect a similar philosophy to work for NH F30's which were spec'd for lights, coated D'Addario 12-53's IIRC.
Wouldn't go thicker without tuning down at least 1/2 step.