G.A.S. Gear Acquisition Syndrome

tmessenger

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This story really begins about 30 years ago when I was over at a friend's house just minding my own business when he asked if I'd like to see his Martin brownie. Well, I was all in for that so he pulls out his all-mahogany 1920's vintage 2-17. It was a beautifully carved & curved little lady that smelled of solidarity and prohibition with a lovely soft warm voice, so delicious. Fast forward to sometime around 2017 and again I was just minding my own business poking around on Reverb when I came across this strange to me Guild brownie. A Mark I folk style classical, hmm now that's a unique guitar, US-made with all solid mahogany tonewoods I was more than intrigued. I realize this Mark was the bottom feeder of the Guild line but still it seemed under-loved with an easy entry point. Try any 60's Martin on for size and see how it fits in your wallet.

The deal, like every vintage guitar buyer out there I really wanted to get a good survivor without major structural issues, played in not played out. And here's the conundrum, how to make that happen sight unseen. Buying a vintage acoustic off of the bay is a crapshoot at best but sometimes you just have to step up to the table. No one wants a vintage acoustics for sale by an over-caffeinated owner, "Yeah it needs a little work but we stored it in the corner of the shower so it's nice and clean". It's also best to try and avoid a guitar that's been treated by the not so talented repair guy. I bought an early 60's Gibson B25 years ago (cheap) that had been taken to one of these hack-men and oh my I couldn't believe my eyes, I wouldn't let this guy chop my firewood let alone work on a guitar. Note: the B25 had a happy ending after much of my labor, including removing the back and the 3/4" thick maple bridge plate he had glued in. It's being played and enjoyed by a friend to this day. So anyway I spied a 60's vintage MKI on the bay that was claimed to be structurally sound, with no breaks, cracks, repairs, and etc. The ad had good photos that showed what could possibly be a good one so I decided to throw down my chips and let'em roll baby.

Conception, what was going on in the minds of those Guild factory craftsmen in 1965 when this Mark was crafted? The American consciousness was being inundated with lots of new concepts back then, hippies, free love, Twiggy, war protest, on and on. Dylan was Like a Rolling Stone, the Rolling Stones can't get no satisfaction but James Brown got a brand new bag. The Beatles got a ticket to ride when they played the Shea and set a world record for the most hysterically exuberant teenyboppers in one place at any one time. Pop was here to stay while LBJ ramps it up and Joan Baez screamed stop in perfect pitch. Oh yeah this '65 Mark should be dripping with 1960s good vibrations, how could it be any other way?

Arrival and survey, time to put on the detective shoes and find out if I'm the muffin man or a kingmaker. I'm pleased to report that structurally the Mark I is right on, really clean and tidy inside the body. The neck has no forward bow with just the right amount of relief at the 6th fret and the neck set is at or very close to the factory spec IMO (photo). The tuning machines have light wear and needed to be disassembled, polished, and lubed also the plastic peg barrels were cracked so I have given them some plastic epoxy fill. There is was a statistically significant disproportionate ratio of small dings and dents to guitar usage (practice saying that a few times before you try to use it in a conversation) on the sides, edges, flat surfaces, everywhere. Also, there are marks on the headstock that show something had been wired on. The original case that it came in is nearly perfect so it was used for storage, it never or rarely traveled in that case. I'm speculating this was a school music classroom guitar it would explain all the small dings with the headstock having an inventory number tag wired to it.

This is my first Guild and I didn't know what to expect. There's not a lot of info about the Mark I on the net other than players that have them seem to like'em. After doing a major clean/touch up on this one and carefully inspected it, including using my extendable mirror and flashlight through the soundhole I've found a very well-crafted and finished guitar. It would seem that Guild met their price point through lack of adornments and not by cutting material quality or assembly detail. I have some new saddle blanks on the way and am looking forward to finishing her up.

End...
neck set.jpg
top bracing.jpg
tuners.jpg
g in case.jpg
 
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cupric

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Inexpensive doesn't equate to cheap. Many of my favorite Guilds were the overlooked less fancy models.
Enjoy your new guitar!
 

mavuser

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beautiful, these are sleeper mahogany top Guilds. and u may have just woke a couple monsters. def not at the bottom of the feeder chain. congrats and enjoy!
 

gjmalcyon

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That's what makes Guilds so much fun - often there is no direct correlation between the price paid and sound obtained.
 

tmessenger

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Out of curiosity, I looked up the price of a MKI in 1965 when this one was built, it was listed in the price sheet at $129.50 + 18.50 for the case. This works out to be about $1,080 + $155.40 in today's dollars.

tm
 

Guildedagain

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Welcome here, It's a GAS, GAS, GAS ;]]]

$1000 is the real world value, plus the fact that those woods aren't available anymore, plus the history...

"played in not played out" Great description.

Couple things in your favor, a) Guild built fantastic guitars, b) a classical is not usually on to get goofed around with, most are pretty clean.

A MkI is just devoid of any bling, not even binding it seems, and that look is really in right now with battered old M20's fetching crazy money, if you ask me, this is like buying a M20 on the cheap.

I like the look, didn't even realize these came with hog tops.

I better get my MKI now before they really take off ;]

Gorgeous guitar/case.

Funny you should mention saddle blanks, my one and only classical purchased at a Cosco parking lot for $40 from the mom who had bought it for her kid back in the 70's, a 1976 Alvarez with cedar top, had no saddle in it (for low action), that's how the played it with steel strings, also drilled & installed strap buttons and burned/branded his name thought the soundhole in HUGE capital letters, thankfully abbreviated.

So not every classical guitar got out of this time period unscathed, but most.

I made a saddle for it, removed the buttons and filled the hole with wood glue, perfect match.

Nothing plays Love Story or Les Jeux Interdis like a classical, nothing.
 

HeyMikey

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Congrats and welcome! I have to admit I know nothing about classical guitars, so am curious about the first pic. On a folk acoustic the neck angle you show would indicate a need for a neck reset. You say it seems close to factory specs, so is the desired neck angle and action different classical guitars?
 

tmessenger

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The action on a classical is set higher than a steel-stringed acoustic, the agreed height by most luthiers is 4mm on the base E and 3mm on the treble E. That said the classical luthier I've read says he sets the neck angle at around halfway up the bridge on a new build. My guitar with the saddle it came with is right on these numbers when pulled up to tension. I have about 2mm of extra saddle height I can drop down if need be, so all is good.

tm

Congrats and welcome! I have to admit I know nothing about classical guitars, so am curious about the first pic. On a folk acoustic the neck angle you show would indicate a need for a neck reset. You say it seems close to factory specs, so is the desired neck angle and action different classical guitars?
 

HeyMikey

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Thank you tm. I never knew that. I learned something new today!
 
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