Finish cracking on early 2000s Corona D55s

adorshki

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I agree. I have owned lacquer guitars for 30 years without a single crack.
One of the reasons I believe so strongly in storin' 'em in their cases. Only comin' up on 23 years with the D25 though. And as I mentioned, the D40's finish is definitely getting thinner as it ages, and I do believe it's improving the guitar's voice. I think the F65ce's finish is the thinnest of the bunch, and it's only showing the hint of that old center-seam hairline crack on the top. It's only ever been out of the house 2 or 3 times in its life.
 

beecee

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Finish checking adds character to everything!
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Andrew79

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I have several lacquer cracks mainly running from the bridge on my 2002 D50. I bought this last year and had been really played over the years and not really taken care of very well (I don't think the fretboard had ever been cleaned etc.) so I assume the cracks were due, in part, to poor storage but maybe I was wrong?


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adorshki

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I have several lacquer cracks mainly running from the bridge on my 2002 D50. I bought this last year and had been really played over the years and not really taken care of very well (I don't think the fretboard had ever been cleaned etc.) so I assume the cracks were due, in part, to poor storage but maybe I was wrong?


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i'd say the ones running along the grain lines were likely started by the underlying wood beginning to separate due excessive dryness. Combined with NCL's natural shrinkage as it ages, the cracks follow the path of least resistance along a grain line. The curved one by the 'guard looks like a more typical example of pressure or temp shock checking. In those cases the NCL behaves like glass, just like a windshield crack that wanders randomly.

RE poor storage, it could have had a contributing effect if the guitar was never cased (and Coronas came with cases as part of the package), and lived in a dry climate like the southwestern desert.

Keeping 'em cased slows down the outgassing aging which shrinks/makes the NCL thinner. UV from sunlight also degrades it but imparts a gradual ambering up of the NCL over time, too.

If you put my D25 ,which spent literally hundreds of hours outdoors, next to the D40 which has only been out of the house 4 or 5 times, the D25 looks like it actually has an amber finish, while the '40 which has virtually never been exposed to direct UV and spent much more of its life cased, is still almost as "white" as when it was new.

The '25 was always cased when not being played too, but it's showing the typical finish shrinkage that runs along the grain lines: the NCL gradually starts to conform to the texture of the high and low ridges. But no actual separation. The '40's just barely starting to show that shrinkage along the grain lines.

Note I've owned both of 'em since new so I know the complete histories of each one, making for a pretty good A/B comparison of finishes. Also the '40's finish was a LOT thicker than the '25's from the start. I'm also lucky enough to live in a place where the humidity is normally in the ideal 45-55% range almost all year.
 

Br1ck

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This can be purely the location where the instrument lives. Here in NorCal instruments have an easy life. Never exposed to temperature extremes or humidity changes of a radical nature, it is pretty rare to see either finish or wood cracks. But, the humidity has been !0% for the last few days, and for the first time in a decade, I humidified an instrument. The neck of my mandolin kept changing it's relief. I stuck a sponge in a baggie, poked a few holes, stuck it in my case, and overnight, problem was gone.
 

Budha

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My 1990 JF3012 did not have any finish cracks when I bought it a few months ago. Since I got it, it has lived in my music room with the temperature 72 -75 and the humidity at 45 - 55. It started developing finish cracks around the pick guard within a few weeks of me receiving it and continues to develop minor, at this point, finish cracks. I am fairly certain I bought it from the original owner who lived in another east coast state. I assume the change in the guitar's daily environment may have started the finish cracking. The finish checks really do not bother me. The checking just give the old guitar character.
 

gtrman100

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Humidifying is really important- I found out the hard way since moving to Nevada. My 1999 D-55 never had a problem. After being here for about 6 months, I opened the case to discover that the plastic piece at the end pin had cracked and separated, and the bridge is starting to lift at the rear.

I took it to Neil Smith (an awesome luthier) here in Las Vegas, and he repaired the end piece and said he'll take care of the bridge if it gets worse. Now, I have a room humidifier, and a sound hole humidifier on my acoustic guitars to prevent more damage.
 
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