Getting back on the horse.

[GAD]

It's been around for a long time and it wasn't dialed in until I stopped working. So now, it's another tool in the quiver.



It was a gift. Funny, it was too little adhesion that was the issue before, and it's far too much adhesion.

It could be as simple as the temp being too high so it’s coming out too liquid on the first layers.

One of the things I struggled with when learning was that every brand has different temp zones. This variation is why I stick to one brand where possible.

Sometimes even a different color from the same brand is different. When I was using the Ultimaker I had it completely dialed in using their filament which is stupid expensive (which is why I switched to Matterhackers). Except for the blue. The blue underextruded like crazy causing prints to fail. The solution was raising the temp 10 degrees for the first three layers and five for the rest and then it worked beautifully, but only for the blue.

 

[jp]

Yes, it's a coated steel plate, but this is a sample pack that I got for Christmas, and it acts like it's superglued to the build surface.

In the advanced composites industry, we had a number of release agents we used to prep molds, allowing components to pop off easily after forming.

Is there a common release agent used with 3D printing? IIRC I read somewhere that people replace their beds with a glass sheet prepped with hair spray. Maybe a makers forum has some tips about what to use?

 

[Default]

In the advanced composites industry, we had a number of release agents we used to prep molds, allowing components to pop off easily after forming.

Is there a common release agent used with 3D printing? IIRC I read somewhere that people replace their beds with a glass sheet prepped with hair spray. Maybe a makers forum has some tips about what to use?

Usually, the issue is getting the print to stick, hence the hairspray and gluestick that gets used a lot. It's this one specific color combo that is being difficult.
I could use a new build plate, because this one is beat up. I could probably get a glass bed, which would definitely improve the effects box , but for some things a resin printer would be better.

For the injection molder, vegetable oil is supposed to work well, but that project is begging for attention too.

 

[GAD]

As someone who printed with a glass bed for years, you don't want a glass bed.

Glass is great because it's "always flat" but the quality of the finish on a glass bed is never as good as it is is from the spring steel beds on a Prusa. Additionally, when you get an over-adhesion problem like the one shown above and you have to use a spatula to get the part off, you'll end up putting micro-chips in the glass. These micro-chips cause heat to be distributed improperly and from that point on you'll get curling of the part where the micro-chip is. The only solution at this point is to replace the glass bed.

I had this on my Ultimaker and it took me months to figure out what the problem was, and the only way I figured it out was by looking at the problem area with a loupe. Going through this taught me to always wait for the part to cool before trying to remove it. Sometimes I even manage to do that.

 

[Default]

Thanks for the tip. I'll order a new sheet.

Took the Whipped Llama/TubeSound fuzz over to my buddy's house, along with a silicon fuzzface, and it was initially pretty frustrating. I have to burn some time on the vast number of leds I have, and figure out what the power draw is. Some of them draw too much power to use battery power, and there are no markings, just physical size to go by. Not like I have much on my plate, but an annoyance.

The plastic enclosures are a mixed bag. The pots I bought do not have enough threads to thread on the nut on the sturdy boxes, and the others are too flimsy, even for home use. Had a lot of crackling and intermittent contacts that turned out to be the jacks. If you are using a plastic shell and foil shield, you have to really crank down on those suckered, otherwise frustration rears it's head.

Once that was taken care of, they both sounded great.

 

[Default]

So I ordered some pcbs. One is for a Marshall Guv'nor, which is one of the pedals that Justin Hayward (Moody Blues) used later in his career. What he first used was a Marshall fuzz reverb. It was made possibly, by Sola Sound? That is one I want to build, once I'm sure what it actually was. The next one is a Ross phaser, and I bought two that are the smaller Mutrons. I think it might have cost <=$20. And then, I look at the cost of hobbyist powder coating equipment, and realize that I really just want to live in a fabrication shop.

 

[Rocky]

The next one is a Ross phaser

Be aware there are two* distinctly different "Ross" Phaser circuits. The early version, with an "Intensity" knob is like an MXR phaser with more control. The "Recycle" versions are their own separate thing, and get this funny "helicopter" sound when you turn the speed up

*Four really, but not a lot of people are aware of the stuff made in Colorado.

 

[Default]

No specified version, but it should be interesting. I've decided to socket ics ans transistors, because it's possible that some of the ones I bought may be counterfeit. I'll find out when my component checker shows up. Now that I'm somewhat up to speed, I'll just order from Mouser or Digikey.

 

[Default]

Got back from the kids apartment too late to get to any projects. I'm pretty sure I ordered a resistor kit, but I can't locate it. I need some 1.8k, 22k and 27k resistors to finish the boards, and I can't find them.
I did check my paint stock for the aluminum enclosures and I have gloss white, gloss black, and orange parking lot striping paint.

 

[GAD]

So I ordered some pcbs. One is for a Marshall Guv'nor, which is one of the pedals that Justin Hayward (Moody Blues) used later in his career. What he first used was a Marshall fuzz reverb. It was made possibly, by Sola Sound? That is one I want to build, once I'm sure what it actually was. The next one is a Ross phaser, and I bought two that are the smaller Mutrons. I think it might have cost <=$20. And then, I look at the cost of hobbyist powder coating equipment, and realize that I really just want to live in a fabrication shop.

I was whining to a friend of mine that I wanted a resin printer but I refuse to have a resin printer, so he said, "build an exhaust system and put it in the garage", to which i replied, "If I'm building an exhaust system then I'm getting a big laser cutter!"

He said, "You should just build your own dedicated maker space building since you're never going to stop."

Hmm...

 

[Default]

I have a 12x20 concrete pad in the backyard.

 

[GAD]

I have a 12x20 concrete pad in the backyard.

I told my wife about the maker space. She said, “what about the rooftop observatory you talked about?”

That became, “maybe I’ll make a bigger structure and put the workshop on the roof, too.”

That then turned into, “not if it interferes with my rooftop pool with the swim-up bar!”

 

[Default]

More fun with the printer for a friend's grandaughter.

 

[Default]

Did you ever have those projects that are missing the one thing you can't source locally? I'm putting together a SansAmp clone, and the switch it requires is 'not' what it is calling for on the bom. I have two that were in a switch grab bag, but it needs three. Also, could you address this in the build docs? Cause I'm not the only one puzzled.

 

[GAD]

Did you ever have those projects that are missing the one thing you can't source locally? I'm putting together a SansAmp clone, and the switch it requires is 'not' what it is calling for on the bom. I have two that were in a switch grab bag, but it needs three. Also, could you address this in the build docs? Cause I'm not the only one puzzled.

Oh Don’t get me started. Imagine someone without experience trying to build something like that. At least with some experience you can probably figure out how to make it work.

 

[Default]

The pig is I have two, which I got in a grab bag. I need three. Also doing a veroboard of a "Brian May in a box" when $11 gets me a pcb and instant gratification. I feel like it would be cheating to use someone's effort. Considering that my favorite pedal is a direct copy of part of a SansAmp, I may be carrying personal growth a bit too far. Considering that many parts are only available in surface mount, maybe I shouldn't be too ashamed of using a pre made circuit board.

 

[Default]

Also, Goslings Rum is particularly awesome.

 

[Default]

And the part is called a "band switch". So I'm going to stagger off to buy several because "you never know when you'll need some".

 

[Rocky]

Also, Goslings Rum is particularly awesome.

In small quantities. Like Havana Club 7 year.

I prefer HC 3 year if I can find it. Flavorful, but less heavy.

 

[Default]

It's very smooth. And while I don't usually indulge, I have a few personal victories to celebrate this week, which includes helping my boys move out of an apartment and in to a home. It does make using a soldering iron problematic though.