FS/FT FS Price reduced - 1964 Guild MKV Classical guitar rosewood PROJECT not playable - probably needs new top

[F-412Spec]

For sale or possible trade, a 1964 Guild MKV Classical guitar. Rosewood headstock veneer, bridge, body binding, sides, and back. Spruce top. Ebony fretboard. Scale = about 648 mm. Nut width 2". Minimal playing wear (visible polishing but no measurable wear) on frets. This is a PROJECT. Not playable. The guitar needs extensive top repair, or a new top. Many top cracks (seven immediately visible cracks, two are widely separated). Lateral top warp under bridge (major). Rosette is partially missing.

Body exclusive of top is in good condition. Neck is in good condition. No tuners. Finish is original, in typical fair condition for its age.

$525 plus actual ground shipping to USA "lower 48" states. It will be shipped in a non-original case.

I might trade for some other interesting old project or instrument. Be glad to send more information, details, and pictures as requested.

 

[Westerly Wood]

why would it need a new top? is that top crack irreparable?

 

[D30Man]

Man this look like another candidate for flex seal!!! Kidding aside, that is a lovely instrument with some pretty good aesthetic mojo. I’m with WW. Couldn’t you cleat it or is it because it runs under the bridge? I’m not a luthier..

 

[geoguy]

Might be worthwhile to have a repair-person inspect that guitar before selling it.

Re-hydrating, properly re-attaching the bridge (after the guitar is re-hydrated), & cleating the cracks might be all it needs. Or maybe there is a detached brace that could be re-glued without dismantling the instrument.

Good luck with the sale!

 

[F-412Spec]

why would it need a new top? is that top crack irreparable?

I think the right luthier could repair the top, but it is major work and well outside of my currrent capabilities. Better to pass it on to someone who can make those decisions without someone else having already attempted the work. It has really nice solid rosewood, so it's probably well worth doing whatever work is specified.

 

[wileypickett]

That crack is pretty wide, and a difficult repair for several reasons, one of which is, as noted, that it goes under the bridge, so you'd have to first remove the bridge before starting any work.

Hydration at this point is not going to close that crack. A crack that wide is one that's likely been there for a good long time, and the problem with old cracks is that the edges distort making it difficult or impossible to realign them properly. (The time to repair a crack is as soon after it happens as possible, so it hasn't had time to distort, attract dirt and oils, absorb and release moisture, etc.)

After taking off the bridge, you'd need to clean the crack with an Xacto knife, removing all the loose pieces of splintered wood, which will further widen the crack, then chisel small pieces of cedar off a larger block, and glue them into the crack till everything is tight again.(Assuming cedar is what the top is made of -- it usually is on classical guitars.)

I'm not sure if it'd be best to cleat the crack before you clean it, or after the new bits of cedar have been glued in, but one or the other.

With a crack that wide, and long, there will inevitably be several braces that have come unglued and those will need to be repaired or replaced. Since the top will have widened by a few millimeters, this may involve completely removing the old braces and sanding off the old glue from them and from the underside of the top before regluing them.

After all that you'd want to relacquer the top (if lacquer is what was originally used) to keep the repair sealed and keep out moisture and dirt and oils.

Then the bridge will have to be reattached, and the guitar set up, etc.

Unless it's important to you to keep the original top, it may very well be easier to replace the top altogether.

Tom Jacobs could better advise you, and can likely repair the old top or replace it.

 

[Darryl Hattenhauer]

Instead of cutting away the insides of the crack, maybe it would be better to sandpaper the insides. Doing so would make the insides stick to each other better. You could just sand away high spots that don't fit together. It's the same principle with gluing a headstock back on. You want to fit as much of the splinters as possible back together.

 

[AcornHouse]

Instead of cutting away the insides of the crack, maybe it would be better to sandpaper the insides. Doing so would make the insides stick to each other better. You could just sand away high spots that don't fit together. It's the same principle with gluing a headstock back on. You want to fit as much of the splinters as possible back together.

Sanding a side that thin, you’re almost guaranteed to round it over, no matter how hard you try not to. Not a lot, but enough that you’re no longer dealing with a flat glueing surface. I’d use a spline.

 

[F-412Spec]

LOL - I guess I shoud have posted this over in the "repairs" section

 

[twocorgis]

LOL - I guess I shoud have posted this over in the "repairs" section

In all honesty, it's not a reasonable expectation to post a guitar for sale that needs this much work, and then be surprised when some of our members (a few of whom are expert luthiers themselves) opine on what might be necessary to get this guitar in some kind of playing order.

 

[fronobulax]

In all honesty, it's not a reasonable expectation to post a guitar for sale that needs this much work, and then be surprised when some of our members (a few of whom are expert luthiers themselves) opine on what might be necessary to get this guitar in some kind of playing order.

And you got lucky because the Moderator who obsesses over keeping FS threads clean and on topic got wrapped up in the quality of the discussion and forgot where it was taking place ;-)

But if this has moved from a FS to a How To Fix (first) thread I'll be glad to move it.

 

[wileypickett]

IMO 650 isn’t at all unreasonable for this guitar, even in its current state.

I hope someone rises to the challenge and takes on the repair.

Tempted myself. While I have a pretty fair idea what might be involved in fixing it, it’s complicated enough that I’d let a “real” luthier tackle it.

I’ve never played a Mark V, but I have a Mark IV — the best sounding nylon string guitar I’ve ever owned.

This one, properly refurbished, will be a monster, you bet!

 

[F-412Spec]

But if this has moved from a FS to a How To Fix (first) thread I'll be glad to move it.

It belongs here; please leave it here. It's for sale.

In all honesty, it's not a reasonable expectation to post a guitar for sale that needs this much work, and then be surprised when some of our members (a few of whom are expert luthiers themselves) opine on what might be necessary to get this guitar in some kind of playing order.

The remark was intended in good nature. I'm not surprised, just smiling about it. I'm applying the "Any publicity is good publicity" rule here.

This guitar, despite its need for major work, is in good enough condition to make a fun project or the basis for a "new" complete rebuild. Heck, I think just the 1960s rosewood back and side wood is in pretty good demand these days.

 

[D30Man]

Agreed. That axe has a nice mojo a la trigger. If I had the skills to pay the bills I’d be tempted.

 

[F-412Spec]

Still for sale...

 

[Doc Hanson]

Hey F-412Spec - I sent you a private message about this guitar. Let me know.

Regards - Doc

 

[F-412Spec]

Reply sent today.

 

[William]

For sale or possible trade, a 1964 Guild MKV Classical guitar. Rosewood headstock veneer, bridge, body binding, sides, and back. Spruce top. Ebony fretboard. Scale = about 648 mm. Nut width 2". Minimal playing wear (visible polishing but no measurable wear) on frets. This is a PROJECT. Not playable. The guitar needs extensive top repair, or a new top. Many top cracks (seven immediately visible cracks, two are widely separated). Lateral top warp under bridge (major). Rosette is partially missing.

Body exclusive of top is in good condition. Neck is in good condition. No tuners. Finish is original, in typical fair condition for its age.

$650 including all fees and shipping to USA "lower 48" states. It will be shipped in a non-original case.

I might trade for some other interesting old project or instrument. Be glad to send more information, details, and pictures as requested.

Hi is this still available?

 

[F-412Spec]

Hello William,

Yes, it is for sale.