Getting back to the NS X-350 ...

[cupric]

Very nice!!! Congratulations. Very sharp.

 

[GGJaguar]

Looks great, congrats! For some reason, I thought they were bright screaming fire engine red, but the candy apple red looks great.

 

[freddyfingers]

Looks great, congrats! For some reason, I thought they were bright screaming fire engine red, but the candy apple red looks great.

I have seen some photos where it seems brighter, and i am not a good photographer, but its a deeper red , its beefy if that makes sense. I wouldn’t call it a wine or burgundy, but a nice hotrod red color.

 

[Longnose Gar]

Congrats! I've inquired with Cordoba if they can sell me a compensated rosewood or ebony bridge in case I want to replace the Bigsby with a harp tailpiece. Oddly, they don't sell those bridges on their website. I'd be curious if you remove the factory bridge and plop on the bridge from your A-150 if it fits snugly.

 

[Default]

I would go with Stew-Mac or any other luthier supply sources then. They aren't difficult to find and you could try ebony too.

 

[freddyfingers]

Congrats! I've inquired with Cordoba if they can sell me a compensated rosewood or ebony bridge in case I want to replace the Bigsby with a harp tailpiece. Oddly, they don't sell those bridges on their website. I'd be curious if you remove the factory bridge and plop on the bridge from your A-150 if it fits snugly.

I can tell you that a Compton bridge i had made for my gretsch fits right on. The spacing of the posts is 73.1mm and the posts them selves are 4mm. String spacing is 2 inches. You can use the bridge that comes with it with a tail picee, or it’s probably not hard to find a ebony one that fits. The solid metal ones like Compton and tru arc give a bit more sustain, and have a closer curvature to the fret board. They rattles less as they are solid. If your not into really low to the fret board E strings, than the standards work Fine. But i could hear a difference with the one i put on.

 

[freddyfingers]

Final, though for the night. This guitar needs 11’s if not 12’s. when i played a lot of electric sets years back, i used 10’s. They feel like rubber bands compared to 12’s. I currently have 11’s on it, may go to 12, but i can tell you the way the action is, without filing down some high frets, 10’s would make this guitar fly. I just dont know how well they would tweak these pickups.

I’m a dead head by nature. Most of the music i play with my band is not anything like that, we play Americana originals and such. But i am always chasing the Garcia sound. He was a big fan of the middle pickup, lots of treble and less bass. I have played many guitars trying to get towards this sound. A strat by itself can come close with a blaster hooked up, which i have, but this X350 with just the middle pickup and maybe a tad of the bridge nails the sound. I just use a fender twin tonemaster , a touch of reverb and off i went. Clean, but with a slight bite due to the nature of these pickups. Played for a few hours just now and I couldn’t get it out of my head. On the other hand, i normally play acoustic gigs. I use a fender acoustasonic strat. It weighs just under 4 pounds. Compared to that, this is an anchor. Big, beefy, and weighty. No neck dive. Now to find and electric band thats immune to the virus.

 

[Longnose Gar]

I can tell you that a Compton bridge i had made for my gretsch fits right on. The spacing of the posts is 73.1mm and the posts them selves are 4mm. String spacing is 2 inches. You can use the bridge that comes with it with a tail picee, or it’s probably not hard to find a ebony one that fits. The solid metal ones like Compton and tru arc give a bit more sustain, and have a closer curvature to the fret board. They rattles less as they are solid. If your not into really low to the fret board E strings, than the standards work Fine. But i could hear a difference with the one i put on.

Thanks for checking that out. I was thinking of removing the bridge and posts entirely and using a floating wood bridge. I'm worried that putting a compensated bridge on the posts won't allow intonation adjustment, but maybe it will be fine. Really, the guitar sounds great as it is and I just need to get the 15th fret filed so I can lower the action....

 

[freddyfingers]

Thanks for checking that out. I was thinking of removing the bridge and posts entirely and using a floating wood bridge. I'm worried that putting a compensated bridge on the posts won't allow intonation adjustment, but maybe it will be fine. Really, the guitar sounds great as it is and I just need to get the 15th fret filed so I can lower the action....

Same here. Except its a few frets up there. I am considering investing in files and learning myself.

 

[Longnose Gar]

Another little gaffe on this guitar is that the middle PUP volume knob is labeled as Tone. I guess everything is tone....

 

[freddyfingers]

Another little gaffe on this guitar is that the middle PUP volume knob is labeled as Tone. I guess everything is tone....

I haven’t check that out. Need my old person glass’s for that.

 

[freddyfingers]

I haven’t check that out. Need my old person glass’s for that.

I checked on mine, it says volume. Maybe yours is one of those custom one offs worth millions.

 

[freddyfingers]

An update. I couldn’t get rid of the buzz on the low E string, so I took it to a local pro. Turns out that the fret board is a little low from the 6th fret to the 17th, on the low E side. High E side and most other strings the fretboard is fine. To fix it requires removal of frets, sanding the fret board and frets replaced. I am fortunate that the company i got it from has another and is willing and able to replace it. So i sit and wait for air way bills and shipping. But look forward to playin this with the action i am used to.

 

[Longnose Gar]

I checked on mine, it says volume. Maybe yours is one of those custom one offs worth millions.

I’ll start the bidding at $1,499.

 

[Longnose Gar]

An update. I couldn’t get rid of the buzz on the low E string, so I took it to a local pro. Turns out that the fret board is a little low from the 6th fret to the 17th, on the low E side. High E side and most other strings the fretboard is fine. To fix it requires removal of frets, sanding the fret board and frets replaced. I am fortunate that the company i got it from has another and is willing and able to replace it. So i sit and wait for air way bills and shipping. But look forward to playin this with the action i am used to.

I hope that’s not the case with mine as my luthier was 6 weeks out and I bought it from GC with a coupon.

 

[freddyfingers]

Coupons are good. I think they are decent guitars, but not 1499 decent. I have learned to think down the road in xcxase i ever need to sell one, how much loss if any.

 

[freddyfingers]

Now i wait then again. The one i had is on its ways back, the other ships out today.

 

[freddyfingers]

Wait until next week it seems.

 

[freddyfingers]

Wait wait wait. Apparently they ordered the metal rod thingy to see if the replacement suffers from the same fret board drop. either that or checking to see if the one i returned does indeed have that issue.

 

[SFIV1967]

Another little gaffe on this guitar is that the middle PUP volume knob is labeled as Tone. I guess everything is tone....

Now that's funny! But usually on a two pickup guitar it would be a tone knob in that position. And a "Master Tone" is also something special...

Ralf